If you have the time keep the tree, if not then buy another one or move it to a less important location. Norway spruce in some states is considered invasive, so check out if that is so in IA. You need some really big generational type trees London Plan, oaks.... lots of choices really. Some nice "boring" green trees will help to balance out the color of the Norways and the seasonal color of the others. The only question left then is the actual layout of the trees. Usually that should be decided upon first before any trees are bought. Also consider what is the purpose of the tree screening, enery conservation, wind break, etc.

My first choice, I think, would be the "no tree" choice. I'm also curious about the fate of the serviceberry. Did it die? Trees do eventually die. Or, since they don't read the tag telling them how tall and wide they should be, they keep growing. Happy trees can get quite a bit bigger than those numbers, which usually reflect the average size at either 5 or 10 years. Did the serviceberry outgrow its spot? If the space is pretty small, then you may well still live to make a decision about removing the next tree. But, if you want a tree, you could also have years and years of enjoyment. Part of the decision has to do with your personal love affair with trees, which might trump design concerns. Hope you are familiar with the Morton Arboretum. They've got a website, and you could go there for a lovely fall treat. They grow and research trees all day. They also develop some of their own varieties under the Chicagoland program or some such name. I didn't keep the web address for the following recommendations from Morton. They have, by the way, recommendations for small, medium, and large trees and for small, medium, and large shrubs. The notes I have go beyond giving just the name, but that's all I've listed below. If you want the fuller description, you'd have to do a search. They give botanical name, common name, height and spread, growing needs, growth rate, ornamental features, uses in the landscape, etc. Here's the list of "small" trees recommended for the midwest garden: Acer griseum Amelanchier x grandiflora (service berry) Amelanchier x grandiflora ÂAutumn Brilliance (This one I have. Truly 4 season. Again, itÂs a serviceberry.) Amelanchier laevis (Allegheny serviceberry) Cercis Canadensis (redbud) Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)  Probably too big for your space, but itÂs on their list of "small" trees. Cornus mas Cornus mas 'Golden Glory' Crataegus viridis 'Winter King' Halesia tetraptera Magnolia xloebneri 'Leonard Messel' Magnolia xloebneri 'Merrill' Magnolia stellata  Smallest magnolia suggested here. 8  10Â. Magnolia virginiana  10-20 Malus 'Donald Wyman' (crabapple, best in full sun) Malus 'Prairifire' Malus 'Sutyzam' Syringa pekinensis (Peking Lilac) Syringa pekinensis 'Morton' has amber colored exfoliating bark Syringa reticulata Syringa reticulata 'Ivory Silk'

Yes, Box Elder, Acer negundo. WW

If cost isn't a problem... Then plant what you want to plant and enjoy. Trim / Remove later as necessary. Keep in mind also, depending on many factors, some trees will grow much more slowly than expected, some may grow faster. I have just less than 1/2 acre. If I just counted right in my head, I have 27 trees currently planted, not counting volunteers. Including 2 weeping willows, A curly willow, a pussy willow, poplars, river birches, all the things they tell you not to plant in a residential lot. Over half are 50+ foot trees when mature. I planted about 50 dogwood bushes last summer, now many are over 6' tall, some around 10' tall. I now have 4 Japanese Maples planted, and am planning on getting more. I also have about 60 different Hosta. I've totally enjoyed planting these trees, most just in the past year. It is a blast to watch them grow. I am particularly fond of the weeping willow I planted right by the road in the front yard. It was a 4 foot high stick just about a year ago and now is close to 15' high by 10' wide. It's fun. I find good deals on most of my trees, and the most expensive one was about $90 for a Autumn Blaze maple (10+ gallon pot) that was rather large - I would never buy a large one again, It is growing very slowly this year, while I watched a $10 maple (that came in a 1 gallon pot) of the same type just a short distance away grow to close to the same height as the $90 maple and grow branches like mad. At this rate, next year, the $10 tree will actually look larger than the $90 tree. In 5 or 10 years if I have to heavily prune some trees, bonsai them, remove them, or what not, then that is the way it is. I'm planting some sumac and a tree of heaven also (in a great big pot). I also have over 70 trees growing in pots currently. Some will be bonsai, some I will sell, some I will plant. If you later figure out a tree is a problem, try to remove while it is small enough you can do it. If cost isn't an issue, let the sucker grow and have it professionally trimmed / removed as necessary. I can manage pruning and removal of all but the very largest trees. I took down my 60' + dying spruce last summer with a sawzall. I get compliments on my landscaping from strangers that walk by, on a very regular basis, though some think I am crazy with all my trees, many appreciate the beauty of it, including me. I do vote for getting some long lived trees going if at all possible, such as the oak your speaking of. The oak is a good tree that should last more than your life time with reasonable care. Jamie p.s. don't plant any weak wooded trees real close to the house e.g. willow, poplar, silver maple. and I share ken's dislike for most fruit trees on smaller lots. Were planting some new fruit trees up north on 5 acres, which is fine on that size lot. In the city I limited my fruit trees to a single semi-dwarf cherry tree - that gets cleaned up rapidly by the birds. Thought my parents have had a apple tree in their side yard (city lot) for 20+ years with few problems, it is kind of out of the way, so the bugs don't bother them and it does need to be sprayed if you want to have good apples.