bradford pear removal in favor of native blk cherry

9 years ago

this will be an ongoing project, i'm sure. what is the best way to remove the 8 BPTs growing along our driveway? i've read that cutting them off at ground level, then mulching over them will work, and the roots will eventually break down. then there is digging up the whole root mass. we have a pretty big john deer tractor (the farm type, not the lawn tractor type), so that is a possibility.
i'm planning on putting in some native black cherry trees (trying to go mostly native in my yard/property).
if i leave the roots in the ground would that impede the cherry's growth?

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Comments (13)

dbarron
9 years ago
From my experience, BP suckers freely...so I would either remove the root system or (sigh) treat with a stump killer of some sort. I hate to advocate chemicals...but sometimes, there seems little choice.

Of course if you could cut off at ground level, then mow over them for a season, that would probably kill them too.

It's a good thing you do...(can you feel the bradford love coming through?)
needinfo001
9 years ago
dont get rid of them they are so pretty.
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Well, I haven't ever computed mine on the lot lines. But just added up the size of the yards around the house and added them up. So mine is 8000 not counting house, drive way, and four sidewalks and two patios. I'd love to have a big tooth oak. I hear they are nice trees and have nice fall color. I planted two trees that were supposed to be shantung maples, but, they turned out to be mis-labled Norway maples and simply did not do well in my climate (plus their fall color was bad instead of the nice color I hear Shantungs generally have.) My three red oaks are all slightly different. I think one might be a Mexican or white oak, I just haven't ever been able to tell for sure. And, alas, with too much shade (go figure) I've killed 3 crepe myrtles. I really wanted a couple of those. Three lilacs are surviving but not flourishing for the same reason. They only get about a half day because I was finally able to get my Pin oak to take off. Also, in a few years I expect one of my burr oaks and one of my red oaks to conspire with a neighbors pecan tree to make my Cleveland pear to feel crowded. But, up here our trees generally grow smaller (even the "big" ones) and slower. So, its much different than in tree growing areas where many of the trees I have will get HUGE and do so fairly quickly. Our weather often thins out our trees for us.
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Invasive species of plants are a big problem. I have been concerned about them for over 35 years. The worst are the exotic vines which not only strangle and pull down trees, but also cover the forest floor and wipe out the native woodland flowers, etc. Among the trees, the worst around here is the Ailanthus, or "stink tree," which on the back of my land here in Winchester takes over so completely that no seedlings of any other species survive, partly because of its agressive reproduction and shading, but also because of its alleopathic powers. Compared to these things, it seems to me that the pears, and even the Norway maple, are relatively minor problems. Here in the Winchester area the pears are planted everywhere. I have some pear seedlings coming up in my field, but not to the exclusion of anything else, and in general I see them hardly at all around on the roadsides or in abandoned fields. I have been in the industrial area around dulles Airport outside DC and seen their abundance there. I think we need some kind of concerted and well funded action to try to get rid of the worst of these invasives. I can imagagine a time when all the forests will be simply choked with vines and we will not see any yong trees growing upward without being crushed by these vines. And this Ailanthus problem is really terrible and spreading. Sorry, I apologize to some of you who see the pears to be such a threat, but the overall threat from invasives in general is so great, and so widesperead, that I think we need to focus on the worst problems. I think that we need some real strong community, and perhaps legislative action to fight the Ailanthus problem and the problem caused by the worst of the vines--these will really destroy our native forests. If we make pears public enemy #1 I think we will be taking on too much and will get nothing done. I think it is clear from the discussion of this topic that we will not get everyone to rally around a "ban and destroy the pears" movement. But set up a topic about Ailanthus and the vines, and you may see more widespread support. With that support, maybe something can be done, at least on a local community level. --Spruce
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
nothing will kill them but round up or a stump killer ... use the expensive applicator.. at the link.. to apply .... full strength .... RU or SK to the cambian layer of the cut trunk ... do not waste product on the interior wood ...

if you see suckers in the future.. snip them off.. and drip on some killer ...

the cambian is the vascular system of the tree.. and if product is applied.. IMMEDIATELY after cutting.. it will suck it down in to the root mass ...

then plant whatever you wish.. on center.. opposite the stumps ...

depending on how close the are to your driveway ... pulling them out with a JD MIGHT ... cause driveway damage ... unless they are 30 or 40 feet away .. i would not take risk ... unless its just a dirt road ... as compared to black top or cement ....

if you are talking about prunus serotina .... the cherries are useless... and right now.. half of my yard is covered in rotting fermenting fruit... [not to mention the flowering smell of dirty gym socks] ...the other half.. has been deposited on my car.. in the form of large purple bird poops ... you might want to rethink this tree ... native forest trees are NOT presumably good.. just because they are native ... [not to mention.. come spring.. the thousands of seedlings that will hatch ....] ... it really depends on the size of your lot .. proximity of the house.. etc ... i would not recommend this tree in suburbia ... but on acreage.. its not the worst ... and i presume you must have some decent land.. having a real tractor and all ....

and finally NEVER .. NEVER ... EVER ... plant all of one kind of anything .... at a min.. plant half as a second tree .. just in case some cherry plague rolls thru... you will only lose half ... or vice versa ..

dont really know where you are.. to make any other recommendations ... but i am positive you have a soil conservation district office in your county ... and in theory.. your line of trees are a wind block.. which is soil conservation ... they should be able to provide lists of trees.. shrubs and conifers.. that would work best in your area ... some districts.. even have annual plant sales ....

