Dood,

There is nothing wrong with using peat. It is probably a major component of your container mix. Many of the old Citrus Forum gang (who have abandoned this forum) use CHC and peat. CHC:peat in 4:1.5 ratio works. An alternative that I use is CHC:peat:manure at 3:1:1 ratio.

CHC is a good element of container mix for a variety of plants prone to root rot. It virtually cannot be overwatered. The large particle size allows for excellent aeration of the soil. It holds a great deal of water. And it doesn't break down nearly as fast as pine bark.

Your soluble fertilizer is pretty close to the desired 5-1-3 fert ratio.

You mention stripes...is there a distinct inverted "V" shape to the yellowing? This is a sign of magnesium deficiency. A transient magnesium deficiency can develop in plants after transplanting to CHC, and this can be corrected with Epsom salts. In my trees, this occurs from the bottom up. It doesn't seem to kill the tree. This can be prevented by using epsom salts in the initial CHC wash. Calcium deficiency can also occur and can be corrected with a wash additive. Email me if you want a link describing how this is done. I don't know why you would have this using your other growing media.

You are right to suspect nitrogen deficiency, but the way I read your post, you now have 1) a container mix with slow release fert, 2) top-dressed with a citrus slow release fert, AND 3) you are using a soluble fert with watering. Could you be overdoing it? Maybe it is time for a soil flush?

Here is a link to what I think is a good page on citrus nutrition, both deficiencies and toxicities.

Here is a link that might be useful: Citrus nutrition problems

LaidBack..Since I only use soils on my citrus, I can't help answer the best time to water CHC's. Of what I read in previous posts, the reason for using them is to prevent overwatering.
I use a combo of all purpose soil, sand, and Perlite which works fine for me.
It's important, no matter which mediums you use, to let soil dry before watering.
Underwatering can cause problems, too. Leaves will yellow.
The finger test works fine w/soil, but I don't know how u test if you're using chips..Another way is lifting the plant..if the container feels heavy you can assume it's still wet, if light then it's time to water.

As for mineral defincincies, it's best to use an iron suppliment 2-3 times a yr as a prevative. I've been doing this over 10 yrs now, and my citurs never suffer chlorosis.

Also, in your first sentence you write, when you get a new plant you repot..that could be a problem, too..When you bring home a new plant perhaps you should wait before repotting. Adding new soil and fertilizer, (especially if they fertizlied at the nursery) may be a bit too much..Set the plant, give it time to accliimate to its new surroundings..Only then should you repot..Wait a while before fertilizing especially after a recent transplant.

Never double fertilizer dosage..especially if you're doing so regularly..all that will happen is plant will get salt buildup and it may be too much for the plant, especailly if days have been cloudy and citrus aren't getting appropriate light. Follow instructions. Never exceed dossage..
Is it winter or summer there?
If winter, it's best to stop or at least cut back..If it's summer proceed with feedings.
Citrus need all the sun you can offer.

I'd remove yellow leaves, give the plant a good shake. Disard dead leaves.

While you're at it, inspect for bugs. When working on plants, it's good to do a thorough check.
W/a little work your citrus should do well.
So, give good sun, water only when top 3" of soil feels dry, feed according to dossage, mist leaves, if trees are indoors, use a humidifer, and keep area clean.
Do not overpot..If the citus was in say a 10" pot, don't exceed over 14". Good luck, and Happy New Years..Toni

Thanks for your advice.Yes the leaves towards the top of the
tree are light green with the v shape you mention.The lower
leaves tend to be blotchy yellow.The leaves looked like that
a bit when i bought the plant mind.I have had the tree in
the pot two weeks and have fed it once with bounty (seaweed/
humus) soluble food.I havent actually fed it the new fert
yet.It is summer here now 22 c .i thought maybe the leaves
were being scorched by the sun.Something i have noticed with
this plant and previous is my moisture meter reads drier
around the outer parts of the pot but reads wetter around
the rootball.In fact it dries nicely outside the root Zone.
Any theories on that?The tree is about about a metre high
in a 27 cm terracotta pot.Should i just put a teaspoon of
epsom salts in with the soluble food next time i feed and let the mix become pretty dry or give it an iron tonic?
does having wet roots make the leaves turn yellow and drop?
thanks for any help

