I think a lot depends on what you are trying to achieve also. Some ambiguity with the term "border hedge". Don't know if their are clear cut definitions for either, but generally when I think of a "hedge" I think of a planting to either screen out an unpleasant view, mark a boundary, or create a windbreak or some such utilitarian function as that. A "border" connotes some type of significant feature unto itself. That's not to say a hedge has to be or even should be unattractive, but the emphasis is on function. If you are trying to to create a real eye catching pleaser, I would again say- mix it up for maximum year round interest. If you are merely trying to create a sense of coziness or block out an unpleasant view- something simpler might be nice. If there is anything unattractive to be seen above the hedge line, consider that the busier it is the more your eye will be drawn to that area. Also, consider whether there are other focal points or beds in your yard that you might be distracting attention away from unintentionally. A uniform planting will draw the eye up and down its length but allow it to wander in other directions more easily. A mixed planting will more rigidly fix the eye and call other things in the same general direction into view. Another factor is the distance from which it will be seen. A mix of plants that might be interpreted as a "mish mash" when seen from 60 feet away, will work just fine in a narrow corridor of space between two houses where only a couple of plants can be seen from any given angle at a time anyway. And if I'm standing or walking right next to a 6 ft border I'm more likely to focus on the hedge and not the eye soar behind it than if I am viewing it from a distance. Others may have different design philosophies, but hope that helps. I suppose you might combine both feature AND function into something that might VERY aptly be called a "border-hedge" and if that is the intention, just make sure that your function is met consistently across. For instance, if its privacy or traffic deterrence, make sure everything is sufficiently twiggy or dense to accomplish that. If you want to say "this is the edge of my property", a mixed planting can do it, but a single species planting might say it more loudly and clearly, particularly when viewed from afar. In the case of a true "border-hedge" that will be seen from afar, the aforementioned unifying plant (like the Cherry Laurels) is an excellent suggestion for cohesion. Though it doesn't necessarily have to be arranged in such a way that might be discribed as a hedge behind a border. You could "weave" a low growing unifier thru the entire length of the planting in a varety of patterns (more or less formal) as desired. I believe unifying the planting in this way would give you much greater freedom to be less repetitive (if at all) with the rest of the plant material- however you will want to strike a balance thru foliage colors and shapes,...

Vcreed - I wouldn't suggest forsythia of any kind for a formal hedge as its growth pattern is informal, even F. Sunrise which is supposed to get to 6' x 6', a bit smaller than many. Forsythia is a plant that looks pretty awful when pruned IMO, particularly since it doesn't grow back evenly and ends up with holes and awkward branches. If you can find a variety than stays small enough to not need pruning and you don't mind leaving it to its natural growth pattern instead of making it boxy, it would be a good choice for a hedge. Most of the varieties I could find are either a bit tall (5'-6') or a bit small (2'-3') for your wishes. Heed the warnings about yew and deer. Nothing is nastier looking than a totally defoliated shrub with all the small twigs also gone. I live in a rural area and there are a fair number of deer, but the only plants they have ever bothered really are yew (completely bare and only larger branches almost all of the time) and toad lily. If you have any real deer problem, this won't be a hedge at all, and having to replace that many shrubs would be expensive. Otto Luykens isn't hardy for me so I can't comment. I'll add to the folks who like Fotherilla. I have Mount Airy in a variety of places around my property. Healthy leaves, interesting flowers before the leaves with nice mild honey scent, moderate growth rate for me, and stunning autumn color. It doesn't mind clay subsoil or sandy soil (I have it planted in both.) Mine were planted as 8" cuttings and now (6 years later) are in the range of 3' tall and wide. If planted larger, they'd make a nice hedge by now. In one spot they get snow shoveled onto them from the path by the back door and they do just fine. Look into dwarf red twig dogwoods if you want winter interest. Arctic Sun (Cornus sanquinea 'Cato' ppaf')and Arctic Fire (Cornus stolonifera 'Farrow' ppaf) both get to about 4'. AS has gold shading to red orange towards the tips in winter and AF has red twigs. They both have a low-key green appearance during the spring and summer, but AS has nice bright yellow fall color as well. Flowers are white, but pretty unobtrusive. Periodic pruning of some of the stems to the ground will keep the winter stem color bright, but isn't required to maintain your view. In some areas shrub dogwoods may have disease issues but not everywhere, so check with a local folks who would know if this is a problem in your area.

I'm sure a lot of what I have to say is remedial to your level of experience, but have included some of it for the less advanced. Have you tried smothering? In addition to newspaper, which is not up to the task of smothing some of the things you mentioned, I use sheet metal when/where I can. If it's still not heavy enough, put a few cinder blocks on it. That's one of my fav ways to reclaim ground from tough perennial pests. I feel your pain about your list, I've battled all of those except winter creeper. Of the remaining list, metal would smother all with the possible exception of the ivy. It would be likely to be difficult to smother the entire entity with 1 piece, and definitely strong enough to exploit the seams/cracks between pieces. Cutting it off as low as possible when it starts to flower would help. The more flush with the ground any smother is, the more effective. The most common mistake is disturbing it before everything is well and truly dead. Using a straight shovel to chop around the smother area is also helpful, so you know nothing under the smother is still connected to anything able to thrive outside of it (and sustain roots under the smother, keeping them alive much longer than necessary.) For all of your list, keep an eye on areas not yet under control. Even if you're only able to battle an area with mower or weed trimmer occasionally, when you see flowers should be one of these occasions, to prevent those flowers from making/dropping the new crop of seeds. Also, learn/know your tree sprouts. You'll probably soon recognize 2-4 kinds of tree sprouts that occur often in your yard. The sooner they are pulled, the more easily they come out. Once they are too established to pull, baby trees are very hard to get rid of. Some trees are more difficult to garden under than others. I shall start no more gardens under maples or oaks. Life's too short to pull that many sprouts. My Mom let spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) and asparagus fern (A. sprengeri) loose in her yard and you can definitely add those to this list. I don't like to chase plants, or 'keep them in bounds' at all, nor do I enjoy pampering/dividing, generally maintaining plants besides adding organic matter to where they are growing, so have evolved to a point where there's basically just shrubs and bulbs, some nectar plants for butterflies and hummers. The term 'ground cover is always a keyword for "will try to take over the world." Don't let these loose in the ground unless you really DO want to COVER the ground. Suckering is another warning term. That means an entity starts new versions of itself from the roots, either adjacent to the main trunk/mass, or sometimes shockingly far away. Passiflora vines can make suckers so far away, chills will run down your spine (what's it doing UNDER THERE?!) You've probably noticed the berry vines can do that too. At least they provide a short flush of very yummy...

Yes, we are Sunset 3B here.... The sunshine on most days and temps in summer is the reason so much agriculture grows successfully here. Of course, they irrigate. I am surprised Wenatchee is the same zone as us, but I guess it doesn't take into account the amount of snowfall they get (They are probably the -15f extreme.. we are more like -5f.) RE: the suitability of the trees I listed, The Thornless Honeylocust seems to thrive here, it does well in alkaline soil and is drought tolerant. As a prairie tree, it thrives in full sun. I have noticed many honeylocusts in yards that do not irrigate, growing just fine... The list of negatives of the tree is pretty short, and it seems very adaptable to our conditions. Linden -- RE: irrigating, I don't know. We will have some lawn on the property, so a tree/trees in that area would get more water. Linden tolerates alkaline soil and has small leaves... Thus, it seemed to be an *option.* ash -- I still have to go to our local extension office.. I will ask them about borers here. Ash also tolerates alkaline soil and was another option for my lawn area. If the borers are that bad here, I won't consider it.