Al: Planting a few trees always gives one a good feeling. But when it is sweet cherries, that feeling has to be tempered with reality. I don't know about your climate, but in mine (Northern Virginia) sweet cherries are about the most difficult fruit you can try (leaving aside nectarines and pluots). Sweet cherry trees require a special level of care, especially effective dormant spraying to slow the onset of diseases like bacterial canker. Depending on the varieties you chose (but did not specify), sweet cherries can crack during the heat and humidity of summer and ruin an otherwise good crop. If your trees are on one of the usual cherry rootstocks like Mazzard or Mahaleb (often humorously called "dwarfing" by the nurseries that make them), they can grow up to 25-30 feet in 10 years, making it impossible to obtain spray coverage or even pick the cherries. That is why my preference would not be central leader or even modified central leader, but a vase shape, with low, spreading branches. There never seems to be any difficulty in getting a sweet cherry to grow upward. I would whack those sweet cherry trees off at about 2 feet and try to get some lateral branches going. Your Northstar tree is a curious case indeed. This variety is a genetic dwarf, which will normally top off at about 10 feet, even with minimal pruning. How a nursery could get a leader of this variety to grow up to 6 feet in a pot with few to no side branches is a mystery to me. I guess they figure people will pay more for a taller tree, and they are usually right. The trouble is, all those feet of 1/2" leader are essentially useless. I would whack that little tree off at about 24-30 inches, and try to encourage a lot more side branching, and I would have no problem leaving branches that are a foot or more from the soil line. A multiple-branched, spreading tree will be a lot more fruitful and easier to care for than a taller, more vertically oriented tree. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Thanks for all the responses. I chose the redbud precisely because I wanted its free form nature so I'm not trying to straight-jacket the tree from it's habit and I'm not tilting it because I want to see a perfectly straight trunk. It just happens that the main branch off the trunk has a lovely arch which,as it grows, will advance too low and next year I will have to cut it back some so it arches/grows taller. If I tilt the tree first I won't have to cut as much of the main branch off next year. Most likely, per all of your responses, I'd be better off just trimming it as it needs before next Spring without tilting it and disturbing its roots . Thanks Ken for the details on how to tilt it if I choose to anyway against advise to. The main question does still beg and it always seems to be debated online: When is it better to disturb tree roots and other plants when necessary: in the autumn before winter, or at late winter before spring?

huisman98, 5-6 inches of water draining away in 4 hours or so is very good, however your not "out of the woods" just yet. I'm in far NW Arkansas, and clay is pretty normal here as well. However I do notice that the soil in your pictures looks allot like the red clay like soil they often bring to new construction sites and compact to 95% of max compaction, and it end up looking allot like what I see in your pictures. Not saying that is the case for you, but if your soil is highly compacted, then it is too soon to plant redbuds/dogwoods. With that said, it probable would not drain that fast if it is so highly compacted, as the pores are squeezed shut. One thing you do need to do though, and refill the hole a few more times (probable daily for several days or a week)to make sure it maintains that speed of drainage, as it possible that is is simply filling some cavity somewhere below the whole. During a perk test (peculation test), this is done to see what kind of drainage can be sustained. This is the real drainage capability of the soil. At my particular location, I'm almost certain that it would take far longer to drain for my soil than the results you got, however plants that like good drainage are everywhere, and are the norm. Just the same I plant trees on mounds to get things established, and seem to adjust well to the clay, though it is still early. The mounds are approximately 1/3 to 1/2 of rootball above the original grade, in a mound composted of loosened native clay about 4 feet across sloped down to original grade, and covered with mulch. You might do the same if it make you feel more secure. One last thing, get your soil analysed for nutrients by taking a sample local county extension agent (will find them in your phone book). Clays in new construction are often VERY VERY poor in nutrients (was the case for my yard), and will require nutrients to be added to get them to more normal levels for your trees to properly establish. Note, "NORMAL" levels. Too much or too little nutrients will be very detrimental to your new trees. Not only that, but is beneficial to your lawn as well. Let us know what your results end up. Arktrees

agree with flora .. the only problem here.. is your expectation for instant gratification ... that rarely works in the garden ... in general .. it is said the root mass of a tree is twice what you see above ground ... so these plants need a year or two .. to grow the root mass.. to get the growth rate to accomplish your goal ... its a bit different for shrubs .. but the concept holds .. imo.. fert does not sped such ... so just avoid that.. though a little of this or that wont hurt ... large transplants should be watered deeply and let to near dry before the next deep watering ... the idea being to moisten the whole gob planted .. and the surrounding undisturbed soil ... until the plant can grow out into surrounding soil .. spraying the surface oft the soil ... or the leaves often.. accomplishes little .. except make you fell like you are doing something ... dig small holes a few inches down.. to see how water is moving in your soil .. and hand trowel or tablespoon is good enough ... dont disturb the roots ... [do this both in the gob planted.. and in the surrounding soil.. to insure both are properly moistened ....] so... just chill sit back.. water properly.. and in a year or two.. you wont be able to beat them back with a stick .... ken