Laidback, over and underwatering can cause yellow leaves. Since you're using CHC's, you really should talk to the person who advised you to use them.
This is one reason I prefer soil to chips, I can stick my finger in the soil, if it comes out moist then I know it doesn't need water, if it comes out dry then the plant needs a drink.
Lb, the middle would remain wetter in the center if there's another type of medium added to CHC's..Like you said, you added container soil w/the chips. There's probably more soil around the roots..the soil takes longer to dry out than chips, therefore it'll stay wetter which is why you're getting that reading on your guage.
What reason did the woman at the nursery give when she said not to use peat? Toni

Hi Toni,thanks for your tips.The tree is not in chc chips.I
tried that with my last tree and i had the same issue,when
is it dry!All my other trees went into too big pots i think
so they stayed wet for long periods.When i bought this tree
i left it for a week before transplant into a container mix
which seems to drain ok.The whole tree,90 % from top down
looked a bit pale green.With some yellowing strips.The pot it
was in was about 20 cm,so i bought a pot of 27 cm,but when i
removed it the root ball was about 15cm,i think it had just
been upsized to that pot.The mix from the purchased pot was
very firm,so i think that is holding water more than the mix
i have surrounded it with.I will buy another plant soon,i
was thinking of completly removing the old medium with warm
water and plant in the fresh container mix i am using.
My present plant reads 2-3 outer parts of mix and 4-5 near
(wet) around the rootball.I had that happening before when i
used contaner mix in the past.
The lady just told me they dont like peat.maybe because peat
holds water really well a.
She advised to water with slightly warm water,i presume to
stimulate root growth.Anyway,i will let my tree go pretty
dry and the water with tepid water and give it a good feed
with a tablespoon of eposom salts,just in case its a magnesium defeciency.However,i put that in my chc/peat mix
before and the leaves still went yellow.I think its lack of
food and too much water,what do yer reckon.I spread the roots out at planting but have since read thats not a good
idea,made sense to me!!I have been misting daily and keeping
out of wind.I think its now in a slightly big pot,so i should space out the waterings a.It needs to dry around the
main part of rootball yes? cheers and thanks for your help
Happy new year to you and may 2006 bring me a settled citrus
tree in a pot!lol
p.s im growing a cherry tomatoe in a pot with just chc,nothing else and it seems happy! could i do that with a
citrus tree and just add a slow release fert?I have plenty
of chc chips.

Planting media(soil) for citrus should have good drainage. Water added to the top of the soil should disappear in a minute or less. Standing water kills. Don't repot until the roots are evident on the sides of the pot. Use the next up size pot. A small tree in a big pot will also die if the drainage is not the best. Frequent watering is not bad IF the soil drains very good and quickly.

Here is a link that might be useful: mrtexas

Laidback, I'm guessing since there was peat in the mix, she told you to use warmer water so it broke through the peat. If too much peat is used, more than other mediums, cold water won't absorb whereas warm will.
When u next repot, add peat but mix/divide w/black soil, sand and if you can find Perlite..I've been using this mix more than 20 yrs w/o problems and I've over 400 plants..
If your using a big pot, and soil isn't well-draining, then your plant is drowing..not only will it rot but wet soil and dry air attract bugs.Constant wet soil also invites fungus gnats. They're a pain ridding.
When you repot, check roots against pot. There shouldn't be more than 2" of space on all four sides between pot and roots. In other words that'd give you 8" of empty space.

How do the tomatoes in pots taste? I was thinking of trying just that this coming spring. I'd like to try the pot strawberry's and blueberry's also.
Laidback, I NEVER used CHC's so can't answer your question. I believe in potting in soils replicating trees that grow in Fl..

