Dahlia winter storage question
sheryl_ontario
12 years ago
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Comments (15)
monet_g
12 years agosheryl_ontario
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Dahlia winter treatment
Comments (4)I would leave them in the tub and move the tub into a garage or area that stays cool but doesn't freeze. Plant your poppy seeds somewhere else and then transplant them into the tub after hard freezes are over and the tub is back outside. The dahlias should take light freezes if no top growth is showing. This solution is easier for the novice dahlia grower than trying to keep the tubers inside after digging them....See MoreDigging, Dividing and Winter Storage Of Tubers
Comments (18)I'm still trying to figure out how best to store Dahlias here in Minnesota. I do have a good place for them but each year when I try to preserve them I always have some die. I've tried the plastic wrap and they rotted. Otherwise, if I put them in paper bags and into the storage area they tend to just dry out. Sometimes I take them out of storage in Feb. and soak them in the sink so that they won't dry out and that seems to help. In March I plant them in pots to get them an early start. I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it to save them or if I should just buy new every spring. I always end up buying some of them to replace the ones that don't make it through the winter. In zone 4, (long winter), I'd be interested in knowing how you store yours. If you use the baggie/vermiculite method, what does the vermiculite do to preserve the dahlia bulbs? Thanks....See MoreWinter storage question
Comments (11)My problem is one of space. The plumie/tropical patch has grown quite large and there is no greenhouse. I presently have 18 large Plumeria trees in 15 to 30 gallon pots. These range in height from 4ft to 7ft, and up to 6ft wide. Along with these I have 24 citrus trees in 5 gallon pots, 4 Dwarf Cavendish banana trees, 2 desert rose, 16 orchids, 2 4ft tropical hibiscus, 6 1ft tropical hibiscus, 80 Plumeria seedlings in 1 gallon pots, and 1 sago palm that must be wintered indoors. My plants take up 2 bedrooms and part of the living room. I did not bare root them last winter and lost 2. 1 due to a beetle of some sort that laid its eggs inside the stem, and the other to a fungal attack. The plant made it through the winter just fine, even started growing new leaves, then it died for no apparent reason. Within a couple days it was rotted and no amount of cutting back could save it. I came to the conclusion that the fungus was in the soil and dormant throughout the winter. When the warm temps returned it was able to flourish....See MoreWinter Storage Question
Comments (23)Spiro, that's great! Thanks for the update! Let's hope it grows into a nice, bushy seedling instead of the usual lanky plumeria adolescent, lol. Mark and Blooms, each of your plumeria may behave differently. I tend to let them go dormant or not as they naturally do. The ones who keep leaves longer go next to windows. When I had manageable numbers--before I got to mumble-mumblety plants ;) --I would only take them in just before a freeze and then put them right back outside for the warm winter days we have. That helped keep down the spider mite and white fly numbers. Now with so many I spray them all just before Thanksgiving and a day or so later bring them into the house or garage permanently. Here in Central Texas we use Thanksgiving to Easter as our guidelines for winter storage, but in DFW or West Texas you'll probably get a light frost a little earlier. As with bare-rooting, the older the plant, the better able it will be to tolerate temps around 40. Many tougher ones like Celadine will take light frosts but only if planted in the ground and given some covering. Your plants are young so don't take any chances--their first winter is always their hardest and many people lose theirs to rot. If you're not sure about watering, then don't. Good luck!...See Moreteddahlia
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