how to transpalnt a conifer/tree -- huge pix post
14 years ago
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- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
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Helping soil to retain moisture- please help
Comments (17)I agree - don't plant too deeply as it opens up the trunk to such things as insects and fungus. Try to amend the soil with compost for water retention purposes but not too much as the tree roots need to anchor itself eventually. it will need very frequent watering for the first year until the root are well established. Do you have a timed water sprinkler so you don't have to water it yourself everyday.. Other than that, use a bladder which you can fill in with water and it should just drip water throughout the day. I think it will last a few days between refilling. http://www.leevalley.com/US/garden/page.aspx?p=45922&cat=2,2280,54307 Make sure after planting to water the tree so completely that there are no airpockets because if that happens, in winter ice could happen and kill the tree....See MoreTransplanting Spruces in Z3a
Comments (20)Unfortunately Ken I do not live on the property, and cannot get out there at this time of the year during the week before sunset. Without any light at site, I'd never even see the hole that I need to dig. ;) As for babying the trees - sometimes it is necessary. Our neighbor didn't baby his Brandon Cedars (some of the hardiest varieties you can find around here), and the branches browned right to the base. We wrapped ours and mounded snow around the bases, and they are doing alright. (Except for the dam neighbors horse who trampled one, and the a$shole snowmobiliers who detoured off the ditch just to run over 6 of them....jerks.) Unfortunately we live in a pretty harsh climate. Eg, If I didn't spend 8 hours filling a 1000L water tote with ditch water this spring, and using burlap to create some shade until they'd adapted to the sun, they'd have died in the heat of summer. But manual irrigation is better than nothing, and at least they are taller now than if i plant them after the house is built! :) They are saying two more days of rain, and then warm temps for Saturday. Hopefully it'll hold, not be too mucky, and we'll get em moved to a better location. I helped my parents dig and transplant enough spruces, cedars and the like to cover their 2 acres by diggin em out of Right of Ways in the spring, and planting them right away. 25+ years later, they've grown into real beauties. Now it's my turn to cover an empty piece of property, and it's just fall planting that has me learning something new! Wish me luck!...See MoreOsmanthus Fragrans and Clay Soil
Comments (17)" changing of the soil texture inside the planting hole may cause it to collect water, like a sump." And I suspect this is related to why the BAD advice of hole amending became popular at all. In climates with hot summers and highly irregular, sometimes scant rainfall (i.e., not the PNW, where your rainfall or seasonal lack of is more predicable and therefore irrigation for some kinds of plant is the norm, not the exception)...it's possible that a moisture retentive patch of soil superficially makes plants apparently easier to water. And therefore "easier to grow". Say you plant 10 Gumpo Azaleas in hard southern clay, and minimally mulch them. For 5 of them you do the "5 gallon hole for a 1 gallon plant" thing and backfill with moisture retentive compost/peat/perlite mixes. For 5 you plant straight in the brick clay. Let's say you have a big, quick downpour on June 1, getting 1/2" of rain in 10-15 minutes. As can definitely happen in the eastern 1/2 of the country. Most of the rain near the straight-hole plants will run off. In the "sumps", a lot of the rain will manage to be collected because the potting soil mix will percolate better. I can totally imagine that 2 weeks later, w/o supplemental watering, the 5 plants in the "5 gallon holes" are still going to be green and perky, and the straight planted ones wilting. But it's a devil's bargain for all the reasons mentioned in the paper I posted. In fact like anyone I can't really get into my head 25 years ago, but I definitely remember READING the advice to amend/backfill, but I think after a while I instinctively started avoiding it, because I realized it caused such problems. In my late teens I rototilled an entire bed adding Permatil, which suddenly made it possible (or at least somewhat more possible) to cultivate the various high elevation South African forbs I was into at the time. But entire bed amendment is very different from in-hole amendment; and golf course/athletic field managers wouldn't pay hundreds of thousands to do whole field/whole course amendment with say, Turface, if it didn't have a positive, provable outcome...with growing grass. (may not help typical trees/shrubs nearly as much...they have bigger, stronger roots) It was a hassle to get the rototiller and clearly I realized running around putting permatil into individuals holes wasn't helping or wasn't going to. BTW I was at a nursery somewhere recently, honestly can't remember where, and heard this advice (amend/backfill) dutifully recommended. So the idiocy is still out there. (as happened to the OP, too) In fairness to embo - because I am clearly the fair one - he's probably right that the sump effect is the main problem. But as I'm pointing out, and the authors of the paper believe, the sump effect itself perturbs the optimal growth pattern for the roots....See MoreWeeping Willow Tree
Comments (10)first... weeping willow is a nice park or golf course tree .. most of us would suggest no closer than 50 feet to a structure ... of course you dont say what kind ... so i generalize ... second .... you dont mention size .... and i am sure.. 5 feet is way over the top... maybe a foot for every inch caliper ... once extablished.. in a year for a willow .... you should never have to water it again ... first link is a plnating guide ... second link is a pictorial on what i call a moat for watering ... its a good idea for the short period a transplant will need water.. but most likely way over the top ... ken guide https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub pictorial ... but i cant see the pix... and hoping they will show later ... http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1827881/how-to-transpalnt-a-conifer-tree-huge-pix-post...See More- 13 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5Original Author