I don't think that the pot is the issue - yet (if you can, take out the plant and see if it's already rootbound or close to it, but I doubt it). As Daisy said, Lilian Austin's habit is procumbent/sprawling, and what I see on your photo is not atypical for this plant, especially on its own roots (although yours looks like it's grafted). In a young plant, this feature may be even more pronounced. Cut her back after bloom 30 -50% and give her a good rose fertilizer, not too high in nitrogen, preferably (also) some organics. Water her well but don't let her sit in water and give her a sunny spot, be it in a pot or in the ground. Long term, roses do better in the ground, but I've also grown them very successfully in pots, and that includes biggies like Teasing Georgia and Golden Celebration. As long as they don't get rootbound, i.e. have space to expand their roots, get watered and fertilized regularly, they're very happy. Hope this helps, Andrea

Thanks everyone. I hope it is just recuperating. It was in some poor conditions when I purchased it & struggled to get the compact soil off of its roots. It is on a shelf on my balcony. It gets indirect sun almost all day and a few hours of direct evening sun. My balcony faces west. I have a north facing window I could put it in but I'm afraid I'll forget about it. I could position it on the shelf to get a little less direct sun. Do you think that would help? Or maybe bring it inside where it could sit on a table in front of the balcony glass doors? I will also water more often as suggested. Maybe 2x a week?

You can take a completely empty jar and put a lid on it and as soon as the temperature drops there will be moisture collecting on the inside surface of the jar, so that there is condensation visible on the inside of a clear container shouldn't be all the evidence you need to decide there is adequate soil moisture. If the loss of turgidity is from under-watering, you should see the plant start to regain turgidity only a few minutes after watering. If that doesn't happen, you need to look to a different cause. One thing that comes to mind: If you can SEE condensation in the container, the wilting may be due to high soil temperatures. If you're using clear or translucent containers, they allow sun to pass through and warm the soil directly, resulting in much higher soil temperatures than if you were using even black containers. If you were using a black container, light would be absorbed at the container's surface and turned to heat, where the lions share would be dissipated into surrounding air. As noted, this doesn't happen with clear/translucent containers. Then, after the sunlight warms the soil directly, the container and small air spaces at the perimeter of the soil mass serve as insulation, helping to trap heat in the soil where it can dissipate only slowly. White (or pastel) opaque containers are the best choice for plants in containers because they are most resistant to relative heat gain. Other possibilities (though there isn't enough info to favor any one over another): Not enough roots developed to furnish adequate volume of water to the leaves (keep out of hot sun). It could be a drought response from too high a level of soluble salts in the soil inhibiting water uptake, the soil being too dry, or the soil being too wet. Al

Well I heard back from the local supplier aaaand... the spring I go to is privately owned. So they don't know for sure. but they said they'd worked with the gentleman who owns the spring and didn't recall him using chloramines, and were confident the water was clean. I'm not actually so sure that's the problem anyhow. Only two of the plants are losing bottom leaves to crinkling tips. Hopefully they're just old leaves. I started watering the Trinidad more carefully, so hopefully that improves. If watering gently from the top helps its condition, I'm going to move it to a plastic pot asap. I'll keep an eye on it and let you guys know. Dunno if this is helpful but the Trinidad has never really held up its stems very well. When I first bought it the stems were falling all over the place and the only reason I still bought it was because the flowers were so cool :P is that just a trait of this particular variety? When it comes to giving plants enough light, can distance from the plant be the same as length of exposure? The light is mounted on a shelf in my room and it would be hard to drop it down. The plants are only about 1.5-2 ft from the light and get 6ish hours a day. Honestly the chimera and the trinidad are the biggest culprits for long petioles at the moment. They just don't want to lay down.