The University of Missouri has a system called Missouri Gravel Beds that was designed to hold bareroot trees for all season planting. The gravel beds are pea gravel and turface which is quite close to gritty mix. Considering they use that system to hold 12 foot trees and gritty mix holds more water, I think gritty mix can work just fine for bareroot trees. It will definitely be easier than barerooting a cotainer plant.

Hi Everyone, I totally agree with Drew 51. I have 25 assorted fruit trees and I have purchased some bareroot and some containerized. I have gotten desired results with both. With the bareroot, you have more access to the roots of the plant in terms of how they should lay-on the otherhand, containerized trees are pretty much structured to the size of the container that they have been placed in. However; once I remove the plant from the container, I gently tap the sides, bottom and top so that the roots can breathe a little and hang out. (Its like going out for a drive after being stuck in the house all day-LOL) Anyway, once I get the roots free from the container and loosen them up in just those areas I mentioned-I replant and all goes well. It can get a little challenging when you have to lay the tree on its side to carefully loosen up the roots but I do this with every containerized tree and I have never lost a plant so far, bareroot or containerized. However, bareroot, I feel like I have more control because I am starting almost from scratch. I can handle the roots a lot more generously because there is nothing but just the roots to deal with. I can mix in whatever growing mediums I need for that specific tree right from the start and stretch out the roots the way they should be-to avoid the curl. And as Drew51 pointed out, its all about the cultivar, size and price that are of the utmost priority; I feel the exact same way as well. Yet, in my experience though, I seem to acquire fruit faster from the containerized trees than the bareroots.

I prefer quality bareroots from good vendors as opposed to potted roses. I buy potted roses only when I cannot find them bareroots. They are least expensive not to mention the shipping +boxes+ handling fees etc. With bareroots I pay the price of the roses and the shipping cost, no extra fees added. Shipping from Canada is less expensive than buying potted roses from states close to me. And I get my plants when I need them. I pay fro them when they shipped or, as in case of palatine, they request deposits but the entire amount is not charges when I place the order. Finally they will grow better and bigger and I don't have to wait years for them to mature. But, I must say, I got absolutely wonderful plants from Chamblee's although shipping price was a murder. Not as bad as getting a few bands or 3 potless ownroots from the west cost, but still it was high. Cost of bareroots shipping has been always more sensible.

“At a whim,” I love it, you’re my kind of gardener! Wonderful choices by the way, I’m interested to see how your Princess Alexandra of Kent performs in bloom frequency and color. I go back and forth about getting her (all those petals and that pink just grab me) as I’ve heard mixed reviews here about her turning an awful salmony color for some. I have several DA’s and our temps here usually get to a high of 95 -105… at that point the new growth on all my roses that don’t get afternoon shade fry. I have to cut them back a bit after it passes. They do recover nicely, as if it never happened. I also have drip irrigation and use the Dig brand adjustable micro bubbler. I set it on the 6th notch when twisting to the left. My zone runs for 6 minutes on M, W, F and Sat. When the temp gets above 80-85 consistently, then I water twice a day and everyday but Sunday. I have very heavy clay soil but amend the holes I plant the roses in. I’ve never had a problem with any signs of over watering. In fact, I became so aggressive with the watering after a frightening experience when on a 90 degree day I looked out my window and my Falling in Love hybrid tea rose was bent over limp… canes laying in the ground! She survived and is thriving but I felt like a terrible rose mother. As long as the soil isn’t a constant sopping wet I feel like the roses can take the water… keep in mind that where I live it only rains in the winter… I get no rain for spring and summer so adjust your watering accordingly. Also, drip irrigation only waters a small portion of the roots, so it’s not like the entire bush is sitting in water. It still amazes me how plants survive with this method. Give it a go, trial and error in my opinion is the best way to learn what works for you, your plants and their environment. I’ve had plants that we’re supposed to perform fail and ones that should have failed excel. My supposed winter blooming hellebores mystify me and only bloom in the spring and summer… go figure. BTW, I agree… in no time you’ll be offering advice to others here. You got this!