Hello m taggert, The medium usually placed in those store bought Flytrap pots is long fiber sphagnum moss, which is fine. If the moss in the pot is chopped fine, it is probably sphagnum peat moss, the dead dessicated moss that layers under the long fiber dead moss which itself layers under live moss in nature. All of those products are the natural growing medium of the plant in peat bogs. Just make sure that your plants are not potted in potting soil and they will be fine until next spring. Check drainage by pouring a little water in the pot while the soil is already moist. Excess water should drain out in minutes. Those pots are small, but it will not hurt them unless the pots have no drainage. If their is no drainage, repot them or drill 1/4-1/2 inch holes in the bottoms of the pots. You can place the pots in a water tray up to 1/4 of their depth or less, never over that as that can drown the roots and induce root rot. Just slowly adapt the plants to low humidity if they are still in domes by removing the domes slowly over two weeks (lifting the dome and bracing it up a fraction of an inch every three days or punching a few holes in it every three days till it no longer holds humidity). Adapt the plants to high light levels by placing them in a morning sun window until they are out of the domes and then each week in progressively brighter all day sun windows. Once they are in a bright all day sun window for a week, place them outside if possible so they get maximum sun exposure. Leaf burn is expected until new leaves grow in with stronger UV resistance, but the plant overall will be stronger for the direct sun.

suburbanrancher, it's advised that the best time to repot (since, as you say Meyers seem to always be in some state of flowering) is during a dormant period just following fruit set and just before the next flush of leaves. This usually corresponds to early summer (around June or thereabouts). jkom, what an interesting question you ask about in-ground vs pot ripening times for IMLs. I actually have 3 Meyers in the ground and one that's potted, and I had every intention of (taking it a step further and) making this a full-time houseplant. After all, I'm able to successfully flower both a Cattleya orchid and a plumeria (no longer alive) at an East/Southwest facing window so I'd hoped to successfully fruit the Meyer at this location. But I've chickened out (and my potted Meyer is now an all-outdoor plant), as nobody's seemed to have done 100% indoor cultivation of a Meyer and gotten it to fruit - if anyone has evidence otherwise, I'd love to know! Maybe I should just do the experiment to determine the answer for myself...and also answer your fruit-timing question. Tim

Follow-up, 13 days after re-pot. Unfortunately my tree is in trouble again! Less than a week after repotting, the veins of many of the leaves started to turn yellow. The yellow then spreads outwards, and the leaf drops off (see photos in the link below). It looks like the little tree will lose most of its leaves :-( Searching through the forum, I found a thread from a year ago where Mike had a tree with exactly the same symptoms - did you ever find out what was wrong? I hope your tree survived! Do you think it is just a stress response (I pruned some of the roots when I repotted)? It also developed flower buds, which I know can be a sign of stress (I removed most of these to help the plant concentrate strength). I have had it in the shade since the repot and it has only been watered on the day of the repot and once since. I haven't checked the pH of the new soil, but I made it as per instructions (including lime, although perhaps I didn't include enough?). Would it be worth checking the pH? On the positive side, I have noticed a few tiny new leaves forming at the end of a couple of the branches (but not lower down on the branches). Do you think the tree will drop all it's leaves and then recover? Or is it a goner? Yours hopefully, Lindsay PS I have some Foliage Pro due to be delivered next week that I planned to start using, if the tree is still alive... Here is a link that might be useful: New problems with lemon tree

Hello..I doubt the issue of your leaves falling is the roots..They look very well built and even perfect from this vantage point! I would slip it right back into that container and instead wash each and every leaf off...I would treat for spider mites since it looks like it might have some sort of pest issue..Mites can cause leaf drop and leaves that look almost pale and soft, as if the tree is thirsty..That is what I see... Do you see those tiny white specs on those leaves? I would check underneath and even post some pics here to see if you have pest issues for sure..It's that time of the year almost everyone will get some sort of pest issue if not treated... I would only water when the pot feels light and I am thinking it dries out pretty rapidly with that many healthy roots in that pot, your protection from over watering until the late spring comes to do a completely right re pot into the 5.1.1 mix.. if you find that it takes time for the mix to dry out even though you have healthy full roots like that to fill that pot, then for sure you have mites preventing the roots from doing their job, bringing up moisture to your leaves.. P.S...You do have an IVY plant close by? Those usually are very susceptible to spider mites..I would treat all those local plants since even the tree to the left seems to be affected too..