Pachypodium can be watered heavily and frequently during warm weather, so unless they are not in the sun or the soil does not drain properly, overwatering is not the problem.

It's hard to tell from the picture, it looks like some lower leaves are shriveled and dry, maybe not enough water? Are you fertilizing adequately? What type of soil are you using? Is it in full sun? Did you bring it out into the sun too quickly without acclimating it?

If you treat your Pachypodium like a tomato plant, you will do fine. I water mine daily and fertilize weekly, they stay outdoors in their pots during the summer. When weather cools and leaves drop, I stop watering. Clay pots are not necessary.

I forgot to mention that earlier in the week the leaves first turned yellow, which made me think it was overwatering. It was only the last couple days that they started to shrivel.

The soil is homemade that I get from a garden store in my area. It's very fast draining and I use it with every succulent and cacti I have. As for fertilizer, I use the Shultz Cactus & Succulent food when ever I water during growth time. It could probably use a couple more hours of sun then it gets, but im still in a bit of a situation with that aspect. So far everything else is doing very well in the same area, so it makes me think it might not be a light problem.
Is there a better fertilizer that I should be using? I will start to water it like I do with my euphorbia milli's, cause they drink a lot more water then most of my other succulents and it took me a bit to realize not to be to careful with them ^^

I have pachypodiums (I've had them about 8 years) and they are pretty tolerant of watering, in either direction. For me leaf yellowing and dropping seems to occur off and on without regard to season or watering and it doesn't hurt the plant. They just rest a while and then make more.

I just repotted mine this spring and they are now looking great, lots of leaves, and I'm only watering every couple of weeks, but they're in a sunroom with plenty of heat but not a lot of sun this time of year. They are in clay pots with a very gravelly soil. If the plant body is firm and not mushy then the plant is still ok and you might want to try the repotting now. That's what seemed to really perk mine up. The size of the root ball will determine the size of pot. Use a pot only slightly larger than the root ball, same as with most succulents.

Birdsfoot, What ever you are doing I think everyone else should follow your lead. All plants drop leaves once in a while, those may be just the left over dormant leaves.
I see fresh new leaves coming out from the top of the plant in the picture. The base of the plant looks wonderful. I would lightly fertilize after you water or use 9 mo. Osmocote Too much water can cause leaves to drop. Norma

One interesting aspect I have noticed about Pachys and watering: the body/stems will get a little soft when they need water. It can be tough to tell if it is soft from rot or just in need of water. In my experience, soft/rot is a fast progressing problem whereas soft/thirsty is more gradual. Also, soft/rot may only be concentrated in one spot wheras soft/thirsty is generally uniform on the entier body and branches.

I bring this up because Im the guy who always defaults to under watering, and Ive seen this happen to several of my plants. Ive come close a few times to cutting into plants that were perfectly healthy, just a little thirsty.

By mid-May my Pachys in pots are taken out of the greenhouse and are left among the annuals, outdoors, exposed to all the elements, they get fertilized weekly with dilute 24-8-16 liquid fertilizer and in the soil mix is Osmocote 15-9-12 with minors, along with dolomite for added magnesium and calcium.

My P geayi, lamerei and saundersii respond with tremendous growth, constant new leaf growth, and fat trunks. The leaves only turn yellow in the fall, then they drop, the plants come indoors and stay leafless until the next spring.

The only exceptions to these rules are P namaquanum, which typically is dormant during the summer, and P brevicaule, which likes water all year and has a short dormancy. I've had these plants for over 10 years from seedlings, so I have come to understand them quite well in my conditions.

My potting mix is simple: 50-50 perlite and topsoil, they are best slightly underpotted. P namaquanum has taken frosts down to 28F, the others I have taken down to 30F during the winter with only P lamerei showing some damage to the stems, but the frosted tips end up branching out so it's not such a bad thing.

At this time of year I water them daily unless it rains. I think we tend to be too cautious with watering. In nature, Pachys are opportunistic and this fact should be taken advantage of in culture by giving them plenty of water and food for healthy growth.

Find an inexpensive Pachy seedling at Home Depot and experiment a little, see what happens when they are watered and fed well during warm weather, you may be pleasantly surprised. Many succulents like lots of water and food during warmth. Agaves also respond well to this, as do Adenium.

Many succulents only need to endure a brief dry dormancy in nature, the rest of the time conditions are good for sustained plant growth.

Thanks for all the advice everyone! One last thing I'm wondering now, specifically for xerophyte, are the fertilizers you use commonly available at garden stores? I am quite ignorant on the meaning of the numbers, tho the Osmocote sounds like it might be a brand name? Also, is the fertilizer like you recommended good for most succulents?

Thanks again ^^
Ross