DO NOT DIG IT UP!!!!! It's a mature, well established rose that is falling over because it is thriving and blooming like crazy. You live in zone 10, which is a warm climate. If you dig it up now it will not survive. It's leaning over because it is growing towards the sun (ie: away from the fence). Although it's hard to tell from the picture, it looks like Iceberg, which is good, since they are practically care free. I don't know where you live, but if you're in zone 10, your shrub roses can grow huge, and they'll never really stop blooming.I live in L.A. and have a very similar issue with a lot of my roses. In winter (say, early January) you can "fake" them into a very short dormancy by pruning, which mimicks winter die-back, but I caution you not to hard prune. It is unnecessary. You'll lose a lot of flowers and that fat, shrubby look that makes a mature rose bush so lovely in the garden. For now, I would provide a good, solid support to ensure the canes don't break from the weight of all that growth. I would lightly shape the bush as the blooms start to fade, but don't expect to trim it enough to lose the supports. Next January you'll prune it into a pleasing shape, keeping in mind it's natural tendency to grow towards the sun, and remove the canes growing close to the ground. You'll take it down no more than half it's height. Then see how that helps next year. If the problem persists, prune a bit harder the following year. Resist any urge to move it, unless your plan for your garden requires it (I'd root a cutting at the same time, just in case). For a rose (or any plant, for that matter) that large and well-established, it is very difficult to move it successfully, and even if it works, it can take years for it to come back to its' present robustness. This is because moving it traumatizes the roots, impairing their ability to absorb water. Thus the plant struggles. This winter I had to dig up and move "Our Lady of Guadelupe". I knew I would be moving it a year ago. I waited until the weather was nice and chilly (meaning around 60) and did just what I described. I trimmed the roots at the same time (even though I dug it up with soil packed around them) and drenched the soil in diluted Superthrive for the first week or so to promote root growth. It is now blooming, far behind it's established relatives elsewhere, but I can see every part of the bush is alive and it is coming back.

I'm in the process of systematically cutting back my larger bushes. They've gotten too big for me to handle and deadhead, especially from my scooter. Bushes 6 feet tall are being cut down to one foot. So far everyone I've done has come back nicely. Several large Explorers and rugosas have been cut back or are being done. My goal is to get them all done by mid July. All mine are own root so I don't worry about grafts. My advice: Don't be limited by the 1/3 or 2/3 rule. Cut back what you want. BTW, I expect mine to bloom again this season. Some repeat bloomers done earlier are already setting buds.

I get several basal canes each spring and remove the weaker ones. The pic is from June 2012, and the mild 2011/12 winter and a burlap wrap meant that this rose doubled in mass this past summer. If you see the thick bare cane curving up and back in on the left, it has a thick lateral that pushes up to the right--these two canes (really just one) and another thick basal cane, which originates on the left and crosses behind this "Y" cane, supply 75% of the mass of the rose. I have yet to hard prune any canes larger than a pencil. As you may notice, I let several small basal canes/laterals help fill in the void of buds at the bottom of the woody main canes. These are pruned back slightly after flowering. Without looking at summer 2013 photos (my phone's dead), I let a very thick basal grow to about 4' on the left side I think from behind the trellis before bending back in toward the structure, and let a similar basal grow from the right side...it was oriented more forward-facing before it was trained back to the structure. These main canes zig-zag across/through/sometimes behind the 6' tall trellis and this summer I let laterals grow in a sort of fan from the top of the trellis to attach to the deck railing above. I guess the question that lingers from my earlier research is: can a cane get "too thick"? That is, is there a point when the very thickness of the cane inhibits nutrient uptake or risks cracking under stress of wind/cold/its own weight? I let those new basals grow anticipating that 2-3 big-daddy canes will crack or fail in some way in the next few seasons, and I want to have some mass ready to camouflage the loss. I pruned the other basal shoots to encourage growth in the upper laterals. Does that make sense? I can't say that I've noticed fewer buds on laterals from the larger canes at any height.

Hmm, I just googled this the other day. I told myself THIS would be the year that I would finally prune my roses, and that THIS would be the year that I would not let pruning intimidate me. I read a few sites on pruning, tried less successfully to find tips for climbing roses, grabbed my shears, marched out the to garden.... and proceeded to snip of the dead ends of the branches. Yes, ends, as in one or two inches. Sigh. I am such a wimp. I did cut out the dead branches, and there is one bush that is really weak and so I pruned that back fairly hard (not that there was much left to prune). I'm hoping it comes back with a vengeance if for no other reason than to help me get over my pruning fears. I was at a loss with my climbing rose, though. I'm going to go take a look at the links Molie provided, and maybe go back out there with the shears.... :) Dee