I'll also mention a few I've considered and why I've scratched them off the list:
-Elm-- it sounds like they're a little more liable to drop a branch on the house, someday, than I'd like?
-Maple-- most cultivars that I love are either 1. weak wooded, or 2. won't get big enough. Or 3. won't get big enough in my lifetime, which brings me to:
-Oaks-- the ones that will work in my slightly-alkaline soil don't sound like they'll get big enough in my lifetime, if they do, they don't have great fall color.
-Honey-locusts-- not strong enough

I love the Kentucky coffee tree, but I think they're a little too slow growing? I'm OK w/ spending more (though not a TON) for a larger tree, but I'm also limited by what is at my nursery.

I love the Sweetgum tree, but don't know how I would deal with the little fruits.

If any are misconceptions of mine, please set me straight! Again, thank you for your time.

There are non-fruiting sweetgums - sorry but can't remember any cultivars off the top of my head. Try googling... I would imagine they would have to be ordered, so would either be small - mail-order - or pricey - local nursery, but they do grow pretty fast.

Historically, I think cottonwoods are grown in Neb., again, there are non-fruiting cultivars, to avoid the "cotton".

Is there a local public area - university, park, arboretum, etc. - that you can go visit to see what seems to do well in your area? Perhaps you've tried this, but sometimes SEEING what a tree looks like helps in decision making.

Good luck.

Yes, I have, but I'm not trained enough to know which tree is which, unfortunately. lol But that gives me the idea to bring my camera and afterwards stop by the identification forum, so thank you! I'll do that.

Also, I hadn't seen any non-fruiting sweetgums! I will def. look into that. Thanks for the info! :)

Sara,

I'm afraid that by having so many requirements and stipulations, you've pretty much excluded every tree that might possibly work for you . Maybe someone will yet provide you with a tree suggestion meeting all of your needs, but until then I suggest prioritizing your "must haves" and working down from there.

I'd also take another look at the list of native trees you've excluded. As an example, you've eliminated all maples because of the following: "1. weak wooded, or 2. won't get big enough. Or 3. won't get big enough in my lifetime" Red Maples (Acer rubrum) are vigorous and wind firm trees. Unless you're already a long-time member of AARP, it should get decent sized in your lifetime. While Silver Maple has a reputation for being weak-wooded and shedding branches, I don't think this is true for Red Maple and has not been my experience. My soil is sandy and tends to be on the droughty side, but Red Maple is native here and does quite well.

Regarding oaks, Northern Pin Oak (Q. ellipsoidalis) is tolerant of alkaline soil, grows fast, and can have fall color rivaling that of Red and Sugar Maples. It is simply a misnomer that all oaks grow slow.

Finally, I'd take another look at the Honeylocust cultivars. Skyline is a very nice tree with more upright growth and very good fall color. Mine has averaged 2'-3' growth per year, and I just don't see any indication it is weak-wooded. Is it possible you're thinking of Black Locust (Robinia)?

BTW, have you considered Yellowwood (Cladrastis)? Native, surprisingly fast growth for me, still fairly uncommon, beautiful flowering, and above average fall color. Tends to branch low, but I wouldn't exclude it based just on this. Good luck!

Bob

Try shantung maple (acer truncatum) - very strong. Voted one of best ice and wind resistant trees in Kansas. Doesn't get very big. 25-35 feet. Kinda like much tougher version of japanese maple. Has pretty good drought tolerance once established but water anyway if you want it to continue to grow to desired size. It grows 2-4 feet a year. Not too bad. The fall color is mostly yellow, sometimes orange/red.

Shumard red oak is fast growing tree for sure. Avoid northern pin oak as it cannot tolerate alkaline soil. Shumard red oak can but the million dollar question is whether it is really shumard red oak, not pin or others that can't tolerate alkaline soil? That's a big problem in Texas right now.

Bob-- good to read that I'm off base on some of my thoughts-- that's exactly what I was hoping I could hear. I'm thrilled to read that your Honeylocust experience is good-- I love them. I was tihnking Red Maple cultivars needed acidic soil, but I could be thinking of Sugars.
I haven't seen a Yellowwood-- I will def. look into that.

Lou- I'm putting a Shantung in my backyard after seeing your pictures and reading your advice! They are simply beautiful.

Thanks so much for all the input! All of the posts have given me great ideas. I know my list was long, & probably pretty annoying to anyone more 'in the know' lol, so I really appreciate you guys muddling through the thoughts of a newbie.

I was hoping Gandle (also from Nebraska) would weigh-in here. He'd be the person to tell you what trees do best in Nebraska.

Lou -- My understanding is that Northern Pin Oak (Q. ellipsoidalis) is more tolerant of neutral soils than Pin Oak (Q. palustris). NPO is very common in my neck of the woods, but soils tend to be on the acidic side, so chlorosis is not an issue.

I'm loving some oaks I'm seeing. Stupid question-- what do people do with acorns? You must have to rake them before each time you mow? How long is the time-frame that they will drop acorns?

Sarabell, since whether or not you need to pick up the acorns before mowing depends on several factors - the species of oak and the resulting size of the acorns, the length at which you mow your grass, and the type of mower you use - your question can't really be given a definitive answer.

Again, it depends on the oak tree, and on how big the acorns are as to how long they last and how much of a problem they are but most of the trees around here drop their acorns over a period of several weeks, an early drop for non-viable acorns in late summer-early fall, and then a drop in mid-fall for viable acorns.

Don't know where you are in NE but everywhere in the state Bur oak is the no. 1 choice from the forestry dept. See if you can find a yellowwood at any of the nurserys near you. They can be limbed up quite well. Fairly fast growing. Shantung maple was mentioned earlier, it would be a great choice. I personally love Turkish hazlenut, no you are not going to have to clean up a lot of nuts unless you plant 2, wonderful tree. If you soil isn't highly alkaline then scarlet oak will work. They are OK for us in southwest NE and give great fall color. We don't find the oaks to be extremely slow growing here in our park department. With just ordinary care they really are not slow. You mentioned Kentucky coffeetree, yes, they are a little pokey for the first few years but after establishing are almost a rapid grower. In any case, good luck.

Thank you so much, guys!
Gandle, I'm in love with this Yellowwood! Wow, what a beautiful tree. Even w/out the flowering, I like it. Sounds like it might be a problem in storms? I'm finding conflicting info on websites as to whether it's strong in a storm or not... ? Any idea?

BTW, I'm going to hope I can come across a Yellowwood for somewhere in my yard, one way or another, they're just beautiful! So thanks, Bob & Gandle, for that suggestion.

Gandle-- I'm in Omaha, on the NW side, my nursery of choice in Mulhall's, and I also hit Lanaha's, if you know the area. :)

Take a look at sawtooth oak. I have one here in Kansas and it is fast growing and very attractive