Let me qoute Millet's input regarding :Bloom Production Withour Cool Temperatures- Millet is one of the moderators in another citrus forum. " To help answer questions towards methods of getting citrus trees to flower, especially when cool temperatures cannot be given. I've read elsewhere, a post asking how to get citrus buds to "break dormancy" so that the dormant "floral buds" will begin to flower. Advice given included to provide the tree with cool temperature stress, drought stress, or light stress, (the latter I never heard of). To begin with, there is no such thing as "floral bud dormancy" in citrus trees, because initially there are no flower buds. All citrus buds are vegetative buds, that will produce new foliage. What cold stress and drought stress accomplishes is to change a foliage bud into a flower bud by a biochemical process called differentiation. Differentiation = to change from one type of organism to another type of organism. In other words, the cold treatment or the drought treatment biochemically changes a bud that would have produced foliage (leaves) into a bud that will now produce flowers. Normally in temperate regions, this change is caused by the tree experiencing a period of cool weather. However, in many regions of the world there are no periods of cool weather to promote differentiation. In these regions flowering is accomplished by the dry season, where the tree experiences drought stress. Water stress can play a role in flower induction. In the hot and humid lowland tropics, there is little seasonal variation in temperature. In these areas, flowering is usually rather continuous throughout the year. Greater flowering intensity usually occurs when rainfall returns after a period of dry weather. Water stress has been used for more than a century in Mediterranean countries to stimulate flowering in lemons. By withholding water during certain periods, the timing of flowering can be altered so fruit can be harvested at a time of higher prices (this is the case with 'verdelli' lemons), or drought stress can be used to just promote a tree to flower. It is important to determine the optimum level of stress at which irrigation should be started after the dry period. Too little stress can promote an inadequate flowering response. Too severe a stress can cause excessive leaf and fruit drop. Moderate water stress is recommended to induce sufficient flowering without excessive fruit drop, if fruit is present on the tree. For trees without fruit, this of course is not a concern. In Sicily, to promote the blooming of Lemon trees, water is withheld until the trees show wilt, then water is once again given and the trees put forth a nice bloom. Water stress can also be accomplished in container trees, by moderately withholding water to lower levels causing a stress to the tree. I have seen, more often than I would like, a few of my citrus trees bloom forth, after I have inadvertently failed to water causing the tree to became wilted. In one case quite wilted. - Millet"

Hi Orchidcrazy.. Since you said you've had the same problems w/your citrus two yrs in a row, I don't think humidity/temps are 'all' that's bothering you're plants. If you suspect mites, the best thing to do is rid them.. Since I don't believe in 'chemical' insecticides, I use around-the-house items...Fill a mister bottle 3/4's of water..room temp (warm) Add, 2-4 drops of dish soap..(I don't use Dawn, but some ppl swear by it) In addition to dish soap I also add, ground garlic and citrus rind. Fill w/a little more water and shake. Spray plants, thoroughly.. BTW, do you see webbing? If so, moisten paper towel w/rubbing alcohol and ripe away webbs..that outta kill the suckers. I started using this formula many years ago and have to say, 98% of my plants, are mite free.. Living in Il, keeping plants, especially citrus, gardenia, hibsicus, and a few other tropicals are a major job..it gets quite dry here..Dry air and wet soil are mite and other insect magnets. Including fungus gnats. Be sure soil dries before giving that extra drink of water. Good luck w/your new gh..Toni

I have a Valencia, Late Lane, Owarwi Satsuma, and Washinton Navel in pots in San Jose. You are probably giving your Valencia either too much or too little water and/or fertilizer. Here is how I keep mine healthy: 1) Use commercial potting soil for the size of pot that you use (I think it might be sandier for big pots to help them drain), 2) Drill at least 5 drainage holes (minimum 3/4" diameter)in the bottom of the pot and cover them with fiberglass screen (not too fine) sold for this purpose before adding the soil, 3) Use ONLY organic, low-potency fertilizer. You could be burning the leaves with chemical fertilizers and ironite, 4) Water a medium sized pot with at least 4 gallons of water once a week in winter and twice a week in summer (this is highly dependent on the temperature). Don't worry about over-watering if you have good drainage and soil as I have described above, 5) Use ladybugs to control aphids and keep ants out of the trees, and 6) Repot to a larger pot every 2-3 years if the tree has grown but now appears to be struggling, and 7) give the trees the maximum amount of sunlight. Good luck!

Dear Sara, Though I have only had my fruit tree for a few months, I have experienced the joy and disappointment on care for .......a PLANT! Don't know why, but want this one to do well. I too had this sticky white stuff. Here in Seattle, I keep my plant 50% of the time indoors, and 50% out on my southern exposed deck. After reading and inspection, I have discovered that my plant has scale, a type of bug infestation that can present. These insects are very small (my the size of a small bead) and they feed off the plant. They look like small pill (potato) bugs and move very slowly. Subsequently, their poo is the white, sticky substance that is deposited on the stems and undersides of leaves. I read this material can attract other insects (ants) but is not toxic for pets. I was able to catch it early, and washed the plant well. Then, I sprayed it with a combination of Neem oil and diswashing liquid solution (you can buy various preparations) and after a couple of days, washed again. Upon further inspection, I only saw 1 bug that I happily squished!! Must periodically inspect and occasionally wash. I don't know if that is what you're experiencing, but if so, it is much easier to treat when infestation is new (vs established). Good Luck!!