We need to remember, ken, the differences among those plants classified as perennials. Some go fully dormant as soon as they are touched by frost or short days. These plants will either die back completely TO THE GROUND or they will simply drop their leaves. Their root systems, however, are charged and ready to go come spring. Yes, some are hardy (such as Echinacea) while others are tender (like Lantana). Such plants, and there are thousands of varieties, don't even like being kept in an eternal growing state and actually require a dormancy. The root systems of most plants serve as storage organs. That's even listed as one of the 4 functions of roots, speaking in terms of plant physiology. Even though most aren't bulbs or tubers, they still have a very important storage capacity. It's those stored carbon (energy) reserves that are re-metabolized in the spring so that dormant plants of all kinds (herbaceous perennials, shrubs, trees) can burst with new growth.

My hardy waterlily is putting up leaves, pickerel rush has sprouted and is several inches tall. The parrot feather in the bottom of the pond has green leaves that have reached the water surface. My varigated sweet flag has sprouted but is slow-growing (maybe too deep). I added WH plants to pond today. Last week my plant order arrived so I have blue rush, bog bean and water celery in and they are all sprouting new growth already. I don't know yet if my taros made it through winter. I buried them into the ground last fall, and after the rough winter, it will be iffy. Things should be taking off soon as the temps should start becoming more stable. Pond water is cooler than the air temps in my pond. We have had day temps in the 70's and nights down to mid-50's. My water is running about 60 degrees. Hope that helps.

I have found that temperature shifts are the number one reason for tuber rot in my storage situation. The more constant the temp, the better. Other long-time growers believe that running refrigerators are the kiss of death for tubers, as the constant cooling cycle dries and stresses the tubers. I see posts every spring from an unhappy camper who tried storing in the fridge. An unplugged fridge might do better... I don't know about that. I have heard lots of negative talk about peat moss, as it has a tendency to dry out tubers too much. Adding moisture would only invite the tubers to break dormancy and sprout. Personally, I would avoid that medium, sticking with sawdust, cedar chips, vermiculite or perlite to dry-pack the tubers. One gent at my local dahlia club always splits the tuber clumps in half, cleans out the pith inside the stem to avoid rot, and stores in open shopping bags in his root cellar. He divides in spring. There's many ways to store, but keep them between 40-55 degrees if possible. The key things to avoid is: - changing temp - too much dryness or wet - light exposure Here is a link that might be useful: Tuber digging, dividing & storing

My treasure that made it through it's first winter is a Tatarian Maple. It's tiny yet, but it made it and has leafed out really well. My husband and I are from Vancouver Island where there are so many gorgeous Japanese Maple trees in the landscaping there. We miss it so much and I've been hunting for years to find a similar Maple that would survive in our yard here. This Tatarian Maple is the closest I can get. It will be years before it is of any significant size, but it's here and alive!