Fast growing 30 ft evergreen for San Francisco Bay Area
pinar
16 years ago
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quirkyquercus
16 years agoDibbit
16 years agoRelated Discussions
fast-growing,drought-tolerant trees for Italy (zone 8?)
Comments (18)Melissa, broom is a pain in the neck. I used to love seeing it by the roadsides driving through the Italian landscape; so bright, so perfumed! But I think that is the only good context for it, in a way. It would be OK where it is on my property, if it didn't attract those effing beetles so wildly; in fact, IMO, the beetles exist precisely to keep the broom from taking over the entire world, since they suck the flowers and render them infertile. But the beetles are engineered to be wildly attracted to the colour yelow; that is, the stamens of ALL flowers,and due to the geography (or morphology???) of my land (sharply sloping down from the rose garden into the broom field and below that, oak woods,with a south-west orientation),having broom down there is like rolling out the red carpet for the beetles (well, the yellow carpet). Broom has strong, fibrous tap roots that can push their way through/ between rocks, etc. I think the only way I can do anything with this area is by hacking up the ground with my pick; I can't see just planting baby trees amongst that thuggish broom and hoping them to survive.Also, I'd have to water the babies in their first year, and I think the broom would just flourish all the more. Probably I'll try a mix of things and see what works best,but it will be necessary to work the soil before I plant anything. I probably should saw down all the broom in the area I wish to start cultivating, and maybe put black plastic bags over the stumps of the ones that are too deep rooted to dig up; for shade it might be better to rig up something artificial. I don't think your land was as abused as mine was; this area in question has been so badly eroded; I have to hunt out spots where it will be possible to dig down deep enough to start stuff. The rose garden area was similar when I started about 15 years ago,but I am not going to lug all this heavy clay, etc. all the way down there. To plant the first Leylandii I prepared an area,digging out rocks, putting in organic matter and kitty litter, etc. I'll certainly be watering it in it's first year at least! but the thing about Leylandii is that it was cheap; it's as tall as me and cost me all of 13 euros. So, if with some effort I can get it to establish,I might have a nice start.The thing is, even on the subject of drought resistance, people's experiences and opinions vary greatly with ALL plants, as far as I can see. To me,for example, roses are very drought-resistant once established, but many, many people heartily disagree with this opinion. So I will see what this Leylandii does before I make any decisions. Criteria for a nurse crop would have to be : economic ,(not to say, cheap) and fast-growing. But even for that, I will absolutely have to work on that soil ; as it is now, nothing new can start growing there, I think,except baby broom and maybe brambles (if they manage to compete with the broom)...bart...See Moredrip irrigation in san francisco
Comments (20)I hadn't meant to be abusive of Joe's points, just a counterpoint. Just a note about Urban Farmer's services, they are a full service irrigation store, and sell all the materials to install a conventional spray irrigation system as well. I would like to counter one of Joe's points, about drip irrigation being cheaper to install. I don't find that to be the case, in the systems I design and install, there is more hand labor involved to get emitter line to individual plants, so I'd say that the different systems are probably about on par or even slightly more expensive for a drip irrigation when using higher quality/more reliable fittings and materials. Also, as to the point about needing pressure regulators for drip systems, what is your point? The pressure regulator is not some expensive or elaborate device prone to failure, and even a conventional spray irrigation system will often require a pressure regulator at the valves if the house or street pressures are too high. Where drip irrigation excels is the benefits of using it on difficult to water steep slopes where spray irrigation would cause run-off at the higher application rates, and is not as good at giving deeper watering. You can also get away with using less valves with a larger area of coverage in a typical garden setting, because the water flows required are less volume and pressure. As to maintenance and repairs, I often find that clients with dogs and conventional spray irrigation systems may have more need of regular inspections to repair broken irrigation heads, especially if they conflict with a large dog running along an open metal fence at the street. As well, pop-up spray irrigation heads are equally prone to damage from autos driving over them or lawn mower blades clipping them, and when broken and set to run overnight, the wasted water will be far more wasteful than it would be with a lower flow/lower pressure drip system. I would not waste my time trying to convince someone who has their mind made up about their preferences in irrigation systems, but it is not as black and white as Joe would make it appear. Everyone should irrigate in a way that makes sense for their particular situation. I simply believe that drip irrigation in combination with micro-spray drip can create superb results while also using less water overall. Joe's contention that drip irrigation does not permit deep rooting of plants is only germane for those who don't run their systems long enough to wet the soil deeply. This is also very much a concern with spray systems as well, as most gardeners simply don't know how long it can take to deeply water a clay soil. Most spray systems will