Don't get rid of those tubers...they will sprout again, providing you take care of them. I do not know where in the south you live, but if its too warm as you say, how about putting them in the bag along with some peat moss, and put it in your bottom shelf of a Fridge, until you see 'eyes' again and then re-pot. You do have a Fridge...LOL As for the cuttings, sometimes they can be very unpredictable...especially when it comes to non stop tuberous begonias. I leave a couple of top new leaves and cut just below a node and wet the bottom and powder it with rootone and then stick them into peat moss and/or sand. Keep in bright area, not in the sun and wait. Good luck

Some clematis are more susceptible to wilt than others. Niobe is one that is quite susceptible in my garden. It won't spread wilt to other plants. It may outgrow it eventually, especially if you plant it so the base of the plant is buried 4" or so deep. Be sure it gets even moisture throughout the growing season, and it will probably appreciate a couple of inches of mulch, though keep mulch away from the stems. If you move it, hard prune it. You can also prune any stems that are developing wilt any time during the growing season. Not enough sun won't cause wilt, but it may grow and bloom better in a spot that has more sun. My Niobe in 10 years or so has never given me more than about 4 flowers a year, and some seasons it gets wilt, though it didn't this year. I have it planted in a spot that there's a rose and a metal trellis it can climb if it wants to, but in years that it doesn't do well it is fairly well hidden by plants in front of it.

My advice is for you to follow the directions given by Cecily, Jacqueline, and Seil. The bush is in a weakened state, no further cutting at this time please, even the blackened stem. You can remove it later after the bush recovers. Begin a regular spray program for the control of black spot now, and continue all growing season long. Spray all the leafless stems, even the black one ASAP. The bush should start fo leaf out very soon. Continue spraying every 10 days to 2 weeks there after, if using the Bayer fungicide. The Bayer fungicide works extremely well for me. I highly recommend it. I have not found the organic controls that I have tried effective, but I have not tried them all. Time your spraying carefully. Foliage can be damaged easily if spray is misapplied. Then the good you are doing is cancelled out. Never spray a thirsty bush, in the heat of the day, or when the temp. is 80 degrees F., or higher at spraying time or rises above 80 for a period of one hour after spraying. If you spray when the temp. is 78, and it gets up to 85 in just a half hour's time, that's no good. Spraying in the early morning or during dusk is always best. I could not grow roses to any degree of success in my garden where the black spot pressure is intense and relentless from spring to fall, without a regular spray program.

Thank you BenT. I googled Dr Huey pictures. Some are more double than others. How confusing! This spot has got shadier from our dogwood tree and our neighbor’s tree. We pruned the trees a little this spring and will do more pruning next year since an arborist friend told us not to prune more than 10% in a year. Hi Kristine, yes I’ve been looking at various roses for a while:) This spot get more sun on top of the fence so I am thinking a climbing rose might do better than a shrub. I may start the climber in a pot in a sunnier spot and put it in the ground in the fall when it reaches good height. Or will the transplant do more harm than just starting in the ground? Thank you so much for everyone’s help here! I only started with an Eden this year so not much experience with roses. But they look and smell so good I think I am getting obsessed!