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Sun or shade?

15 years ago

I know all the broms are different but is there a general rule of thumb about how much shade or sun for broms? Can you tell by leaf thickness or colour or something?

We're planning on moving a lot of our broms but I'm not sure which ones to put in full sun, part sun or shade (and the amount of shade). In summer our average temps are 30 to 35C with the occasional hotter day. Would Neoregelias cope with this? I have a Bromelia balansae, Puya alpestris and a couple of Aechmeas that are supposed to handle sun but what about Vreiseas and Billbergias and others - how much sun? One particular spot we have would get full midday sun for about 2 to 3 hours but shade in morning and afternoon - would that be too much sun for some?

thanks,

Gail

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Comments (5)

rickta66
15 years ago
Gail,

Not too many neos will handle 2-3 hours of full Brisbane sun, Neos with leaves that are tough to feel will handle more sun than Neos with supple leaves, Dark coloured Neos will generally handle more sun than the lighter coloured Neos.

If you have multiples, I would suggest that you try a few in differant locations but label them, I have moved plants around and forgotten which is which - they can change appearance quite dramatically.

Spring is a good time to move plants out into more light to climatise, if you see the leaves fading it is the first signs of burn and they should be moved to less light, pups attached to parents will climatise better than parents - I was told why once but have forgotten.

Neos will all generally do well with morning and afternoon light exposure in our climate.

Cheers,

Rick
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flabrom
15 years ago
Generally the thinner and more paperlike the leaf, the less direct sun tolerated.

I am in coastal Florida - my Vrieseas and Billbergias get morning sun and, where exposed to the Western sun, get filtered light in the afternoon.

Rick's idea is really the best way to make the determination when you have several of the same bromeliad - experiment by placing them in different locations. In Florida we have learned that specific local conditions (such as afternoon breezes, being by the water or ocean, overstory and amount of rain) make big differences in cultivation so there is no iron clad rule about light exposure.
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splinter1804
15 years ago
Hi Gail,

I would like to add to the above advice:

If you're moving plants from a low light location to a high location, do so during the winter months so they have more time to adjust to the higher light conditions.

Also don't forget to allow for the effects of light reflection and/or heat radiation from brick walls, water in swimming pools or other sources.

All the best, Nev.
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flabrom
15 years ago
Nev, you make an excellent point - and one that is often neglected - about reflected light off walls and water.

The work around for walls is to place a line of shrubs or some kind of understory between the wall and the bromeliads, to break both the heat and the light.

Karen
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gailqld
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks all. We want to move them shortly while it is still winter here to give them a chance to adjust. A good point about reflections, at least we won't have to worry about that in this garden - more likely have trouble finding spots that are bright enough. Winter is ok as we have a few semi-deciduous type of trees (Delonix regina - Poinciana - and similar) but they give out heavier shade in summer - probably too much.
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