drip irrigation in san francisco
Laurel Zito
13 years ago
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13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogardenguru1950
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Has anyone grown watermelons in San Francisco?
Comments (3)We grow melons (not watermelons) down here in an even cooler zone. Here's what it takes: 1. choose early ripening varieties developed to grow well in difficult cool weather areas (northern, coastal, or mountain) Â less than 75 days (which will usually turn out to 100+). e.g.: Ambrosia, Earlidew, Earliqueen, Early Hanover, Earlygold, Fastbreak, Flyer, Galia, Haogen, Jenny Lind, Minnesota Midget, Sweet 'n Early, Tropical Passport 2. 4-6 weeks prior to planting in the garden, put down clear (not black) polyethylene over the bed. 3. Use raised or mounded beds and lay drip irrigation lines or soaker hoses down the center of the beds. 4. Start seeds indoors in 2- to 4-inch peat pots in May and 5. Plant 3 seeds to each pot and when they have emerged, thin to the strongest seedling in each pot. Transplant the seedlings when they have two or three true leaves. 6. Keep the seedling plants growing vigorously; do not stress them (put them into "checked growth"). 7. Remove the clear plastic just before planting and replace black plastic sheeting. 8. Cut slits in the plastic 18 inches apart down the center of the beds and plant the seeds or seedlings. Make holes large enough so the young melons can be planted pots and all. 9. Remove the "lips" of the peat pots -- the rims that protrude above the soil surface. Cover the beds with floating row covers. Or cover with individual cloches or polyethylene tunnels Remove any covers as soon as daytime temperatures average 70 degrees. Also, remove the row covers when the plants begin to flower -- to permit pollination. Once the first fruit ripens, stop all watering. Be prepared to do some hand pollination. In cool climates, bees aren't necessarily as busy as they should be. Try this method with short-season watermelons. Joe...See MorePossible transfer to San Francisco: where to garden?
Comments (16)My suggestion is that you rent before jumping in to buy. It is very likely the housing sales will not pick up until 2009 and this will give you the chance to look around carefully to decide what works best for you. Unlike Juno we ended up in the Oakland hills. We find the traffic on the 580 freeway faster and less clogged than any other EBay freeway, an important consideration when it can take you over an hour to go 35 miles at peak commute times. We live in an older neighborhood where lots are large, crime is moderate (lots of 'casual crime' but virtually no 'heavy' crime) but the mailman can leave pkgs on my front porch at any hour and no one takes anything. OTOH, it will cost you between $450K-$500K to buy a 2- or 3-bdrm older cottage in any reasonable shape. Our lot is 5600 sq. ft. with a small cottage - 2bd 2 ba with attached 1 car garage: Many Bay Area cities are under mandatory water rationing. You will need to learn an entirely new way of gardening with a wider variety of plants than you are accustomed to. I second the suggestion of EBMUD's 'Dry Climate' book, it's one of the finest available for our area. The Sunset magazine and garden books are also essential info sources. Consider resale carefully here. Some stay here forever, some move around a lot. Buying the wrong location can really hurt when you realize your house would be worth $100K more if it was located 2 miles away. Or that it takes you so long to hassle with the daily commute, you hardly have any time to garden at all!...See MoreSan Francisco freeze
Comments (25)Frost damage here in my garden in the foothills above Santa Cruz consists of the following: - brugs at the bottom of the hill lost some of their leaves, but are still in full bloom. Interestingly, a fully exposed brug. sanguinea has zero frost damage, so it seems much hardier than the regular brugs. Brugs at the top of the hill were completely undamaged. - mountain papaya leaves got nipped back everywhere except where there was some overhead protection. - Very fresh growth on cherimoyas and white sapotes at the bottom of the hill got nipped back, not a trace of damage on the same varieties at the top of the hill. - All banana leaves got fried thanks to a sprinkler going off in the middle of the night, but ensete ventricosum is still green/red. Ensete ventricosum leaves appear to be a degree or two hardier than regular banana leaves. My Hawaiian apple banana was unphased by the cold, but it's growing in between two buildings. - Ti plants appear to be amazingly tough, not a trace of damage on any of them! Collacacias under canopy appear to be fine, exposed ones have light damage. - Cannas didn't get damaged, go figure that one out. - All palms, including king, parajubaea, kentia, basically the works have zero damage. - tropical guavas fine, even the fruit was undamaged. (Fruit ripens in April here) - Some citrus varieties in the lower garden had really tender fresh growth nipped back. - tropical low chill apple trees that are blooming now were unphased by the cold, fruit on my pink lady apple tree were not damaged either. Someone relayed back to me that their pink lady tree in Texas took 18F two weeks ago with fruit on the tree, and neither fruit nor leaves were even remotely phased by that cold temperature. All in all, it was a very strange freeze, seems most of the damage is a result of frost/ice crystal formation on plant tissue. It never got very cold here, it just stayed right at freezing or slightly below for a good 8 hours, with lots of humidity in the air, hence so much frost formed. Pockets of the yard with poor air drainage and full exposure to the night sky got colder than other spots. Now I am in favor of removing damaged tissue. The tissue is an entry point for pathogens and fungus. So I usually will cut off any rotten tissue as best I can....See MoreDrip irrigation duration - southern cal region 1
Comments (7)I sympathize with the OP since CA conditions are different from our Midwest. Yes, with sandy soil (2 inches of compost do not change anything, you need one foot plus to start having a bit of loam) mulch is less useful, since losses are mostly from below, and I would recommend daily watering or every second day at the most. Still, at such a site I would mulch heavily, to eventually get some OM in the soil and improve water absorption. It will still help with evaporation and improve surface roots. In fact, I would rent an excavator and make low hugelkultur beds. I know that at my previous site, which was pure sand, watering with drip every two days was normal, and this was wet Michigan. One hour after watering, the soil was dry, and the soil 5 inches from an emitter was dry regardless. The soil there, I had to excavate around the house to do a foundation job, was bone dry to 8 feet in midsummer, so these ideas that the root need to be developed do not work in very sandy soils. I can not give further advice without knowing the plants involved, the density of planting and the density of drip....See Morewcgypsy
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogardenguru1950
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoborderbarb
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLaurel Zito
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotoffee1
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agocalistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLaurel Zito
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoborderbarb
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agochadinlg Zone 9b Los Gatos CA
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobahia
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogardenguru1950
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLaurel Zito
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agochadinlg Zone 9b Los Gatos CA
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobahia
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLaurel Zito
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agopeggiewho
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agosanjayradia
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Laurel ZitoOriginal Author