Also, be aware that the berries of white mulberry, M.alba, are not necessarily white - yes, there are some white-fruited selections(in my experience, they're lacking in flavor - just sort of sweet and 'grassy'), but the vast majority produce lavendar/purple berries that can stain - whether tracked in on the bottom of your shoe, or in bird poop - as surely as any good M.rubra or the rubraXalba hybrids like Illinois Everbearing. IE gets my vote as the best-tasting mulberry I can grow here, but the trees eventually become huge! I've not grown Geraldi, but have friends who have, and they like the fruit, so if you must have a small one, I suppose it would get my nod.

Fruit tree roots aren't particularly invasive. But any tree, if it gets big enough, could lift a concrete sidewalk. They shouldn't damage any foundation worth a lick. If you plant a lot of trees close together and summer prune to keep them small that would give you lots of fruit and limit any potential for damage. Check out the Dave Wilson website on backyard orchard culture. I can highly recommend Dave Wilson's Arctic series of white nectarines starting with Arctic Star and proceeding thru Arctic Rose, Arctic Jay, Arctic Queen, and Arctic Blaze. You can buy all from Bay Laurel Nursery. There are many other good choices of nectarines, persimmons, and pears in the bay laurel catalog. Order in mid Nov while the selection is good. If you like white nectarines you will like the following pluots: Geo Pride, Flavor Grenade, and Flavor Finale. These will give you later fruit than the nectarines. For early fruit get a Tomcot and Robada apricot. Also early would be a couple sweet cherries on Giesla 5 rootstock. You could plant 20 or 30 trees in 100ft and have fruit all summer and fall. The Fruitnut

As a few others have said, all of the trees you mentioned are considered small trees and not shade trees. To be a shade tree you really need to go to 50'-60'. That said, Lag. Natchez is a great tree but is kind of slow. In the lawn it will grow faster because of the water. Prunus c. Krauters Vesuvius is listed at 18' in Sunset. Great purple leaves all season, no fall color. Let me throw in another specimen, Magnolia souliangiana. Grows to 25'. Sunset says it's a good lawn tree. Good spring purple flowers, not much fall color. I would give up on shade if you want to keep your lawn and other plants looking good. If you do want shade my favorite tree is Acer freemanii Autumn Blaze or A. f. October Glory.Both grow fast to 60'. Nyssa sylvatica or Tupelo grows 30'-50'. Moderately slow, WONDERFUL fall leaves. I hope this helps you clarify your needs. By the way, if you do plant a tree I'd suggest about 10'-12' in a line between the door and the window to the left of the door. Help your tree out by removing about a 5'-6' circle of grass, then mulch. This keeps weed eaters away from the base of the tree. Good Luck.

i would not call that a 'yard' .. i would call that utility access ... and if i understand the map.. this connect one driveway with another from the alley ??? why is/are the a/c on the sidewalk ... is that permanent??? i dont understand this part: The wall is on our property but the top of the wall is our neighbors i see some patio stone.. to go around the a/c?? ,,, is the rest of the walkway poured.. or is that also block that can be moved??? thinking outside the box.. if possible.. you could make a much wider usable bed.. if the walkway was moved to the house.. to to the wall ... arbors.. strategically placed.. can aid as exterior window covering ... i am not TX expert.. but morning glory.. clematis.. autumn flower clematis [better be a stout arbor.. lol ..] ... all could be trained to provide a vertical screen.. with little or no footprint ... frankly.. i can think of no 'tree' that would work ... as i do not like planting things that i have to trim.. 2 or 3 times per year ... ken