Laid if we lived closer, I'd make cuttings and we could learn to graft together..LOL..And a Belated Happy New Years, to you, too. Toni

Hi,thanks for both replies.I think my container mix is free
draining,it comes out the bottom of the pot pretty quick.i
have been sticking my finger in every day and getting some
strange looks from the mrs!!!I wouldnt mind taking a picture
and posting it here,how do i do that?
The advice on the next pot up,is very good.I will bear in
mind,when my next tree comes in two weeks=clementine mandarine.I will leave for a few weeks and then remove to see
the size of rootball and get the right pot.Should i tease the
roots out a bit into the new contaner mix that surrounds it?
With my existing vanilla orange,i am itching to feed
her!!!Was my idea of the right dose of souluble fert and a
teaspoon of epsom salts in with it a good idea,just in case
it is magnesium deficent? You mentioned giving it an iron
tonic,how long should i wait until i give it that? And Finally!!!How long before i see if the tree benefits from my
feeding(high nitrogen= n27 p=5.5 k=9)and watering schedule.
Seems like once a week water is the go at the summer temps
here of 23c.
P.s I have no garden but im growing runner beans,tomatoes(in pots too),chillis(in pots and ground)radish,spinach,cucumbers,melons(pots),Strawberries,
herbs.All in the flower beds around the house.I only grow
things i can eat !!!!lol Got two citrus in the ground.Feijoa
trees,ever heard of those?
Hope my potted citrus will go a darker green.Cheers

I find it easier to control moisture in container plants using a plastic, rather than terracotta pot. I suspect that's why your soil was dry near the edge of the pot and still moist near the roots.

It sounds like you are overly eager for your citrus to grow - trying to force rapid growth with lots of fertilizer and water may not be a good idea. Assuming your plant is potted when you get it (ie, not a tiny mailorder plant), rather than thinking of repotting in a few weeks, you should be thinking of repotting once a year.

Laidback, I agree w/Anne about over-fertilizing..If you do this all you'll get is spindly growth and/or the plant will die. Too much of any chemical is a no-no. Keep in mind, giving the plant as much sun as possible, feeding reccommended dose during growing season, approprate watering, a summer outdoors, misting when inside and heat is on, using a humidifer in winter, will keep your plant in good health and on the way to becoming a big plant.
There's also a hormone/vitamin called Superthrive, Laidback. I love this stuff..See if you can find it in your part of the world. I know they sell it nationwide. I talked to somone who lives in England and he said they even sell it in drugstores..lol..so look around..It's called Superthrive..contains hormones and 50 vitamins..Vit B is especially important to plants..Toni

Hi toni,managed to locate some superthrive here in Auckland.
Should receive in the next week or so.Tree is looking a little
better at the moment with no more leaf drop.How do i go about
posting a photo of my tree on this posting? Watering,once a
week and feed each time with "yates thrive all purpose"=
n-27 p-5.5 k-9. and add 2 teaspoons of epsom salts. Does that
sound cool to you? cheers

Laidback:
I read all of the advice above and here's my 2 cents worth:
It seems to me that you are killing your plant with kindness. I know I used to be like you. I want to do as much as I can so my plant would look like miss beauty instantly. But what is happepning is that your plant can not take all that fertilizers and much loving you are giving.
Here's my advice to you: You can take it or leave it.
First thing I'd do if I were you is to get to rid of all the fertilizers and salts that was built up all around your soil by taking your pot outside and wash it. Have your hose drip to your pot until it is draining freely at the bottom. And leave the hose there maybe 30 minutes or 1 hour until you think that and satisfied that you got rid of all the salts that was built up there.
Once you have taken care of this, since it is summer there put your plant in the shade for about 3 days outside till your plant is acclimated to the sorroundings. Then, gradually put it in the semishade 2 to days at a time until a week later you can put the plant in full sun. Remember your plant is still in shock so don't add fertilizer on it until you see new growth comes up. Your soil has enough nutrients for it to recover.
Now once you see new growth coming up add I repeat add only 1/4 of the recommended dose. Your fertilizer must be close to 5-1-3 (N_P_K). but make sure your fertilizer has this micronutrients added to it Fe, Zn, Mn, B, Cu, Mo, Cl, and Ni.This is very important. OK, I believe that once you drain all the toxins (fertilizers) in your soil your leaves will turn to normal (green) but wait, this will not take on right away perhaps 2 to 3 months. So leave your plants alone. Do not feed it or do anything to it except give some sunshine and humidity. If you don't see any progress -greening with your plant in a weeks time, repeat the process again-drench your soil again. When you water your plant try to use rain water or filtered water because the pH of that is slightly acidic which citrus love. It is a good idea to find out what is the pH of your faucet water because pH of your soil means a lot to your plant because too acidic and too alkaline is bad. The fertilizer and micronutrients are not available to the plants no matter how much you put. In fact it is toxic to the plants. It should be between 5.2 to 7.0 reading.
OK I'll stop here right now.
Please let me know the outcome in 2 weeks time.
Remember, be patient. Your plant response maybe gradual or maybe rapid.
Benny.