good luck

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link
Iris GW
9 years ago
I would pay extra to have the stumps ground out.
mikebotann
9 years ago
I would take a backhoe to the trees if they are too big or numerous to dig out by hand. Stump grinding is expensive and only goes a few inches down.
There are a lot better native trees than your native Cherry. I wouldn't even consider planting it.
Mike
lenahall
Original Author
9 years ago
the reason i am thinking black cherry is because it supports the greatest number of wildlife species (birds, butterflies, other insects, etc)~456 butterfly and moth species supported alone! whaaaaat!?
they will be away from the house, so droppings on vehicles isn't an issue...
we will probably take this project on in stages. maybe trim back and girdle the trees this year, then go from there.
in the mean time i'm going to plant a black cherry in a pasture we are letting regenerate this year. when we do put the horses back on it i can put fencing or panels around it to keep them from nibbling it down :)
thanks for the tips and links!!
i'm including a link for info on the benefits of the black cherry

Here is a link that might be useful: plant this instead of that
missingtheobvious
9 years ago
We had a zillion wild black cherries when I was a teenager in Connecticut. Some things to know about this tree:

The fruit will stain any pavement which is under it. And squished cherries will stick to the soles of shoes; then if you're not careful, some may be tracked into the house.

Black cherry twigs must never be used to roast weiners or marshmallows over a campfire, as they contain a poison which will be transferred to the food.

And don't chew the cherry-tasting twigs, either.

Leaves are poisonous to livestock.

The trees are host to tent caterpillars.

Fall foliage is yellow (and in my memory, not an attractive yellow, either).
Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
9 years ago
I agree with Ken about going half and half with different tree species. Learn from the idiots who plan the Gateway Arch grounds about not planting mono cultures.....or come to think about it, imagine if you only had 4 pear trees and had 4 others you could leave in place!

I have no where near the tractor you do. In my 1.18 acre yard stumps of bradford pear size trees are not an issue. Don't let em become work.

What I have done when removing a pesky siberian elm or some diseased fruit tree of similar size is simply cut the stump flush as I can with the yard. If I really get anal and pull some dirt away I get it darned near perfectly flush.

Then when I mow I just run my old 1989 Simplicity right over the thing. Suckers get cut that way every week or so during the growing season. If they bothered me I could use Round Up on them I suppose.
wisconsitom
9 years ago
You could cut at ground level, apply glyphosate or garlon concentrate to cut surfaces, and never have any more problems with those confounded pears. As to the suitability of black cherry, I will add that if the trees should happen to grow well and attain size, especially if carefully limbed up as they grow, some very valuable lumber will be forming. Then the other item I want to mention; I get the need to have diversity in plantings. that's an obvious point. But.........I see that diversity as pertaining to a larger area. So, if you want the effect of an allee-a row or double row of all one species, the aesthetic effect can be impressive. For that reason alone, a monoculture is often the right choice. You have the whole of the rest of your property to work with other species.

I applaud your decision to get rid of what is shaping up to be one heck of an invasive plant.

+oM
lenahall
Original Author
9 years ago
i like your response best of all wisconsitcom :) lol
i must say i have been surprised at the vehement reaction to the idea of planting what is hands down the most beneficial tree to all wildlife!
i saw someone mention that they had (willingly) planted a honey locust on their property and the reaction was all rainbows and butterfly farts! LOL
but i do appreciate the advice. i will keep y'all updated.
longtee81 (Zone 5a)
9 years ago
I have a few native black cherry trees in my yard and they really do attract a lot of wildlife. They do grow very fast and drop a lot of branches over the winter or during storms with high winds, but in you location they should be fine.

I'm not sure where u were planning on getting them from (pretty easy to find seadlings near one) but here is a link to a website that sells a bareroot and small container "genetically superior" version.

I have never ordered from there, but their tree prices and shipping costs appear to be very reasonable.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Black Cherry Link
sam_md
9 years ago
hi lenahall,
good for you for removing BP's, you're on the right track.
Now let's talk about Black Cherry. You are gonna have to decide if the negatives outweigh the positives, I would say they do.
Ever hear of Black Knot? It is a deforming fungal disease of cherries/plums and a serious problem. Here is a pic.
{{gwi:2122439}}
When Black Cherry gets Black Knot it is stunted, deformed and gets dieback. It is a serious problem in my state and I'd guess in yours too.
If summer storms bring down branches of BC and the livestock eat the leaves, you will have dead animals.
The flowers of BC smell like chlorine to me.
By all means plant wildlife friendly trees like sassafras, hickory/pecan, American holly & winterberry. I would forget BC.
terrene
9 years ago
In the backyard, I have numerous Prunus serotina (ranging from seedlings to a mature 50-60 year old tree), as well as P. virginiana.

They ARE fabulous wildlife trees, hosting many species of lepidoptera and providing flowers and fruits, which is generally quite important to me as I raise butterflies and enjoy the birds and bugs. Heck I even love Silver maples, which are also fabulous native wildlife trees, but also tend to get criticized on this forum (not without justification).

But P. serotina is not the most ornamental tree and as Sam pointed out is susceptible to pests. It has a rangey, loose form, scraggy ugly bark when it matures, is pretty messy, and it reseeds like crazy. Great for a naturalized setting, but not so great in a more formal setting, such as flanking a long drive. Just MHO.

How about some nice sugar maples?

bradford pear removal in favor of native blk cherry

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bradford pear removal in favor of native blk cherry

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