My two cents would concentrate on one aspect of the lawn program: fertilizer. Then more fertilizer. Then more fertilizer. Which means a healthy dose of a big-first-number fertilzier in the fall, maybe two in the fall, and then a dose of Milorganite every thirty days, or even five weeks, during the summer. Maximize that nitrogen, just like a sod farm would, for this very important reason: Self-repairing. Damaged grass (not destroyed grass, but damaged grass) will repair itself, if it has a lot of fertilizer on it. "A lot" of fertilizer by your standards, not by my standards. That doesn't mean I want you to overdose your lawn by doubling the recommended rate, because that's not what I want. But I do want you to recognize that you have not been putting down enough fertilizer, by my standards, you have been barely squeaking by, typical homeowner stuff, once in the fall, maybe once in the spring to go with it, and maybe not the once in the spring, if you already did once in the fall. That amount is not nearly enough. But if you maximize that fertilizer, and give it a regular dose, several over the year, that lawn will maximize its potential: when scuffed, it will be growing fast enough to repair itself in a few days to a week. With less fertilizer, it will try to repair itself, but will take a week to two weeks, and during that time, is greatly susceptible to being scuffed again: it's that second scuff that will kill it. With the bare minimum of fertilizer, it will take three weeks to repair from that scuff, and be susceptible to even a third scuff, before the self repair can grow in....and that third scuff will surely kill it. Compare your yard to the local athletic field, and the local golf course (both professionally managed), and the actual people count, the traffic count, and the wear and tear. Your four year old, and his dog, and later his pals, isn't even close. The only place it might be close is absolutely right under the swing. And if you move the swing (assuming a little one) once a month, you'll even stay ahead of the game right under the swing. There's one solution: nitrogen. Put the fertilizer down. Keep us advised, here, how it turns out. But if you overseed with a mix (any old mix, do it yourself, in a bucket) of a quality bluegrass/sunny area mix, that contains some KBG, some perennial rye, some turf type tall fescues, and whatever smallish amounts of what else might be in the mix, you'll do fine. It's the fertilizer that will make it do excellently.

Some time ago I investigated St.Mary/St. Mary's Broom question somewhere in this forum. The answer was: "Broom shouldn't be part of a name anymore than seedling or sport. I used to offer 'St. Mary's Broom' and changed it to 'St. Mary' to keep the name more in line with the cultivated code of nomenclature. I didn't think there would be any confusion since names cannot be duplicated within a genera, meaning only one 'St. Mary' should exist in the Picea. So Kleckas, they are the same plant and I recommend calling it 'St. Mary'. It is an excellent cultivar and even though I am producing many of the newer ones, I will always be doing this one. Its only problem appears to be a number of dead buds that do not push each spring." - Bob Fincham

google images for pinus strobus pendula .... and ask yourself if is really all that different ....' when i googled angel falls.. no images.. which leads me to believe it is a new name ... if it is close enough.. try gee tree farm, girards .... or any of the slew of other sellers .... its common and easily trainable .... i am thinking in the 25 to 35 dollar range for a one gal .... and strobus grow like weeds once established... so go small ... good luck ken Here is a link that might be useful: CS database has pix of both ...

Thank you for these many kind thoughts. I do love the Chamaecypari nootkatensis pendula -- we put one in the front of our house -- but thought the cost of a bunch of these would be prohibitive. On the other hand, no solution will be inexpensive and at least the one we put in under similar conditions seems happy. The one hemlock I have planted has been attacked by the adelgid already, despite dormant oil sprays. Has anyone had experience with the adelgid-eating beetle, and doesn't that seem like a risky intervention? Easy to imagine bamboo escaping my control and then we'll be living on something like the set of Apocalypse Now. American holly is great, but have already had some leaf miner adventures with our two. Granted that was dealt with pretty easily. Some Thuja nigra in the front are doing well, in full sun. A mix of the trees you all have mentioned would be best, but have trouble visualizing a good "rhythm" of alternating species -- threes and fives? Some pointy, some pendula? Some colors especially successful when juxtaposed? If a particularly nice combination comes to mind that you have seen, please mention it. Grateful for your good thoughts and suggestions. Lynn