How can I help my cacti that i over watered and root/base when limp
Akerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years ago
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mold or fungus on cacti/succulent roots and soil? help!
Comments (19)I came across your post because I was searching mold on aloe plants. I just bought an aloe plant last weekend at lowes with an assortment of succulents that came potted together. I seperated all the succulents and divided my aloe plant into three little plants. I used clear plastic drinking cups to start off all the plants and repotted with miracle grow potting soil making sure to put holes in the bottom of all the cups a least 5-7 holes) All my other plants are doing great but I noticed, being that the cups are clear that the same green mold on your aloe plant is growing in all three cups of my aloe. None of the other plants have it. Only the aloe... Right now anyway. Since these have been divided and don't have much root development will the suggestion in your feed about the peroxide harm the plant or do you think it should be fine to use this method? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks...See MoreCan't get mint to root in water no matter what I try!
Comments (8)find the edge of the root mat or mass ... sharpen your shovel.. and whack some roots off.. blast them with the hose.. and you will probably find a couple hundred plants.. rootlets .... and go from there .. i just don know why you would try rooting the branch ... or frankly.. why you want more mint.. but all the power to ya.. took me 3 years to eradicate it out of my garden ... but again.. all the power to ya.. have fun ... ken...See MoreHow often should I water my Peace Lily & what else can I do for it?
Comments (10)That PLs are usually found in riparian settings (streamside or in boggy environments) where they naturally occur is absolutely no cause to believe they will do well in boggy soils. They adapt well to various types of water culture, and perform very well in fast-draining, well-aerated soils, but should be expected to perform poorly when asked to make the transition in soils from lengthy periods of significant saturation to times when the soil has dried down and become reasonably well-aerated and more hospitable to the plant. The reason, as has been pointed out, is the fact that the plant will grow roots structured to allow the plant to deal with one or the other set of conditions, but not both in a cycle that starts with a long period of saturation transitioning to the more appropriate moist (rather than wet or soggy) medium. How well a soil drains is determined almost exclusively by the size of the particles it is comprised of. While the arrangement you have with the pot sitting above the effluent in the collection saucer is commendable, it has no impact on how well the soil drains or its level of aeration. 1. How often should I water? Intervals will vary with season, light load, amount of air movement, ....... Unless you use a soil that allows watering on a schedule as opposed to on an 'as needed' basis, and yours doesn't, you should absolutely stick to watering only when the plant gets dry to the point it needs water. In fact, in spite of the stress it would create, it would actually be better if you waited for this plant to exhibit signs of the first stage of wilt before you water than to water before the plant need it. I'm not advocating using drought stress indicators to signal the plants need for water - just trying to establish a feel for the idea that a little under-watering is less limiting than over-watering. For this plant, marking your watering date on the calendar and OCCASIONALLY waiting for the first signs of wilt to establish appropriate intervals between waterings is a reasonable strategy. If you'd rather, buy a wooden birch dowel rod (1/4 or 5/16") from a hardware or big box store. Cut into appropriate length pieces for your plants, sharpen the ends with a pencil sharpener, and use the pieces stuck deep into the pot as 'tells' that will let you know the moisture conditions deep in the pot. If they come out wet or stained dark from wet soil, withhold water until they come out clean. MUCH better than "watering gauges/meters". 2. What else can I do for this plant? The answer to that could easily fill a book. You could try reading this (click on link). I read someplace that liquid fertilizer once a month is good too. Yay or nay on that? To be meaningful, any advice regarding frequency of fertilizer applications has to take into consideration your soil choice and watering habits. For example, if you water in small sips to avoid your MG soil remaining soggy too long, a one month interval at the regular rate is an automatic problem for more than one reason, and the type of fertilizer as well as its NPK %s both play a part in determining the criticality of the issue. If you're using a soil that allows you to water at will w/o the need to fear consequences centering on the fact the soil will be saturated for a length of time measured in weeks, you can actually fertilize at low doses every time you water, which is how I choose to fertilize all my plants during the winter. One type of soil (those that are very water-retentive, like yours) make it almost impossible to maintain control over effective nutritional supplementation; other types of soil that support little or no saturation make establishing and maintaining a sound supplementation program monkey easy. Al...See MoreHow I Water Plants I Cant Water
Comments (5)I think you're overthinking this & making things too difficult. I hear you about limited funds, but pls. just change the mix for this plant. Kals are strong, sturdy plants, they can handle it fine. Aerial roots aren't necessarily the signs of thirst you think they are, many of us simply ignore them. I do not take their presence as indicator to water the plants, sometimes I think them plants use it to anchor themselves. Perhaps you might buy fewer plants so you can afford to buy enough mix. In your first pic -- why do you think the plant is thirsty? The leaves are plump w/ water, & not at all wrinkled, therefore those aerial roots are not about thirst. You need to pls. learn to water moderately while still in the peat as Rina suggests. Sorry, I don't wish to be a downer but I believe what you're doing is ineffective, just water the poor thing, even if in peat, as Rina said, just not a lot of water. Peat mixes don't immediately harden when you water & they don't turn rock hard automatically, it's over time, so you can check it periodically. Sometimes it's helpful not to take everything one reads quite so literally. In my opinion, watering the peat plant moderately is preferable to what you're doing....See MoreAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5 thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5
7 years agoKara 9b SF Bay Area CA
7 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoAkerman Flooring, LLC (NH)zn5 thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
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