Shade tolerance for aloes, agaves etc?
vocal1
14 years ago
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wantonamara Z8 CenTex
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Drought-tolerant, shallow-rooted, full sun annuals over bulbs?
Comments (12)Crocosmia, I have also had the same problem as you in that bulbs do better in the center of my beds than along the edges. Mine are all interplanted with perennials and even shrubs. I think that this provides them better drainage. I have learned to live with the occasional (well actually fairly frequent) slicing of the bulbs by my shovel. My daffodils are planted in circles or semi-circles, or behind many of my daylilies, especially those that are seen from some distance. The daylilies do a great job of hiding the dying daffodil foliage. I try to leave some room for growth of the daylilies, but in any case the daylilies seem totally unperturbed by the bulbs, even though I am unlikely to give them the foot of space :~) that at botanical garden might - I garden in a small area & everything is crammed. Some orange daylilies I like are Backdraft (orange with red eye), Egyptian Spice (amber orange blend) Orange Velvet, Orange Vols, & Tuscawilla Tiger. There are lots more available! Most of my daffodils, however, are planted around in my red daylily/shrub bed at the back of my yard. In my small orange daylily bed I used a different method that you might find interesting. I use minor bulbs all in shades of blue. Smaller bulbs like Ipheon, Scilla, Chionodoxa, Iris reticulata & such can go much closer to other plantings and only need to be planted 3-4 inches deep. I actually planted all the bulbs when the bed was first made and the daylilies had not been chosen yet, poked them in with my finger. I then partially buried upside down nursery pots in the bed to mark the daylily spots and let the bed rest until the following spring when my daylilies arrived in the mail. It was a sheet of blue in the spring. Many minor bulbs can also go in shade areas around hostas for example which come up very late. If the shade is from deciduous trees, these bulbs can easily finish their cycle, and get enough nourishment to bloom and spread around, before the trees are leafed out. So look around at all those areas too and plant more bulbs! Don't overlook miniature daffodils they can be tucked in here and there and everywhere and the foliage disappears so much faster than full-size daf foliage. Please see my pictures in the thread Tulips return. Over the tulips in the first picture, I usually plant portulaca as someone in this thread mentioned, or some other low water annual. I am always afraid I'll do something stupid and these perennial tulips (still going strong in 4th spring) won't come back for me. Most tulips are strictly annuals in my garden. I also have the tulip area edged in Blue Fescue Grass, and use the small blue Sedum sieboldiana and blue Myrtle spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites) & other dry plants like Geum coccineum borisii (bright orange which you would really like) which do not thrive in my dense wet clay, except in this raised gravel bed. Blue and orange is one of my favorite combinations! And while there aren't many cold zone early spring bulbs in orange, there are plenty of blue, whites & yellows. Tried a pretty in-between size daffodil this year called Bantam that you might like. It's a very neat & compact bright yellow daffodil with a ruffled orange edge on the cup. There are many others with this color, but the size is more unique. Oh, and there are lots of hardy lilies that come in orange, can't forget them. Anyway have fun! Sorry this is so long, I get carried away when I get enthused about things. LOL...See Moreagaves under trees? other suggestions?
Comments (13)hosenemesis, thank you. It is a labor of love but very rewarding. In fact I just got notified that I won an award from my city's beautification committee for another garden I made for the neighborhood, so I'm feeling proud, and motivated! :) I am looking into all the trees mentioned. I should have said that the requirements are: up to 20' tall (power lines), evergreen, dense for sound blocking, full sun and can tolerate a hot, dry site with winter rain. And low litter! They also need to be available in a 24" box ideally, though 15 gallon will work and I need about 22 of them! Wish I had a wholesale license as this is going to be very expensive, but I think it's worth doing right - with a bit of luck I can find someone who might sell them to me for cost, or near that? And if I get a grant, so much the better. I have got nonprofit status through the city's parks trust, so donations are tax deductible. Here's the list I have compiled so far: any comments on them? Acacia baileyana Acacia pendula Acacia salicina Callistemon citrinus Callistemon salignus Callistemon viminalis Cercocarpus betuloides Dodonaea viscosa 'purpurea' Fremontodendron 'california glory' Juniperus chinensis Juniperus chinensis 'torulosa' Juniperus scopulorum varieties Leptospermum laevigatum Melaleuca armillaris Melaleuca decussata Melaleuca ericifolia Melaleuca nesophila Nerium oleander Pittosporum phillyraeoides Prunus ilicifolia Rhus lancea Sophora secundiflora...See MoreFrost tolerances
Comments (24)For tropical species, I believe a plant actively pumping juice is much more tolerant of brief cold + wet in the fall than in the spring. Several nights of cold should not have much if any impact especially if it warms up during the day. Chilly fall evenings do not worry me. 3 chilly days in a row with rain would worry me. Winter growers are generally much more tolerant of cool wet conditions and some will even thrive. I know I've said this before, but the best way to figure out what your plants can handle is to experiment with sacrificial specimens. Get some cuttings to root during the summer, and leave them out in the cold and rain and see how they fare. There is another way to end the shuffle without moving to California or South Africa. Just accept the fact that tropical and subtropical species will not grow as quickly and not gain as much biomass than they would somewhere else. And more importantly, come to the realization that this is not a bad thing - an extended dormancy does not have to negatively impact the health and vitality of the plant. Just bring them inside when the time is right, and leave them there. If that happens to be next week, then call it a day and let them sleep. How much would you really gain with a few more days of warm sun anyway? Maybe pick a handful of your favorites and shuffle them while leaving the rest inside. Don't drive yourself nutty. x...See MoreDrought tolerant plant choices
Comments (37)i like your plant choices ! i am quite enamored of ceanothus ssp at the moment...i just collected some fresh seeds of our native ceanothus (which i have id as Ceanothus integerrimus) i also have been looking into drought tolerant plants, especially ground covers and /or landscaping elements...type plants/shrubs etc. i think you are on to a good start, those should all do well for you once established. they do say the same of ceanothus, as they do manazanitas - that they should have NO supplemental watering. basically the only way to kill them is to over baby them with watering, so i have read and researched... i have some large "yarden" areas, replacement for grasses, which get no watering and somehow keep on keeping on. also i like many feral / native / naturalized plants, and many of these are very drought tolerant, like things that grow in the forests and other areas without any human intervention. so anywho heres some thoughts, that i either have growing or have thought about/researched that should grow without watering. if these ideas are of no use to you, throw them out the window obviously =) but heres some food for thought. almond (despite recent weirdness i know its extremely drought tolerant) pistachio hazelnut (stays shrubby) olive fig elderberry grapes plums are pretty hardcore and tough all around. iffy to say they are completely drought tolerant, but they are close. they are just really tough and resilient all around. mahonia - oregon grape oregano pineapple weed/chamomile is surprisingly drought tolerant wild strawberry wild violets, viola, any kind of violet chicory self heal feverfew all salvias - sage calendula i've also found nigella of all types to be tolerant of dry conditions... well surely theres more, but enough for now......See Moreltecato
14 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
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