Use iron oxides in varying amounts. Colors range from yellow ochre and rust to black (the black is a very strong colorant, I usually just sprinkle that in sparingly without much mixing). Chromium oxide (strong green) can mix with the rust to make a fine brown. Iron oxides, up to 10% of the cement, actually improves the strength. It's good to let the colors be somewhat streaky as in nature; that way repairs fit right in. Filling in cracks (and bug-holes for fine work) with a cement-marble dust paste with a touch of iron oxide looks like veins - quite nice (it polishes up beautifully if you go that route). Also, use vermiculite & perlite in your mix - then on the second or third day, use a wet sponge to sand off some of the top layer to let the vermiculite & perlite show.

You mention that you cannot use tall supports. Perhaps the following easy method which I have been trialing with success might be worth considering. For each tomato plant purchase 2 ten foot lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe available at plumbing section of box stores. Now form two hoops next to each other with these, spaced 8" apart, planting ends firmly in ground. Position one tomato plant at bottom of a hoop so that it will grow toward the sun. As it grows weave the new growth between and around the two hoops, securing branches with single-wrap velcro as needed. The velcro is also available at box stores. Beneath the hoops you will still have some growing space for crops such as herbs and lettuce. The whole set-up is sturdy and attractive. I take the time to quickly paint each pipe with dark green acrylic paint so the white piping does not stand out in color. Easy to take apart and store. The pipes will last for many, many years. Sorry, I do not post pictures on GW, but hopefully you can follow my directions.

Joe, I just saw your picture. Lemme offer you this advice: Now, while this may sound like a HUGE step backwards...consider taking down the hardie, correcting the niche dimensions, and getting everything squared away as you intended it to be. If you've spent that much thought in tile and grout layout and niche location, it's worth going the distance to reclaim your intended design. Depending on the corner overlap, taking down those three sheets of hardie will not take long, and with them being screwed in, you won't trash the hardie in the removal. Get the niches resized as needed. And when the hardie is down, take another look to see if you need additional blocking for grab bar anchors, etc. Rehang the hardie. So, you lose a few hours of labor. Or even three days. It doesn't really matter. Next month, next year, or way down the road when you show it to your grandkids, you can look at the shower, the niches, and you'll know the obstacles that you overcame to create that shower. Sometimes it is better to take two steps backward before you can take another on forward. Sometimes it's more satisfying, and more correct, to fight to get the design that you initially created instead of letting mis-steps along the way dictate a redesign to you. Been there, done that! I'm on your side buddy! Mongo

Image by: Mel Bartholemew Sample plot with trellis Ever tried to support a tomato with just a cage? You know what happens. Halfway through the season, the tomato (or cucumber or other vining veggie) overgrows its bounds, growls in angry victory, and bends, uproots or topples its support, creating a mass of vines to hide the precious produce and encourage mildew, nasty bugs and other unmentionables. Ever tried to grow a cantaloupe or vining squash on the ground without any support? You know what happens there too. The plant takes over at least 100 square feet of space, sprawling all over your garden area just to produce a few veggies or fruits for you. It's a waste of precious garden real estate. Intensive gardeners like to grow their larger, vining crops vertically. All but the big watermelons and pumpkins can be trained up a support, and some judicious pruning of side shoots keeps them within their bounds and producing abundantly. Crops are easy to pick, mildew is discouraged, and bugs are easier to spot and eliminate. The classic Square Foot method from Mel Bartholemew involves using a sturdy vertical frame (as high as you can reach), anchored well into the ground. An upside-down U made from electrical conduit or other pipe works well and doesn't break the bank (3/4" copper plumbing pipe used for this purpose is a little more expensive but very nice-looking). To support the individual plants, string is tied horizontally just above ground level and then vertically between the top bar and bottom string. Nylon is recommended to prevent rotting. The picture can give you an idea of how this works. As the vining crops grow, the new growth is wrapped around the string, and offshoot branches are pruned to keep the plant focused on growing and producing fruit along its main vertical stem. Mel includes extensive info on this method in his book and website. Other intensive-method gardeners have used other methods as well: T-posts or fence posts secured in the ground with welded wire or cattle panels attached as a super-sturdy open lattice that requires no top support. Landscape timbers outside of the bed with wooden lattice nailed on and a top-beam with a narrow piece of lattice nailed flat across the top. Nylon Trellis Netting - is soft like yarn, not hard like plastic or fishing line. It is made of high-quality nylon and will maintain 60% of its original strength after 20 years in the sun. This heavy-duty nylon netting has a 60 lb. breaking strength that will support extremely heavy crop loads. As your happy, healthy fruits and veggies get larger on their vertical vines, the bigger ones (like cantaloupe and icebox melons) will need to be supported with slings made of panty hose or something similar that allows the produce to breathe while still being supported.