I will pay attention to the soil more than just watering it on a schedule-my soil isn't clay and I didn't plant it so I'm unsure if an amending hole was done. The wind has been crazy here for the last two weeks, so yes with the rain has come some powerful winds (hailed once too) plus I'm in a new housing development so there isn't much blockage right now. It leafed out great, I thought yeah I'm a good green thumb for a first timer, and then it rained and froze one night, but I was unsure about that being the problem. All my neighbors trees don't look like this so I thought I did something to,cause it. The trunk is bound to a bamboo stick, and if can tell you it's needed-the tree would have broke without it bc of the crazy wind. Thanks for your help on this-not sure what to do :)

Yes, we are Sunset 3B here.... The sunshine on most days and temps in summer is the reason so much agriculture grows successfully here. Of course, they irrigate. I am surprised Wenatchee is the same zone as us, but I guess it doesn't take into account the amount of snowfall they get (They are probably the -15f extreme.. we are more like -5f.) RE: the suitability of the trees I listed, The Thornless Honeylocust seems to thrive here, it does well in alkaline soil and is drought tolerant. As a prairie tree, it thrives in full sun. I have noticed many honeylocusts in yards that do not irrigate, growing just fine... The list of negatives of the tree is pretty short, and it seems very adaptable to our conditions. Linden -- RE: irrigating, I don't know. We will have some lawn on the property, so a tree/trees in that area would get more water. Linden tolerates alkaline soil and has small leaves... Thus, it seemed to be an *option.* ash -- I still have to go to our local extension office.. I will ask them about borers here. Ash also tolerates alkaline soil and was another option for my lawn area. If the borers are that bad here, I won't consider it.

I do much like you do Spruceman when it comes to staking but it seems like we're old and outdated somewhat? LOL! Good luck with the trees Bill. Bboy, I pasted a study with mycorrhizae, bonemeal, etc. Although, what Scott can be construed as possibly being correct, the "myth" conclusion by her is vastly overstated IMHO. She might be correct, but I have serious doubts over the long term. Quote: Mycorrhizal inoculation of organically grown tomato plants Siri Caspersen Department of Horticulture, Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, Box 55, SE- 230 53 Alnarp, Sweden Improvement of plant nutrient uptake and protection against root pathogens by arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) might contribute to a reduced utilization of soluble fertilizers and pesticides in agriculture and horticulture. For organic cultivation of glasshouse crops, regulation of nutrient supply and of the balance between nutrients is a major challenge. Common nutrient sources are green and animal manures together with plant and animal residues from the food industry. The recommended soil nutrient levels for glasshouse cultures are gerally high and based on easily available nutrients extracted by water or weak acids. Thus, for P in particular, luxury levels are common in the soil and the risk of P leakage is evident. When tomatoes are cultivated organically in the same soil for consecutive years, root pathogens may also become a problem. Root colonisation by mycorrhizal fungi in combination with the use of slowly soluble P- sources might be desirable both for bioprotection against root diseases and for a reduced risk of P leakage. However, establishment of mycorrhizal root colonisation is difficult due to the normally high soil P concentrations in combination with a widespread use of peats, which have a low P- fixing capacity, for pH regulation and for soil structure improvement. The aim of the presented work was to investigate the influence of organic and slowly soluble fertilizers and of inoculation with AMF on mycorrhizal root colonisation and on plant growth and nutrient uptake of tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum cv. Delito) plants grown until planting stage (six weeks after sowing) in soil- or peat- based substrates. In sterilized soil: sand (1: 1, v: v) amended with apatite and bonemeal, we observed a strong plant growth response to inoculation with an isolate of Glomus intraradices. Plant growth was lower and the mycorrhizal response stronger in pots where the slowly soluble Psource apatite was added alone in comparison with pots where apatite and bone meal were added together. Mycorrhizal root colonisation and sporulation were reduced by the addition of bone meal. The positive response of plant growth and nutrient uptake to mycorrhizal inoculation in the soil: sand was probably related to an increased P uptake of the mycorrhizal plants. The effects of inoculation with Glomus intraradices (BEG87) and addition of bone meal and/ or blood meal were investigated for tomato plants grown in a substrate containing mineral soil and peat (4: 1, v: v). Root mycorrhizal colonisation was high (60- 80%) in pots containing either bone meal or blood meal or none of them. When both fertilizers were present, however, AM fungal colonisation was reduced. Inoculation with G. intraradices increased shoot dry weight in comparison with the uninoculated plants for all fertilizer combinations, and in particular for blood meal alone where no growth response was observed for nonmycorrhizal plants. It is possible that an AMF- mediated increase in plant the uptake of P was necessary for a positive effect of blood meal on plant growth. As the mineral soils in the substrate had been partly sterilized, however, introduced microorganisms were probably quite important for the mineralisation of bone and blood meal, and effects of other microorganisms associated with the AM fungus on plant utilization of the organic fertilizers can not be excluded. End quote. I felt bad because I didn't at least give you a reason for my cynical opinion of Scott.

Thank you both for helping me. It's been a hard decision. My village replaces parkway trees with Norway maples (as well as lindens, honeylocust, hackberry, crabapple, and, until recently, white ash) and they kindly let me opt out and supply my own alternate tree (subject to village approval), provided I pay for the tree and take care of the planting myself. So for $$ reasons I am getting a tree I can plant myself (around 1.5" caliper). That's why I am so interested in growth rates (it's hard to get used to tiny trees after having been surrounded by two particularly enormous ones. I found an autumn blaze (1.5", maybe 2") with good crotch angles on sale at my local nursery that I am going to plant. I think if I were getting something larger (say 3.5") then I'd be more inclined to get the October Glory, but that's a good bit more money (for the tree + delivery and planting), and I'm already in the doghouse with my spouse for spending money on a parkway tree that could have technically been replaced for free! It will be interesting to compare the growth of this tree to my next door neighbor's 3.0" norway maple that was planted 2 weeks ago to replace their former parkway elm. I'm hoping my tree will "catch" the norway in four years, and hopefully be close to twice the size in 10 years. I plan to take photos. thanks again.