Thank you Mary, just found the way to Translate!! quickly too, via Hyperlink. Type in the words in the upper right hand corner bar ( there'll be W at the end), scroll down to Translate, then to From English or other language, then scroll to what language to translate it into. LOVE it. Of course not too many ads around the web is a great thing too, thank you thank you Mary. Bea

Photobucket has changed a bit since this thread first started in May 2006, so it's probably time for an update. I'll leave it to you to open your account at Photobucket (or whichever service you choose) and get photos uploaded from your computer to your page there. (If you have problems, email me at solstice98@att.net). Here's what your photos will look like at Photobucket: Instead of the 3 choices you used to have, now you'll see that there are 4 boxes under each photo. For posting directly into messages, click on the one that says "HTML code". You'll instantly see a little pop-up box that tells you it's "copied". Go back to the message you are typing into GardenWeb and click on where in the message you want the photo to appear. "Paste" it into that spot. You should see the html code (it's just text at this point, not an actual photo) that starts with a 'less than' sign and the word 'img'. Now when you click on "Preview Message" you should see your text as you've typed it and the photo. (If you can't see the photo then we won't see it when you sumbit the message either, so keep trying.) If instead of posting the picture for direct viewing in your message, you want to use the URL link boxes, then in Photobucket you would copy your image by clicking on the second box - the one that is labeled "Direct Link". That works but it forces readers to click on the link to get to your image. It's more fun to put it directly into the picture - instant view & instant gratification. If your photo shows up too large in GardenWeb, then just go back to Photobucket and edit the size. Click on 'edit', then 'resize' once the picture opens. 'Message Board' is obviously a nice size for message boards, but if you have graphic images, logos or little animations, then you can go smaller. Your image will automatically change once the message is posted to GardenWeb so you don't have to change anything there. If you rename, move or delete your photo in Photobucket, the connection is lost in GardenWeb because you aren't really putting the picture there; you are just putting code into the message that tells the computer to pull up and insert the photo there. Hope that help! But don't hesitate to ask questions if you have problems. Kate

"Wonderful way to do it, but don't you need to put in DIRT also, Rita? How long before you can plant in these beds? I'm full of questions, but I need to simplify things here too, because I don't walk too well anymore. Hope you can clear up my questions! thanks, susan" Putting down soil....answer = "it depends." Notice that, when planting shrubs, Rita dug DOWN into the underlying soil, the stuff under the grass she was killing. Notice, too, that she made her daylily bed months before planting in it. Reasons for those things = the organic material laid on top of the grass will, over time, decompose, so the level of material will therefore drop. Roots of trees, shrubs, daylilies & other perennials will be exposed. You can plant annuals, including vegetables, right away in a newly made lasagna bed. I use lasagna method to create new beds, although with differences in specifics from what Rita does. For one thing, I use a greater range of material, everything from crumbled leaves (I have ~10 enormous bags full of them in the barn right now), to grass clippings to contents of compost bucket, to aged compost, pine bark fines, to mushroom soil, etc. Also, instead of newspaper, you can use cardboard, although that works better if you want to create straight-edged beds. In both cases, 'tho particularly with the cardboard, you should wet thoroughly before laying down. I soak in a wheelbarrow full of water. The purpose is to help shape the material in the way that you want. Also, no, you don't need to apply an herbicide to grass, as lalalandwi did. The point of the newspaper/cardboard and leaves + whatever is to do that for you, over time. If your grass is quite high, it does help to clip it short, but IMO that's merely to enable you to lay the first layer (newspaper/cardboard) relatively flat. Bear in mind that, even with those layers -- even with deep layers -- you may have certain weeds able to grow through. Various grasses, for example; I believe I've seen mention of bermuda grass, 'tho I may be misremembering. For that stuff, perhaps you would need an herbicide. Also bear in mind that leaving leaves as a nice warm layer in autumn may be an invitation for mice & voles to use as burrows. Not a good thing! I had something burrowing in one of my beds, but didn't notice til this spring. The burrow was about half an inch from my plant of NEON FLAMINGO! So I almost had a valued daylily go through a winter with roots and crown exposed. Ugh. :( Also, many people will layer something on top of the leaves, particularly if they're making beds in autumn/winter. It's for neatness as much as for any other reason - to keep leaves from blowing around. And, relative to whole ones, crumbled leaves will both decompose more quickly and blow around less. If you have many questions about this and similar methods, you should go over to the soil & composting forum on this web site. Many people with much experience there. Not to mention, it'll be on topic. :)))

Hi Teyo, Expanded clay we talked about before is not available in Denmark for personal use. The DSB Danish Transport department buy this expanded clay from Sweden. I talked with DSB employees they advised me to buy it from Sweden just like they do. They call it "sand sne = sand snow" For the Al's 5:1:1 proper screening is very important, my opinion is based on my experiences. These sapwood has no problems for me : But this one has real problem, it is water retentive and when it dried the size getting smaller that shrunk the soil . Really I hate it. These pine bark fine is after multiple screening it works so good for me: I made a second batch with it, I love it. It is so good for the plant. I really respect Tapla and Josh's efforts to help us to have a good potting soil. Have a nice weekend everyone :) Caelian