Young Oak with Acorns!!!
amidheliot
14 years ago
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pineresin
14 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Wanted bur oak, and chestnut oak acorns
Comments (1)I have lots of oak in my yard but no clue what kind... How do you tell the difference?...See Moreoak trees and acorns
Comments (8)Growing Oak trees from acorns is a lot of fun. After doing that long enough to feel you have discovered what works best as you try to grow them in pots; you might at one point also begin transplanting newly sprouted volunteer oaks. To successfully do that, simply follow the next described 8 steps. Step 1: From mid May through early June, find some fairly young oaks which still produce and drop large amounts of acorns. If you look closely you should find many new baby oaks trying to grow beneath the canopy of the tree. Also check under other neaby shrubs such as holly or photenia growth habit type shrubs. The ones you dig should be no more than 3-4 inches tall and still be growing out of the acorn which they sprouted from. This size of volunteer oak should have a tap root that is about 6-8 inches long so it can be helpful to first use a garden pitchfork to start making your tiny rootball. Then use a hand held garden trowel to scoop up the rootball using the other hand to hold the soil around the roots. Step 2: If you are too far away to immediately take the volunter oak to the nursery bed system you have set up for them to grow in, then at least wrap the root ball with a moistened section of burlap. Handle gentily while doing this process, because it is very important, for the success of your mission, that you do not break off the volunteer's sprouted acorn. After securing the tiny rootball and burlap with a tie, lay the baby oak on its side. While making certain that you keep the rootballs moist for any and all the baby trees you dig. Step 3: Once you are finished collecting your baby oaks, immediately take them to a nursery system you have set up under the dappled light shade of a mature tree on your property. That nursery can be a group of 5 gallon buckets with holes drilled into them and that are filled with a good quality, well draining potting soil. These buckets do not need to be buried in the soil. It will be best to plant only one of these volunteers per 5 gallon bucket. Keep them well watered all the rest of the spring and fall. 5 gallons of water is best poured into each bucket every time you need to water them. Since your are protecting them in the shade of a mature tree, and running so much water through the pots, it will be good after you start to see some new growth to feed the tree with a non-burning and slow-release type food. I have found Osmokote to work well for this purpose. In the winter you should be able to decrease the watering. It will not matter if the soil in the posts freeze, as long as the young trees in your pots have gone dormant. Step 4: In the next year just when their buds are about to swell and break dormancy, transplant them into deeper pots and move the pots into an area where they can begin to experience full morning sun and afternoon shade. An easy way to make a deeper bucket is to drill drainage holes into a new five gallon bucket. fill it with potting soil which you compress with water and a little pressure. Next cut away the bottom of the five gallon bucket in which your tree has been growing. By this time the roots of your tree should be nicely incorporated into the soil enough that you can simply insert the cut off bottom of that bucket into the top of the new bucket you just filled and water packed with a little pressure. Once the tree breaks dormancy it will not take long for the tap root of the tree to incorporate into the soil of the bottom bucket. Step 5: Continue to care for the trees in these buckets and grow then on the north side of a building where they get some shade, and some west and east sun at different times of the day. Keep them well watered. Step 6: After the following winter, just prior to them breaking dormancy pour 5 gallons of water through the young tree's pot. Lay out a fairly larger sheet of burlap onto which you have shoveled about a 4 inch depth of clay soil, remove the still dormant tree from its container, and set it on the layer of clay soil. Next you can pullup the sides of the burlap while adding more clay soil around the side once all the burlap is completly wrapped around the rootball tie it off in a manner which will not harm the root flare or lower trunk's bark. Step 7: Put the trees in larger pots which have been sunk into the ground. in a sunny location. Back fill those pots with a well draining sand mixed with wood fines soil until the rootball tree can stay stable in the pots. Keep the trees watered in this condition, but do not feed them. Once they leaf out let their leaves do all the work to produce any food their roots need. Step 8: By the time the trees either go dormant in the following fall, or just prior them breaking dormancy after the following winter's end; your trees should be ready for you to give away and to be planted in the ground where they can be left to continue growing....See MoreHow to encourage fast growth from Post Oak Acorn?
Comments (14)In my experience which is just with a couple oaks, ( Burr and English) direct sowing where the tree is to grow is the best thing I know of. Those 2 trees are growing great, the Burr did about 4-5 ft in the 2 years from acorn sowing, usually after a transplant, the first year is about 5 inches max height growth, vs. 2-3 ft from acorn, no watering needed in a dry spell. The tree will be stalled for a year or 2 to replace the root mass, to resume the maximum growth in a potted tree. I have dug up trees about 1-2 ft tall in the past, and the oaks have such deep roots, I swear they went to China. I'm talking a 1 foot tall red oak Q. Rubra, with a root system that I never did find the end of, and I THINK the red oaks don't have as deep a taproot as a White oak family oak. You can get an oak in a pot and it will transplant fine etc. but, if you've got the acorn, you know where you want the tree, you are prepared to protect it from critters til spring, it just makes sense to direct sow, maybe refridgerate a spare acorn or 2. I guess if your in a critter riddled area, you've got no choice but to pot, but if you can direct sow, that is the best in my opinion. And I have a limited amount of experience, I would say about 20 years since I planted my first oak. The first oak I planted is about 40+ ft tall, and is putting out acorns, it is a Q. Rubra, or Q. Velutina, likely Velutina, no real fall color. I will add that Sycamores can lose a ton of roots and bounce back like nobody's business. Poaky1 Oh, I have a Q. Alba from an acorn but it in a lot of shade so only did a foot from acorn, but I'm talking nearly full shade, the tree that shades it is on it's way out likely within 10 years, and the Q. Alba can hang in there in shade til this other tree croaks. But of course all this I said is for my yard, and YMMV. Poaky1...See MoreRed oak family acorns form later than white oak family acorns?
Comments (6)Well, I went looking for signs of Q. velutina acorns ripening on some trees. Well, I was staring up into a tree a guy came up to me with sawdust all over him and said "hi". He was part of a crew that had from what he said just chopped down a large chestnut tree in the back of one of the homes by the road I was on. He told me that I was a month too early for the Red oak acorns, but, the squirrels were eating up the other nuts (chestnuts?) like crazy. I did see a Q. Alba with little green acorns on it. So I guess that's my answer. As far as the one pic on someone else's post here wanting an ID of their red oak ( I think a Q. Velutina) I don't know how to explain that one. I guess they had a already half formed Red oak family (Q. Velutina was my guess) acorn. The place I was at when the guy came up to my car, has tons of mature trees. Oaks, Chestnuts obviously, Maples. sycamores, Hickory, many others I am unfamiliar with some Walnuts, I don't know a black Walnut from any other Walnut. Pecans look like Walnuts to me as far as leaves. I would need my Field Guide to tell the difference. I didn't go to the place that I will be going to in mid to late September for a Q. Velutina acorn search. If they had been ripe I could've gotten them where I went today. I may look there first, (where I went today) in mid Sept. If I find any I'll offer some to anyone here who wants any. I have 2 Q. Velutinas. I have one that is close to a Q. Robur, and one that has enough room to grow to a nice wide spreading tree. I love the one that is in the open....See Morealabamatreehugger 8b SW Alabama
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