Just some additional thoughts. What is the outlet from the bio wheel filter.. ie the flow. Too high a flow can ravage their fins tissue which is a single cell thin. (I use sponge to slow it down or silk plants attached to outlet). Also, they can handle lots of salt during treatment, and adding 1/2 to one teaspoon per 10 gallon helps to keep them (my experience) free(er) from bacteria. It needs to be added slowly over time though. They have been so inbred that they are not at all as hardy as when I was younger and in my opinion need extra care. Plus the way they are shipped in a few teaspoon of water so on, they arrive highly stressed in medicated water. So, prone to bacteria. I have found that salt water dips, (aquarium salt of course) each day and fresh water changes helps a lot. I rescued bettas (ok did one more lately) and use to use meds but the salt water workes best even with the extremely hard to rid flexibar columinaris (which looks like stringy fungus but is bacterial). Or you can use a gram positive and gram negative med plus the salt. Use your hospital tank so as not to hurt plants, bio load. Take out all plants, salt treatment will kill. Use soft silk (large leaves better as they like to sit on or hide under when asleep).. Use 1/2 to 1 teaspoon per gallon for hospital tank, then each day tank him out with tub (plastic container and cover so he won't jump).. I lower lights place towel over container, (inside of larger incase he does jump) Then I slowly dribble additional salted water for a soak, while I clean his main tank. I have had fish recover nicely from this, but it took some work. Melefix will help with healing tissue after bacteria gone. I have found they can handle much larger salt loads, but am hesitant to suggest this, just watch for stress, ie frantic swimming. And go slow slow slow. Then reverse with his fresh (adjust to match) clean tank water until equal and gentle place him back in. I never use nets just cup them gently in containers. (there are pros and cons on salt but I've used it since I was a kid many decades ago, per Dr. Innes and no problems and much help. Has to be used properly though). ........................... from a forum The simple answer is that bettas do not like much salt in their water. Bettas will tolerate a certain amount of salt in their water; however, there is a limit. Salt will change the flow of water due to a change in the concentration. All fish will tolerate salt to some degree, but when there's too much they will dehydrate due to water flowing out of the creature. Saltwater fish have kidneys that allow them to expel excess salt while retaining their water. Freshwater fish do the opposite - they expel water because of the concentration gradient. When using salt, you should use it for specific problems or needs. If you don't know when it's right, do some research. For example, FishEnthusiast.com notes that: "Salt puts electrolytes in the water that stimulate production of the mucus coating that protects fish from infection. At the same time, it alters the chemical balance of the water, usually increasing the pH. Salt also helps inhibit bacterial growth at least the kind that seem to cause algal blooms in freshwater aquariums." Salt assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the buildup of nitrite (useful when setting up new tanks: 1/2 ounce of salt per gallon), and is effective against some parasites. However, it is a double-edged sword; there are also some downfalls. For example, some plants and fish species cannot tolorate salt. This yet another reason you should do a little research before treating a problem. It is NOT advised to use salt with scaleless fish, particularly cordydoras. These species are particularly sensitive to salt, and even a small amount can harm them. Also, tetras are fairly sensitive to salt. More useful information regarding salt: Salt in a Freshwater Aquarium Re: feeding, in nature when animals are really sick they often don't eat, much as people don't. The body is working immune system wise to repair and has more resources then you can imagine. But since you mentioned that he came alive with worms seems he might have been finicky (as they often are at first). Remember their stomachs are as small as their eyes. It is easy to overfeed, esp with dry food as it swells inside when wet. A small amount will do it. I feed a few pinchs of flake, chaning types for variety (live brine shrimp when I can find them, and Hakiri sterilized blood worms, as the live and non Hakiri always caused bacterial problems with any fish that ate them. They are grown in sewage like conditions and freezing does not kill the nasty bacterial or parasites. Hence Hakiri is three times sterilized (forgive my bad spelling). I feed a bit of vegetable matter in late afternoon to provide a purging of earlier meaty meal.)

These will be going in today, and barring the "call of the seed rack", should be the last for me. Allium Christophii Allium Heavenly Blue Amaranthus aurora Yellow Fountain Amaranthus gangeticus Elephanthead Calendula Calendula - Radio Candytuft Cathedral Bells Cup&Saucer Foxglove - South African Hyacinth Bean Marigold - Colossus Marigold - Mr. Majestic Marigold - Patula Marigold - Solon Marigold Scarlet Starlet Nasturtium - Strawberries and cream Nasturtium Empress of India Nasturtium Peach Melba Nasturtium Strawberry Ice Salvia - Lady in Red Ageratum - Leilani Blue Aster - astoria mix Aster - Crego mix Balsam Impatiens Balsam Impatiens Double Celosia - Maroon Cleome - pink Cleome - serrulata Cleome - Spinosa Cleome Rose Queen Cosmidium Phillipine Cosmos - orange Dahlia - Bishop's Children Dahlia - Delight mix Datura - Double black Datura - Double yellow Datura - white Ipomopsis Hummingbird Mix Lobelia Crystal Palace Melampodium Nicotiana Nicotiana - purple Snapdragon - Labelle mix Snapdragon - tall deluxe Verbena Amarilla Bidens Vinca - Stardust orchid Vinca - Stardust rose Vinca - Tropicana Bright Eye Vinca Rosea Zinnia - California Giant Zinnia - Cherry profusion Zinnia - mixed English Daisy Red Pomponette Kniphofia uvaria Torch Lily Maiden Pinks Brilliancy Perennial mix Polemonium (Jacob's Ladder) blue Bottlebrush bush - red Rose of Sharon

Glenda, steroid shots are a "fix," not a cure. Nothing is. I have had them twice. in my spine.. one month apart back in 2006. Haven't needed any since then, but they did not "cure" me of all of my spinal problems, but were a great relief for that situation. And In my opinion, age has nothing to do with it. I was 82 at the time. That shoulder pain won't go away, or it would have gone away by now, not just gotten worse. The numbing "shot":is no more than a pin prick. After that you will be relaxed and glad that you did it. You may feel a little light-headed when it is over; that is very temporary, if at all. Because my first shot was for my right leg, I had to have some one to drive me home. Second shot was for my left leg, I drove myself home. Since this is your shoulder, I would think it best to have someone drive you home. If you don't have it done, you will probably wish that you did, because it obviously won't get better on its own. Sue

Patti. So sorry to hear about all your mishaps. Hope your feeling better soon, if not better see the doc. It seems like when it rains, it pours. I was not as lucky as you getting your dryer fixed with a cheap repair. Our lawnmower took a c..p two weeks ago, was not going to be a cheap fix, it would be well over 500.00 to get it up and running again, and that didn't include labor which our son could do for us but hubby thought we should just get a new one, other one was 9 years old. I hated to, I hate spending big money. Oh well I guess that's how it goes. Hope the weekend goes better for you. Big hugs.