Cinnamon is really a neat material for us succulent plant growers. I can't recall when I first read about it, but I've done some research into the subject since and really am convinced. First and foremost, cinnamon contains a very potent natural fungicide: cinnamaldehyde (it actually contains a range of natural anti-fungals, but cinnamaldehyde is the most important). Cinnamaldehyde is also the chemical most responsible for the taste and smell of cinnamon! In a variety of legitimate, scientific studies (not just some guy out in his garden), this particular compound has been found to be effective against a variety of fungal infections in a variety of plants. It turns out that cinnamaldehyde is also a potent insecticide, although ground cinnamon probably isn't an effective delivery method. Beyond having antifungal properties, ground cinnamon is a strong desiccant. When applied to open wound, it draws out any excess moisture helping to callus over faster. Finally, it is relatively cheap, very easy to find, and clearly safe to handle frequently without any precautions. All these properties combined make it the ideal treatment for cuts in succulents. I use it anytime I cut a plant, stem, caudex, or root, for any reason. Be it pruning, or more serious surgery to excise rot, it always gets a healthy dose of cinnamon powder afterward. Incidentally, the stuff you buy at a grocery store is in fact ground cassia, not ground cinnamon. True cinnamon is much more expensive, and better tasting in my opinion. If you are curious, you can buy true cinnamon at specialty spice dealers like Penzey's. However, for use as a fungicide, ground cassia is just as good as true ground cinnamon, as they both have ample cinnamaldehyde.

what kind of palm is that "ponytail"? if it is a phoenix dactylifera, i.e. date palm tree ( sorry for taking this assumption ) then removing the suckers require taking into consideration the following: case A - if the sucker on base of mother has roots on earth, then the suitable time for removing it from mother when it weighs between 20 - 30 kg, by digging making a rather wide hole until the base of the sucker is clear on the bottom ( cutting roots is no problem) go ahead; and then by using a heavy sharp tool (spade alone might not be enough )try to hit carefully between the mother's trunk and the sucker not to harm any of them, until a clean and save separation of sucker completed. rap roots area with wet fiber until planting. case B- if sucker is located on a high spot on trunk not reaching the ground, then cut the bottom surrounding stubs ( by a saw )until the base of the offshoot is open , then try to support with the help of mother's trunk if necessary a container holding soil to the base of that offshoot , and then water it each time you attend mother i.e. layering that sucker until roots grow say within one year, then you can separate it from mother carefully, and hope happily ever after hth

Giving your plant little tiny sips of water is doing more harm than it is any good. Tap water has dissolved minerals within it. When you give your plant a small amount of water, none of it drains through the soil and out the drainage holes. Your plant soaks up this small amount of water and the dissolved solids get left behind in the soil where they eventually begin to accumulate, more and more, each and every time you give your plant another little sip. When you water any plant, always flush out the whole entire pot with more than enough water. This washes away any excess mineral buildup from the soil. "Overwatering" a plant isn't about giving your plant too much water. That's where most novices get confused. It's about having a soil that holds on to too much water and remains soggy. Even though plants take in carbon dioxide thru their leaves, they also breathe in oxygen through their roots. And having a soggy soil with too much moisture essentially cuts off this supply of fresh air to the roots, which ultimately leads to those roots suffocating and rotting away. I stopped typing to give your photos a much closer inspection and I noticed the overturned wine bottle sticking up out of its pot. Are you using this as a water globe? If so, then it's entirely unneeded. Ponytail palms store water in their caudices (caudex/trunk). Compound this wine bottle/water globe with what I suspect is a glazed pot with no drainage, and I think we have the answer to at least one of your problems. Glazed pots are completely fine, just so long as they have adequate drainage. It's what I have all of my ponytail palms planted in. Well, all except for one (long story). I would advise you to repot it as soon as possible into a pot with drainage holes, as well as with a fast draining soil mix. For mine, I use the Miracle Gro brand soil for cacti and succulents and it works fine. I don't even add anything to it, either. And when you water it, always flush out the whole pot. If other members on here saw how much I water mine, they would think I was crazy, and that I was drowning my plants. But they're all kept outdoors down here in the South, where it gets very hot and very humid. Plus, they all are planted in a soil that never gets soggy, even when I "drown" my plants. Because all of the excess water always drains away. Now, about the leaves... Your ponytail isn't getting enough sunlight. This is why the leaves hang straight down. These plants are notoriously tough and remarkably tolerant of less than ideal growing conditions. But even they can endure only so much. Just because a plant can tolerate low light levels, that doesn't mean that it prefers lower light levels. I would suggest gradually moving it to a much brighter window, or brightly shaded porch. All of mine grow in full, direct sunlight almost all year long, with no shade whatsoever. But they are used to receiving that much sunlight. Yours isn't. It would need time to acclimate and adjust without getting sunburned.

Elucas said everything right. I will echo you can go stronger with the rubbing alcohol. Adult mealies have a protective wax coating. I use pure 91% rubbing alcohol on my plants, but a few I will be more careful with like the succulents that have farina. I doubt using pure rubbing alcohol would have any effect on your palm. Keep away from any harsh sunshine during the time you are using rubbing alcohol. Get down in the new growth because that’s where they’re hiding and eating. Check the palm once a week because they’re all at different life stages, and there’s always one or two that you will miss the week before. I’d say after about 3 weeks of treatment would be a good time to repot in new soil and a fresh cleaned pot. Still check for mealies tho. Eventually they will be gone, you have to keep on top of them. One rubbing alcohol treatment isn’t going to destroy them. Goodluck;).