cause run-off in clay soils if watered for more than 10 to 15 minutes on a sloping site, and this won't wet the soil much beyond the first inch or two. Not to mention the water lost to wind/over throw spray, and evaporated water lost to the hot sun in combination with winds. In any case, both spray and drip irrigation design have their pros and cons, and the majority of residential homeowners are more likely to be timing their irrigation by schedules rather than plant needs, nor do most adjust their watering schedules more than once or twice a year to reflect the weather and seasons. In specifying which type of system makes more sense for an individual homeowner/client, it helps to weigh all the factors that should influence such a decision. While working as a landscape architect for a large firm doing subdivision homes for a developer, I had occasion to design a subsurface system using Netafim for lawns in this development. I can tell you that it drove the new home buyers crazy, as too many didn't trust that it was working properly, and would reset their individual home's irrigation controllers to vastly overwater the lawns, as they couldn't see it working. While it may make sense to use such a system for a commons area landscape that isn't subject to the whims of different homeowners, I wouldn't recommend it again for the average garden. The one place I would always recommend a spray system over a drip system would be for a client who can't control their dog's digging and chewing of things in the garden. A drip system will be much more vulnerable to damage in such a garden. I've also found that the most common animal damage to drip irrigation systems in my experience has been with squirrels chewing off the hard plastic mister heads I use in gardens which may have subtropicals such as bromeliads mounted on fences or trees. I've learned that the misters should never be mounted on the top of branches, but always on the bottom of a horizontal branch, to make it more difficult for the squirrels to do damage....See MoreChecking a high quote for San Francisco Bay Area
Comments (17)My first thought reading this thread was to suggest getting bids from other than Swan and Blue Haven. Blue Haven gets way more bad feedback than good, and Swan is usually high priced and mixed reviews. I'm in Stockton and went with Premier Pools over here. They built a good pool and I negotiated a fair price, but their customer service and communication was appalling. Wouldn't recommend them unless the price was really right. I'd look for a smaller PB if I had to do it again. Our pool was approx 29'x16' (400 ft freeform). Pebble Sheen finish, solar (8 panels), 2-speed 2hp Jandy pump, Polaris 360 cleaner, auto fill, Jandy PDA and Aqualink controller, sheer descent, about 40 ft of raised bond beam, 400 sq ft of stamped colored concrete for $40,800. We paid another $1800 to demolish existing patio and patio overhang and take out few shrubs and small trees. $225 for new fencing material (they built new fence as part of contract). $3,200 for additional 300 sq ft of stamped colored conrete. And $1200 to move 220v line for existing above ground hot tub. ($47,225 total) We bid out landscaping and irrigation separately. One other thing to consider if you go with a pebble finish. Try and get an idea of which colors you like and make sure that color level is specified in the bid. They usually don't tell you the pebble finish only includes a couple colors, and then when you pick your color further in the building process, you find out it's a "premium color" with a premium upgrade charge. Also, don't hesitate to let them know they're bidding against each other and you're on a tight budget. You'd be amazed how the price can come down. Good luck!...See MoreFast growing medium sized deciduous patio shade tree for south bay, CA
Comments (13)5x7 seems awfully small. The roots of anything you plant will quickly fill that area and begin to grow into the surrounding soil, under the paving. We have a Trident maple in our yard, planted as a tiny seedling about thirteen years ago. It was selected from a collection of volunteers from a gorgeous mother tree and we hoped that the gene pool was a strong one. We crossed our fingers for a great natural infrastructure or beautiful fall color.....we got both. The seedling was about two feet tall when I transplanted it into a bark based potting medium to grow for a year before planting it in our side yard. It was about three feet tall when planted in the ground. It's now approx. 30 feet tall by 25 feet wide, with a diameter of 14 inches. (I asked my husband to go out and look.) We plant directly into hard, red Alabama clay soil with no irrigation under two to three inch layer of mixed wood mulch that we increase the radius of every year as the tree shades out more of the lawn. It does get watered during periods of serious drought, maybe a handful of times a year, at most. I live in Northern Alabama (6b-7a), with coldish winters and I consider this a pretty sunny part of the country.....certainly not gloomy. There are no visible surface roots and no driveway buckling. I asked my husband about the mature Tridents where he works and he said that there are no pesky surface roots. He's the Director of Horticulture and Landscaping at a local university in our city, so notices those kinds of things. However, all bets are off regarding behavior of any kind considering that very small planting site....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
16 years agopinar
16 years agolsu27
16 years agoDibbit
16 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
16 years agoDibbit
16 years agopinar
16 years agoscotjute Z8
16 years agoEmbothrium
16 years agojames148
15 years agoJoanne
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSara Malone (Zone 9b)
6 years ago
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