Heat and Arid tolerant Conifers
lzrddr
10 years ago
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gardener365
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Lung Fir. Tolerates heat and total shade.
Comments (1)Hey...you get to see a PICTURE of "a shocking image of the tree inside Mr Sidorkin's lung" at the link above! Barbara...See MoreAre any heat tolerant firs fragrant?
Comments (22)When driving from the west side of Washington state to the east side you pass from Doug fir/hemlock dominated forests to Ponderosa pine dominated forestland, virtually as soon as you traverse the mountain pass. The scent of the pines is extremely distinct, especially in warmer weather. And I'd have to say that my experience with incense cedars, Calocedrus decurrens, is that they also have a very detectable fragrance. And the foliage of popular lemon-lime cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa 'Goldcrest' (or 'Wilma Goldcrest') has a very pungent citrusy fragrance but only when bruised or disturbed. It's not a pleasant fragrance - many consider it rather 'cat-like' - but various species of juniper can reek on warm, sunny days. IME, it seems to be warmth that triggers most coniferous fragrances......plus, larger groupings of the plants rather than single specimens. But none of these are firs :-( I also notice the very camphor-like aroma of eucalypts everytime I visit southern California, where these trees grow like weeds (and in many cases, ARE weeds). But I do believe the scent or aroma of plants has a lot to do with how sensitized you are to them - they seem to be less distinguishable if you live with them on a day to day basis. The scent of the eucalyptus becomes much less pronounced after I've been there a few days :-)...See MoreRed fir heat tolerance
Comments (41)Josh, I want to say that I have made a rather puzzling and somewhat intriguing discovery. Last year I bought two abies procera four-year transplanted bare-root stock trees from Porky Farms in northern Michigan. That is what I ordered, anyways. One did really well last summer while the other was rather weak. I chalked that up to transplant shock. Now they both look really good and the weaker of the two looks a lot better and I think it’s gonna make it. But here’s the surprise. The leaves or needles on the two specimens do not look the same. The leaves on the more vigorous of the two look exactly like the needles on two other abies procera that I’d gotten from Joe Welker’s nursery the prior year. But the needles on the other Porky Farms tree look different. They are more curled upwards. Hmmmn, I thought to myself; that brings back memories of fir trees that I’d seen in the Sierra Nevada Mountains years ago. Could this one tree possibly be an abies magnifica sent in error? I have discovered through my own personal experience that nurseries can and do make mistakes at times. At the time that I placed my order, Porky Farms was showing that they no longer had any abies magnifica left in stock. But maybe they did have one – just one – after all! We’ll see. In another growing season or two any differences will become more obvious. I have had some correspondence with that guy Bert Cregg who participated in the study on growing exotic conifers in the Midwest that I’d cited in my earlier post. He told me that both abies procera and abies grandis can do well in western Michigan where they get planted not far from the shores of Lake Michigan. That’s “snow belt” country. Conditions can sometimes mimic the orographic snowfall in the Sierras. This would help support your snowpack theory. We did not discuss abies magnifica but I would assume it might be the same situation. There is actually somewhat of a fine line between abies procera and a. magnifica. Glad to hear that your two red firs made it through the winter! That’s no small feat ‘cause I’ve had very bad luck planting anything in the fall be it western conifers, eastern shade trees or fruit trees. I like late March/early April the best. Here’s something that you might wanna try that I’ve tried with some success. I took a 4’ X 4’ sheet of OSB board and staked it to the windward side of the trees. That at least will keep the wind off if it gets down to -20°F. Cregg told me that the wind is definitely a factor, too. And to this I added a thick mulch layer of dead pine and fir needles. My theory and hope is that if that’s done for a few years until the tree becomes established with deep roots, it might be able to make it on its own without the windbreak. There is no proof of this but I’m willing to try. It worked GREAT last winter, but, like you said, it was mild. Best Regards, Fred M. Cain, Topeka, IN...See MoreDrought resistant and waterlogging tolerant conifer with strong roots?
Comments (11)Thank you all for your replies, I can understand the difficulty in choosing a species fitting in these climate constraints. Any opinion is warmly welcome. I've checked a scientific paper about drought and waterlogging tolerance of many tree species which nicely lists each with values ranging from 0 (no tolerance) to 5 (maximal tolerance), and those numbers have kind of surprised me (didn't expect Sequoiadendron giganteum to be slightly more drought resistant than Metasequoia glyptostroboides, yet slightly less waterlogging resistant). I did copy some species scores and created a resume, with marked what was in my mind (perhaps erroneously), a "benchmark" conifer for drought, waterlogging resistance and fast growth, dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides). Apparently those numbers show that bald cypress would be my best choice since it scores above any other species suggested (and others I was wondering about) in both drought and waterlogging resistance, however since neither the drought nor the waterlogging may be as severe as requiring such a high performance score, I'm curious about how would those species be ranked against each other regarding growth rate (since I have little idea about this and maybe a Pseudotsuga menziesii would score enough for my garden yet grow taller and faster than bald cypress) ? Thank you...See Moresluice
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