Hi to all folks here,
Reading so often about proper pot size makes me wonder if i'm just too lucky or pot size really doesn't matter. I bought a new satsuma in Febuary this year, about 3 feet high which came from nursery potted in very tiny and soft plastic pot with some clay soil in it. I purchased this 20" pot and mixed red soil granules 50%, peat 35% and pure river (construction) sand in amount of 15%. The tree has been exposed to about 6 h of sun and the rest of the day in a shade. It is pushing a lot of new growth (about 6") in only 1 month. Also, it produced over 20 flowers, but i removed almost all, except 5 flowers in order to taste it's fruit this year. It seems like oversized pot didn't do any harm, quite contrary, the tree is growing really nice and healthy. Triggered by this success i went and purchased a meiwa kumquat tree and did the same thing as i did on my satsuma. The tree is still dormant even thou it's getting warmer in tokyo these days. It looks like it will break it's dormancy soon, but according to info on these forums, kumquats take long time and many warm days to finally wake up and start growing. See what happens later. I hope my trees potted in oversized pots will survive. A few days ago i was lucky to find a special fragrant citrus native to okinawa island, its called "shikwasa". The closest translation would be a calamandine, but it's not really a calamandine. Does anyone have any experience growing this rare citrus? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Anton

Anton, about the pot size, I'd say you're lucky AND experienced. (S)
Most ppl tend to overwater, plus use heavy soils which eventually kill plants..This is why when ppl ask about pot sizes, I advise to go up a size or two.
You went up quite a bit but you're doing something right, otherwise your tree wouldn't have made it this long.
I know ppl who have overwatered plants of all types in small containers and managed to murder their poor greenery by giving them drink after dring..'of water that is.' LOL
This is why most nurseries suggest going one pot size up..I say 1-2 and use a well-draining soil that's not going to stay constantly wet.
I know what a Calamondin is but never heard of shikwasa. Sorry about that..Toni

Thanks Toni, your encouragment and input is truly appreciated. Anton

Anton, why don't you try a grafted tree instead of a dwarf? Toni

Hi Toni,
A grafted tree? My satsuma is grafted tree. My Shikwasa isn't grafted, but it wasn't even meant to be grafted. I have learned from a friend that shikwasa is actually a wild satsuma, a little lime-like fruit that 'started it all'. It's native to okinawa and is known to have 12 times more vit C and bioflavonoids than any other known citrus fruit (known in Japan only lol). Downsize is that it can't take any freezing so it should be kept indoors over winter time.
How many citrus trees do you have Toni? Yourself, Millet and Rickfeld seem to be most knowledgable citrus people on this forum. I have read many, many comments that you guys have made here which made my life easier when it comes to growing citrus. Actually, my first citrus died (i mean, i killed it) because of underwatering during winter time. The soil was parched when it was freezing cold as i thought dry soil is better in winter (how stupid of me). The poor tree dryed out completelly and died before i was able to do anything.
Anyways, I would love to ask you one more question about growing from seed, but i will post my question next time. Again, thank you for helping so many people here which helped me so much.
Cheers,
Anton

Hi Anton,
Sounds like your Shikwasa was around before many other citrus..That's interesting. I wonder how many millions of yrs its true age is..So,it originated at the 'southern' part of Japan? I'd like to see a pic if you have one.
Are you growing in a pot? If it's cold-sensitive then I guess it's imparative it's brought indoors early in the season or covered w/a blanket..Is this what you're planning on doing? And all those Vits!! Now I'm getting thirsty for citrus..LOL

Anton, don't feel bad cause your first citrus died..Citrus are not the easiest plants to grow. Most ppl kill a first or heck even second, and third plant..maybe more..You have to get a feel for watering and care, then you're all set..so don't feel guilty.
It's best to check soil w/your finger, a guage, or by lifting the pot. I'm sure you've read how to do this experiment, right?
Most ppl overwater, but underwatering comes in second or third, killing plants. What type of soil do you use?

