I do much like you do Spruceman when it comes to staking but it seems like we're old and outdated somewhat? LOL! Good luck with the trees Bill. Bboy, I pasted a study with mycorrhizae, bonemeal, etc. Although, what Scott can be construed as possibly being correct, the "myth" conclusion by her is vastly overstated IMHO. She might be correct, but I have serious doubts over the long term. Quote: Mycorrhizal inoculation of organically grown tomato plants Siri Caspersen Department of Horticulture, Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, Box 55, SE- 230 53 Alnarp, Sweden Improvement of plant nutrient uptake and protection against root pathogens by arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) might contribute to a reduced utilization of soluble fertilizers and pesticides in agriculture and horticulture. For organic cultivation of glasshouse crops, regulation of nutrient supply and of the balance between nutrients is a major challenge. Common nutrient sources are green and animal manures together with plant and animal residues from the food industry. The recommended soil nutrient levels for glasshouse cultures are gerally high and based on easily available nutrients extracted by water or weak acids. Thus, for P in particular, luxury levels are common in the soil and the risk of P leakage is evident. When tomatoes are cultivated organically in the same soil for consecutive years, root pathogens may also become a problem. Root colonisation by mycorrhizal fungi in combination with the use of slowly soluble P- sources might be desirable both for bioprotection against root diseases and for a reduced risk of P leakage. However, establishment of mycorrhizal root colonisation is difficult due to the normally high soil P concentrations in combination with a widespread use of peats, which have a low P- fixing capacity, for pH regulation and for soil structure improvement. The aim of the presented work was to investigate the influence of organic and slowly soluble fertilizers and of inoculation with AMF on mycorrhizal root colonisation and on plant growth and nutrient uptake of tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum cv. Delito) plants grown until planting stage (six weeks after sowing) in soil- or peat- based substrates. In sterilized soil: sand (1: 1, v: v) amended with apatite and bonemeal, we observed a strong plant growth response to inoculation with an isolate of Glomus intraradices. Plant growth was lower and the mycorrhizal response stronger in pots where the slowly soluble Psource apatite was added alone in comparison with pots where apatite and bone meal were added together. Mycorrhizal root colonisation and sporulation were reduced by the addition of bone meal. The positive response of plant growth and nutrient uptake to mycorrhizal inoculation in the soil: sand was probably related to an increased P uptake of the mycorrhizal plants. The effects of inoculation with Glomus intraradices (BEG87) and addition of bone meal and/ or blood meal were investigated for tomato plants grown in a substrate containing mineral soil and peat (4: 1, v: v). Root mycorrhizal colonisation was high (60- 80%) in pots containing either bone meal or blood meal or none of them. When both fertilizers were present, however, AM fungal colonisation was reduced. Inoculation with G. intraradices increased shoot dry weight in comparison with the uninoculated plants for all fertilizer combinations, and in particular for blood meal alone where no growth response was observed for nonmycorrhizal plants. It is possible that an AMF- mediated increase in plant the uptake of P was necessary for a positive effect of blood meal on plant growth. As the mineral soils in the substrate had been partly sterilized, however, introduced microorganisms were probably quite important for the mineralisation of bone and blood meal, and effects of other microorganisms associated with the AM fungus on plant utilization of the organic fertilizers can not be excluded. End quote. I felt bad because I didn't at least give you a reason for my cynical opinion of Scott.

Thanks Kvolk - i'm going to check out that St. Mary's Broom you mentioned. Anybody have suggestions (online) where they've bought from? Or good links to info/picture on it? I could probably post this or look at the conifer forum too, but thought i'd write it anyways. I have very clayish soil too....enough to have to have a septic mound system at least. If you have any pics of your own trees, I'd love to see. I was thinking of getting the triflorum, griseum and that mandshurican (sp?) next spring. Anybody have any favorite places (online) they get these from? Or have had best luck with? Our winters haven't been extremely cold here either...no -20s at least. I was going to put some chicken wire around some of the more zone 5 iffy JMs or ones that i know the rabbits and other animals can get to. I just don't know if i should put some shielding on the west and north sides of the chicken wire enclosure for the trees...to shield from winter winds?? Not sure if that's worth the trouble. My trees are all on the north and east side of my house too. Last year, I wrapped all the JMs in this wire and then wrapped that wire enclosure with some polystyrene flexible layer and left top open...lot of work. And then even the Coral Barks had major dieback - they had the black bark thing happening. So i cut them back to about 10 inches off ground and they came back really nicely, but now it's almost winter and i don't know if i want to baby the Sango kakus every winter and then see them die back 2 feet every year. (I had planted these sango kakus last October - late). Maybe they weren't established enough and that's the reason for dieback or maybe the enclosure i made just was too much...and then they got that dark br/black bark and dieback?? Not sure. I have a couple more JMs this year compared to last...got a little crazy this summer. But anyways, i really only want to put the chick wire fence around the JM's and not try to insulate or shield them...you think i can get away with that? One more question...does anybody know if there's a really big difference between the acer griseum cinnamon paperbark and the girard's hybrid...personal experience with that? I don't know which one to get. NEWgars - is your girard's hybrid and griseum planted in pretty protected locations? And anybody have pictures of their triflorum, griseum and mandshurican?

Both are examples of red maple, also known as swamp maple which gives you an indication of its moisture requirements. The one tree is a named selection of the other. Think of it this way: Acer rubrum: cow A. rubrum Burgundy Belle: Holstein cow A. rubrum has been deemed the most popular shade tree in America. Doubtless there are many on lawns, streets and parking strips near you. It is not small-growing, however, so you should place where you want tall trees. And it develops rapidly on suitably moist, sunny sites. All trees root mostly near the surface, regarding large roots becoming exposed and blocking mowing goes these particular trees should not be especially prone to this. Once any tree becomes big enough you can expect roots near the trunk will have become thick enough to emerge, at which point regrading and replacing the turf around it is probably the best option (where there is still enough light for grass to grow right up to the trunk). At first you will need to have a large circle of mulch instead of grass around the new trees to prevent the grass from inferfering with the establishment of the young trees.

You can pot up in mid to late fall if you like, as the leaves drop. I am not familiar with the soil mix you refer to but as long as it is very barky and textural, it should be OK. The trees are a little young to go untended outdoors all winter unless in a very mild winter climate. You don't want to keep them indoors but they should be kept somewhere that stays just above freezing. As to 'maintaining their shape", the Red Filigree will naturally attain an umbrella shape but unless you want that umbrella to form very low to the ground, I'd consider staking the tree upright for a season or so. Just until the main stem (future trunk) attains a more upright habit and a somewhat taller stature. The MY has its own unique form and I wouldn't do anything to it. It will slowly elongate and develop additional stems/short branches with those dense clusters of leaves. The mature form of that cultivar is rather stubby and asymmetrical and your baby is clearly showing those characteristics. IMO, both trees are too young to be planted outdoors any time soon. Those look only like 1 year grafts and I'd prefer to have them grow on in containers where I could monitor them closely for at last a couple more growing seasons before planting inground.