Your roots are to the stage that potting up to a larger pot would be appropriate. The roots are not pot bound yet but I would cut through them vertically from top to bottom in several places about 2 inches deep when potting up. I would not consider bare rooting them. Orchid mixes are usually mostly fir bark and come in large size pieces or small. The smaller size I think would be OK for your tree. Most houses in the winter with the heat on become very dry and tend to draw the moisture out of the foliage. Do what you can to keep a reasonable humidity and rotate the containers to equalize the light. You will need to water about once a week with enough water that about 20% drains freely from the container. If your trees show signs of wilting between watering, shorten up the watering frequency slightly. If available locally look for citrus labeled fertilizer that lists the minors on the label. Watch for aphids or scale and if found take the containers outside, and spray thoroughly with Neem or horticultural oil. Al

hey song I wish I could find out who started the idea that adding rocks to the bottom of the pot helps drainage. I mean simple physics answers that question. The smaller particles of soil will always fill the voids causing the perched water to be no different essentially than using the soil only. It bothers me that places still send that as instructions. Anyways I would get rid of that soon. Granite grit is chicken feed. The size for the gritty i believe is #2, could be wrong there. You can find Manna Pro chicken grit at Tractor supply stores. Look at some of you landscape supply stores for Turface. Ewing irrigation and some John deere stores have it. If you have no luck with that go to some of your local baseball and softball complexes and ask them. 99% of all baseball and softball field maintenance crews use it to dry the fields. They could help you find it. You want Turface MVP. Also there is a Napa Auto parts floor dry that is a good substitute for Turface. It has a specific part number youll get but I dont remember it. Search the forums and it should pop up. Mike

I would guess if if you are potting it up, unless the netting is quite small hole that could constrict the roots at some future point I would leave it on. Citrus roots are fragile and easy to break so the nurseryman is correct in this part but again if the netting is very fine it may after some years be a detriment. I would pay a lot of attention to choice of potting medium as you don't want the "soil" to collapse too soon meaning another repotting sooner than later. You might pop over to the container forum and spend a few hours wading thru some very interesting discussions on not using store bought mixes unless you plan on repotting almost every year. Good Luck and Happy Growing David

Lol, I have to agree with Steve about Meyer lemon trees and progress going in the same sentence ;). That said, I haven't given up on mine yet. First off, congratulations on what seems like a successful year with your tree! Beyond that, it's hard to say without some pictures. Assuming you purchased your tree from a nursery and it is grafted onto rootstock (vs grown from seed), I don't think it's unreasonable to hope for fruit this winter. Then again, my Meyer dropped it's fruit at the first sign of triple digits this summer. Yours sounds like it's held out longer than mine.