Check out the earthtainer construcion guide for some mix info for a self watering planter, or just search container mix. Most will be a soil-less mix, there are a ton of great threads on here regarding container mixes, fertilization, and also water movement/retention. The poster above "Al" has some very informative and detailed explanations. It seems like gardening is such a varied and expansive topic that searches very rarely yield a simple, direct clear answer to a question. The answers I have found have been partly from searches, partly from posting a question, and partly from reading older posts ( sometimes not directly related to my original question ). There is an enormous wealth of knowledge here, take advantage of it, I did and have learned alot.

I've included a link to an excellent thread on "Water Movement and Retention." It's the place to begin if you're interested in perfecting your container soils. The 5:1:1 mix is a custom mix comprised of five parts pine bark fines, one part spaghnum peat and one part perlite. It is referenced near the bottom of the opening post in that thread. Once you read through the thread you may have more questions, but this is a great primer. FWIW, I've been growing peppers and tomatoes in the 5:1:1 for several years with excellent results. Here is a link that might be useful: Water Movement and Retention

If you look closely at the amounts being suggested you will note that the amounts are really quite small for the area, and probably not really needed. What did they say about Calcium? What is the level of humus (organic matter) in your soil? In addition to that soil test dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else might need to be done.

If you have big rocks right under the surface, just layer organic material on top of the dirt. Dig little holes and plant your vegetables. You do NOT need all the fancy amendments like green sand, and bacteria and comfrey. This garden photo shows what you can do with alkaline desert dirt and a couple layers of organic material. I spread 2-3 inches of rough compost (you could still identify many of the raw materials) and over that a thick layer of shredded tree prunings. This is the first year. Next year I'll dump more layers onto it.