How many citrus do I have? LOL, well at last count I had 20, but I just ordered more from a place in Fl. Citrus I've never grown before, so I'll give it a shot. The 3 are Australian Round lime, Bouquet Fleurs and Chinotto..Plus a variegaeted kumquat and Queen Orange.
Thanks for the compliment..I only advise on experinece w/my trees and what I read in plant books. And of course info here on GW plus I've gotten some help from both women I buy my trees from..they are very knowledgable..

Oh I wanted to mention, dry soil is best in winter, but there's a limit..LOL. If leaves look like they're wilting from lack of water, then water thoroughly. If possible, take to sink, fill w/water, then let plant sit in water about 20 mins. (this is only if plant is really dry) Otherwise water from the top as usual..Humidity is also important..I use a humidifer and 2 indoor fountains, plus daily misting..(especially in winter)

How many citrus do you now have? Which type? I'm sure your new citrus will do fine, especially now that you know when to water..again, don't feel bad cause your first citrus passed on to plant heaven. (S) Toni

Toni,
I will continue this hijacking of poor laidbackdood's thread...You've got many citrus that will need to remain potted, how old is your oldest citrus? I am curious about how you maintain your trees when they outgrow their current containers or their soils break down....do you just pot up? do you ever prune roots or true-growing foliage ( as opposed to suckers)? and if not how do you manage their eventual size...?

You'll love the Chinotto--tons of flowers, fruits like gangbusters, and they hang on the tree for a long time.

TIA.

Rick, the oldest citrus I had was a 13 yr old Meyers. But this is a sad story..I was so proud of that tree..it was growing in a 17" growing pot and had 22 lemons..well, in the winter of I think 2003 I got a gh for Christmas..the following yr I stupidly put the tree in the gh. Mind you, it had 22 full-grown, mature lemons and packed w/flowers..well, that winter the heater went out in my gh..I lost someting like 27 plants, I'm trying to blank it out, but since you brought up my oldest citrus it came to mind (S) I only have a pic on paper of it. The oldest of my citrus' now are between 8-9 yrs old..Kaffir, Meyers and Murraya. I've 3 kaffirs, 2 Meyers, and 2 Murrays, plus other citrus. Etrog, Satsuma, Key liime, Red Navel, Ponderosa, Hirado Buntan Pummello, CAlamondin, Persian, Moro Orange, Var lemon, and white grapefruit. I've also some smaller citrus and a Flying Dragon growing in my garden..3 yrs this summer. I just received another flying dragon and Poncirus... going to plant those in the garden, too..I'm hoping they're as forgiving as the Fd now growing in my gardens during IL winters.
Nope, don't cut roots, but do prune anything growing under graft line. (of course) I don't prune trees either.
Last summer I repotted all my citrus in pots from this place called Treequest.com .. Remember, I'm in IL, so my trees don't grow as fast as yours in Ca. And because of potsize, they don't grow as large either..or won't for a long time. I buy standard trees, not dwarfs.
Some citrus are indoors, others in the gh. The more cold-sensitive's now stay in the house..Like Keys. I learned my lesson the night the heater went out..I cried like a baby when that happened, I was devestated. And of course it happened on the coldest night of winter. NOt only did I lose citrus, but a 15+ yr old abutilion, a Passionvine I started from seed in 89, and so many others. A few citrus made it, and a clivia I started from seed in 82.
Since then, we figured out the problem w/the heater..and have resolved..never had that problem again.

