If we're looking at the same picture, Kim, I think that is B. Ed Macwilliams, which is a form of amoena v. amoena. It is very similar in appearance to amoena rubra, however. Both are stoloniferous and have similar-looking blooms. The difference is that grown side-by-side under the same conditions, Ed M will have more intensely saturated color and a more open rosette with long arching leaves. It's also a bit touchier. The leaves seem to like to curl and die back, and it has a tendency to abort its flowers before they mature, I'm not sure why. The upright form and slightly mottled coloration of your #5 is more typical of amoena rubra. I'm not sure if this is a valid variety or cv. name, as it doesn't seem to be represented in the FCBS photo index, but it is widely recognized. We've had several discussions about this here, but I got mine from Don Beadle under that name, and if it's good enough for Don, it's good enough for me! ;-) See link below for another thread showing several other GWers' specimens under a variety of conditions. I think you are right about #4 having a strong amoena connection too. I don't have amoena v. viridis, so I can't say for sure whether Gonzer is right or wrong, but I see what you mean about the lack of silver banding as compared to the index photo. I do know Pink Champagne, however, and that definitely ain't it. Here is a link that might be useful: Bill. amoena update

This is a Billbergia windii (cross between B. nutans and B. rosea). Leaves can be as long as 30", inflorescence probably 24-30" hanging down well below the pot. Can bloom any time but winter seems to be its preference (in Michigan). It multiplies fast and is especially showy when it has multiple scapes.

4 looks like picea abies 'pendula' ... at least theat the name i know it under ... what we dont know.. is if any of them will have a winter color.. such as #2 ... if so.. report back .. it could be aurea.. or gold coin.. though i see no hint of such... same with 3 .. and 1 ... ken

Hi everyone. Sheila - You are correct; you plant is a Billbergia and possibly a hybrid. As for its name, sorry but I can’t help you as there are several similar looking Billbergia hybrids. I have found the best time to divide and re-pot these plants is during late spring when the weather is warming up and plants are starting to grow again after their winter “go slow”. Because of their shape and being taller than many other bromeliads, when first re-potted, they are inclined to topple over until a new root system is established. To prevent this I stake them by equally spacing three wooden chopsticks or thick wooded kebab skewers around the plant. The plant must not be allowed to move otherwise the new roots will be broken off and won’t grow. Billbergias potted three months previously as pups (stakes still in place) I find they do better in a smaller pot than usual, but unfortunately because of their height they are inclined to topple over, so I support mine in wire mesh cradles until established and then I hang them from the shade house roof timbers using plastic hangers. This solves two problems; it stops them toppling over and it also provides access to good light which is essential for them to produce good colour. I find they’ll grow OK without fertilising but if you do chose to fertilise, avoid fertilisers high in Nitrogen as this will rob them of their colour. Check the N.P.K on the label and make sure there is a higher percentage of Potassium than Nitrogen. All the best, Nev.