I was going to link you to a post on Neem Oil, but the search function is down today. I have it on file, so I'll just post again. I'm not sure I mention it in the article, but cold-pressed Neem Oil also has good antifungal properties. The info: Neem Extract as an Insecticidesize> In India mainly, but also Asia and Africa, grows a tree all plant enthusiasts should be aware of, Azadirachta indica, commonly known as the "neem" tree, and a relative of mahogany. Extracts from the trees seeds contain azadirachtin, a relatively safe and effective naturally occurring organic insecticide. Let me preface the comments following, by reminding you that the terms "naturally occurring and/or organic" do not universally mean safe. Pyrethrums, rotenone, and even the very dangerous nicotine are all organic insecticides that should be handled with great caution. Neem extracts, on the other hand are very safely used in a wide variety of cosmetics, as a topical treatment for minor wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage containers, bins, and bags, and a whole host of other applications. Neem is very safe for use around birds & mammals. I'll limit this discussion to its use as an insecticide. Neem works in many ways. It is effective both in topical and a systemic applications. It is an anti-feedant, an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer. Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the hormone Edison, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well, disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect "skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread geographically Tests have shown that azadirachtin is effective in some cases at concentrations as low as 1 ppm, but some producers use alcohol in the extraction of neem oil from plant parts which causes the azadirachtin to be removed from the oil. Some products touting neem oil as an ingredient actually have no measurable amounts of azadiractin. I use what is referred to either as cold pressed or virgin neem oil. You may also occasionally find it referred to as "raw" neem or "crude" neem oil. Neem oil is most often used in an aqueous (water) suspension as a foliar spray or soil drench. Commonly, it is diluted to about a .5 to 2% solution, but the suggested ratio for use in container plant culture is 1 tsp. per quart of warm water. A drop or two of dish soap (castile or olive oil soap is best) helps keep the oil emulsified. The mixture is then applied as a mist to all leaf and bark surfaces and as a soil drench to the tree's root system. It should not be applied as a foliar spray on hot days or in bright sun as leaf burn may occur. Remember to agitate the container frequently as you apply and do not mix anymore than you will use in one day. Neem breaks down rapidly in water and/ or sunlight. Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit; however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it appears that insects build no Âresistance to azadiractin. I have been using neem oil for at least 6 years as both a preventative and fixative and have had no insect problems on my container plants. Applications of cold-pressed neem oil are most effective for use on mites, whitefly, aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles, mealy bugs, leaf miners, g-moth, and others. It seems to be fairly specific in attacking insects with piercing or rasping mouth parts. Since these are the pests that feed on plant tissues, they are our main target species. Unless beneficials like spiders, lady beetles, certain wasps, etc., come in direct contact with spray, it does little to diminish their numbers. Neem oil does have an odor that might be described as similar to that of an old onion, so you may wish to test it first, if you intend to use it indoors. I've found the odor dissipates in a day or two. As always, read and follow label instructions carefully. Neem oil can be purchased from many net or local sources. My favorite brand is Dyna-Gro, pure, cold-pressed neem oil. If you have trouble locating a source, you can contact me via the forum or directly. Al Fassezke

You have to protect the root zone of potted nursery stock, even if they are considered 'hardy' in your zone. They fare a lot better in the ground than sitting out in a bad zone six winter in a pot on a porch, or stuffed into a garage. Your little pixie tree isn't going to throw so much shade that it's going to take up a lot of space with its canopy shade unless you have a postage stamp lot. Even then it's probably doable with blueberries nearby. I grow my blueberries in a dappled sun situation and they're loaded every year. I also do not prophylactically use pesticides on my fruit trees, because I do not have a lot of insect pressure either. I keep a small orchard, and don't invest that much time in its upkeep, short of pruning. So many people are scared off by what they consider the high upkeep of fruit trees, when they aren't that difficult. Plant the little guy and enjoy.

I believe in "MO BETTER." Like Jo, if one is good, the MO is BETTER. With plantaginea, I have 8. Sagae has 2 in one pot, I want to see a big plant quicker. Royal Standard, about 3, because I love it and it is fertile So Sweet 2 Frozen Margarita 2 Grape Fizz 2 Honeybells 2 Whirlwind 2 August Moon 2 Midas Touch 2 Invincible Spirit 2 Victory 2 planted in one pot Paradise Island 2 in one pot, looking gorgeous still Goodness, I could go on, but it is my policy to get the 2nd of its kind from a different source for several reasons....one being it is beautiful hosta....another being it is a way to check the growth habit which might be different if from a different tissue culture. I especially like to try for OS (originator stock) if available, and compare it to TC (tissue cultures). I have 2 Fortunei Hyacinthinas because they look so different. One is the light version, the other is apparently the darker version. As I discover the duplicate is the same as my original and it is healthy, I am sometimes planting them in the same pot--but that goes against my cautious nature, since if they are mixed I have no way of knowing with which plant a virus originates. Heck, I am only now beginning to merge hosta from various nurseries in the same row. Before, I had them isolated in "classrooms" which helped me identify each cultivar (because I knew what I purchased from them). As I discover some hosta (especially a fragrant one) produce large amounts of seedpods, I tend to get a duplicate of it.

It's a myth that plants need to be thinned to one. Yes, if you've got two plants in the same hole, neither will reach the size that one plant would have. But both together easily do! At least for peppers, tomatoes, and cucurbits, I routinely thin to two plants and plant in doubles. Never ever had any productivity problems as a result, AND the filled garden slot has insurance in case one plant dies.