What about you? What are you growing? Do you grow in containers or strickly ground? Toni

Hi Toni,
That really is too bad about your tree and other plants, I'm sure it must have been upsetting, sorry to hear.

The reason I asked is I am curious how others do things--I am beginning to feel climate makes a huge difference in management of containerized plants, and I don't mean just how frequently you have to water. Rather, I am interested in the management of the root systems, and I wonder how others keep plants in a relatively small space permanently. For me it's a bit different--if my tree just keeps getting bigger, so what?--they live outside permanently. But others often need to be able to haul them back and forth, and *usually* will have limited space in some capacity. I do get a lot of growth in the winter months and especially with your choice of standard rootstocks (I seek dwarf or semi), it must be either your climate or what you do, or both, that keeps them manageable. I suppose you could say I am interested in the semi-bonsai of the citrus plant, lol. So I think that rootpruning and possibly canopy pruning may be fairly important, actually, but that's just my opinion; plus, I am not really into production but rather health. What is your approach to old compacted soil held in and around the rootball?

How do your grapefruit taste? What's a Murray/murraya--orange jessamine?

I have way too many trees than I need, mostly in containers but maybe 7-8 in-ground. My favorites are lemons--Lisbon or Eureka--and limes, and gotta love mandarins around here--really very good. I recently started up with sweet oranges; I live in a fairly coastal climate and I will see how they do. I had my first home-grown Cara-cara oranges this year and the first a few months ago was kinda sour; had another just this last week and it was pretty good. Had my last Trovita and it was good, very juicy; still waiting on Lane Late and Shamouti.

Thanks for sharing your perspectives and experiences.

Hi guys,
Wow Toni! You have so many trees, that's awesome. Again, thanks for great info on over-wintering citrus trees.
I don't have nearly as many types and number of trees as you do and i envy you on that.
I have only 3 trees, all started withing last 6 months.
Meiwa kumquat, about 3 feet tall (still 'asleep' ), satsuma that i wrote about and my new 'pet' shikwasa citrus tree, but it's a baby tree, about 1.5 feet tall. All trees are potted. I also have one citrus that i have no clue what is it, it was a small tiny 6" inches plant when i got it from my motherinlaw. It is still growing in 4' inches little pot with shooting new shoots once in a while. This tree is my experimental tree. I mean, if i will give any kind of supplement or a chemical to other trees, my dwarf experimental tree has to be the first one to try it and in amount that exceeds recommended dosage. It survived all my experiments. This is the last weeks' experiment that i did with this dwarf citrus in order to see if it works so that i can apply it on my real 'pets' (sorry, can't help it, gotta call them my pets 'cause thats what they really are lol).
So, this is what i did: i made a vitamin/mineral coctail in a 1.5l pet bottle. I filled up the half bottle by clean, filtered water. Then i added 4grams of vit B complex (turned the water all orange), 150 mg of iron complex tablets, 4 grams of magnezium, 4 grams of zink and shaked the bottle until it dissolved. Iron always falls to the bottom of the bottle as it can't really dissolve so it stays there like some kind of sand.
So, the next thing i did, i gave my dwarf citrus an overdosed drink of this vit/min drink. After only 5 days i noticed the plant is starting new flash growth even thou it has just finished with one flash growth already. No damage of any kind was noticed due to an overdose, quite contrary, the plant seemed like it liked it. Encouraged by this success i went and gave this same drink to all my blueberries (potted and kept outside in my small backyard), to my persimmon tree (potted in 20" pot), my fruit cherry tree and my baby rasberries. All plants seemed to have benefited from this drink and i'm planning to repeat this in about 2 months again.
Yes Toni, i use only real soil for all my plants. I also have an aloe vera (3 plants) which i use for, believe it or not, salad. The whole leaf can be eaten raw with salads and then it's laxative tendency seemed to be overcomed, and it's bitter taste gets camouflaged with dressings and other veggies.
However, not all plants get same type of soil. I make my own mixes and its usually red soil granules, river sand and peat in different relations, depending on what is it for. Exeption from red soil are my blueberries as they only get rotten leaves forest soil mixed with peat and then heavy pine needles mulch on a top (they produce quite heavy crop considering the fact that they grow in pots).
Sorry, i wondered away from the main topic here, citrus trees. Yes, i'm totally hooked on these beautiful citrus trees.
Oh, almost forgot to mention my meiwa kumquat seedlings, they are doing great, got 5 of them left.
About shikuwasa, the latin name is citrus depressa and it has some rare ingredient which has been a subject of anti cancer research for the past few years. This citrus has become my number one priority.
Have a nice day and lots of fun with your citrus kingdom at home lol.
Anton

Oh yes, it was a vast dissapointment when losing so many plants..I cried and cried. And it was so da#### cold out, I thought my tears would ice up. But it's over, and I had to start anew..Then again, those citrus in the house were fine..Now I'm careful what goes in the gh even though the problem is resolved.
What happened was, there wasn't enough oxygen due to lack of ventilation, therefore knocking out the flame in the heater. That night was the coldest of the yr.
I still have the buddha's hand and etrog, but since then, it's never grown the same..in fact, I might check them off my list this summer and tag them dead. I detest winter w/a passion.
My body adapts to heat, not cold..60 and 70F is too cold for me. I'd like to move to a warmer location one day..I also raise birds..I'd bet they'd like warmer temps, too..

Rick, yes the Murraya is Orange Jasmine, which, btw, isn't a jasmine but related to citrus. It fruits yr round..got some red berry's now, but I've never tasted them..To be honest, I give my fruit away..I'm not a lemon or lime lover so I usually give fruits to ppl who enjoy them..I grow citrus more for my love of them. Their beauty. Also, because I use chemical fertilizers I refuse to eat anything that's treated..
IN summer when I grow veggies, I do NOT use chemicals..no fertilizers of any type..I'm talking tomatoes, green peppers..I do eat of these veggies, but again, I don't use anything, and they do just fine.

Anton, I'd bet soon you'll have a few more citrus added to your collection..LOL..they're addictive. But your one citrus captured my curiosity...that'd be great if it really cured cancer. Reminds me of that movie where this scientiest in Africa discovers a cancer cure from the plant Bromiliad..Anyone ever see it? It's really good.

Rick, I've a webiste w/a pic of my Murraya. Just click on my name and scroll down a bit..I've got hundreds of plants that I grow indoors, and the gh, 1/4 of the plants I have.

Plants and pets are my two loves. I live for nature..even biking in the forest near my house and just looking at deer, etc, and so many weeds that are so pretty..(as long as they're not in my yard, lol)

Rick and Anton, do you grow any other types of plants? If so, what type? Do you guys have pics? Toni

Hi Toni, here i will try now to upload some pictures of my citrus trees.Hope it works.
Nope, couldn't do it, how do you upload pictures here?
Anton

Yeah grow a few other things...pomegranates, olives, strawberries last year but I am rippin those out; various cooking herbs with a few types of mint, and lemongrass that just bit the dust--time for another; Michelia alba; a few types of guavas--tropical, cattley and pineapple; saffron; freesias; amaryllis; blueberries; calla lilies; an unknown type of bamboo; some sort of stapelia and epiphyllum I got in a trade; Passion fruit; figs (new); loquat (new) and ice cream bean plant (new); red currants I fully expect will not do well; American gooseberry (ditto); Christmas cactus; a red crassula; camellia sinensis and japonica; mango--flowering now; a couple of azalias; plum, apples, pear, peach and persimmons in the ground that I ignore, in addition to the citrus; a few tomatoes, peppers and eggplants in the summer, a few other random things that don't make any sense...planning on coffee arabica, maypop, and I want some cotton seeds. And yes, I do realize I am breaking USDA zone rules. I use tons of manufactured/synthetic fertilizers...well not quite tons...I'm sure that my blood lead levels are entirely inappropriate :)

Anton, which site are your pics on now? I only know how to trasnfer if using Yahoo or MSN. Do u have either?

Rick, you too have a lot of plants..Do you grow all these plants indoors, a gh or outside? (yr round) I'm going to order a fig tree this yr and try growing it outside..hope it's hardy enough.
For some reason I cannot grow azalias outside..I have 4 in pots, which do great, but not in the garden. What do u think I'm doing wrong? Toni

All outside.

Azaleas are very little maintenance for me. I essentially ignore them too except give them some water and Miracid occasionally and they are not growing in the blazing sun. Are they hardy enough for where you live? I have no idea. Do you think it's your soil? Good luck with them.

Rick, yep, they're hardy..I can keep Azalias and their cousins Rhododendrons living anywhere from 1-5 yrs but they then die.
Florist azalia aren't hardy here but can take cool temps. Not below freezing, though I do keep outside until first frost to promote buds which appear about Oct through May. Toni

Sure Toni, let's somehow exchange email addresses and exchange some photos, i would really love to see your potted and inground citrus trees (and of course all other trees that you have). My email is:
anton520b(at)hotmail(dot)com
Hope to hear from you soon,
Sincerely, Anton :)

Anton, if you click on my name, where it says hopefulauthor, you can send me an email..also if you scroll down a bit, my website addy is listed. When you click on my webiste, I've got plants listed like citrus, succulents, etc. My various aloes are also listed. and of course citrus trees..but not all are displayed..I have to update my pics when I take them outside. Let me know if you can find them..
You can also start an email..Do you have a website? Toni

Shiikwaasaa is used to make a type of juice that is very healthy. It is very sour and is used in Ryukyuan cooking like a lemon or a lime. I am Okinawan and in my culture we have many types of native citrus that grow in the mountains. Other types were brought in from China.

Carlos, I don't want to sound ignorant, but which nationality is Okinawan? Are you Native American?
Also, what is Ryukyuan? Toni

No problem. We are not native American. Ryukyuan is an uncoomon term for the indeginous people of the Ryukyu Islands (Currently grouped in Japanese language as Yaeyama, miyako, Amami Oshima, Yonaguni, and Okinawa) which are north Of Taiwan, East of southern China, and South of Japan. Okinawan, or "Uchinanchu" in the Okinawan language, refers to the people who are from the main island which we call "Uchinaa" and the Japanese call "Okinawa". The Ryukyu isalnds are now a part of Japan but were once the prosperous Ryukyu Kingdom which had closer relations with China than Japan. Ryukyuan culture and language are very different from Japanese culture and langauge and is dying out because the Ryukyuan culture has been opressed and modified to meet Japanese needs which sadly look down upon cultural diversity. Okinawa island was also the site of the Battle of Okinawa in WW2 where 1/3 of the population perished and the ancient capital and cultural center of Shuri completely demolished.

Because of the strong cultural influence from China, many plants from there were brought to the Ryukyu islands including Hibiscus, peony, and citrus species. Garden styles in the ancient capital of Shuri on Okinawa island were copied after Chinese ones and featured Chinese plants and garden styles. There are also many native plants such as camellias, one species o which is intensely fragrant, azaleas, the Taiwan flowering Cherry, and certain types of impatiens. In the outer Ryukyu islands today, many people still live as farmers.

There are many hurricanes (more than forty in one year have been recorded) that strike the Ryukyu islands every year. When my mom was a girl on her home isalnd of Kumejima, the hurricanes would wipe out everything because she lived by the ocean, so she would travel into the mounatins and pick the wild tangerines and live off of those. She also recalls wild kiwi, blueberry-like plants, shiikwaasaa, raspberries, and currants growing wild in the mountains and were often her only source of food.

I am sorry this is so long, and i hope it answered ur question which apreciate you asking. Carlos

I am also glad that hopefulauthor asked that question. Your answer has prompted many hours of research and reading on my part -- I had already read a lot about the people of Hokkaido and been fascinated by their story (one of my housemates in college came from that region), but Carlos, your beautifully worded and concise description of your Ryukyuan heritage offered me a glimpse into a part of the world I have never really known and offered enough information to let me explore more on my own. I am delighted to have discovered another culture to explore. Thank you!

Man brings back memories. i used to live on Okinawa. 3years in the U.S.Air Force. Stationed at kadena Air Base. Shekwasha was my fav. drink. Used to drink it like water.