Sherry, best wishes on your quest for that rose! I think I understand Maryl's point that RMV is neither a guarantee of abysmal performance in a given rose, nor is virus-indexed source a "magic bullet." I've seen quite a few roses I knew were virused never thrive; others do fine initially but then decline. BUT, I agree there could be other factors in why a particular rose is not healthy. RMV just happens to be a good suspect. But like Maryl's example, I've also had a few roses I knew were virused (due to the tell-tale marbled pattern on occasional leaves) that nevertheless performed quite respectably. I've had specimens of Peace and Tiffany that did just fine. I only had mine less than 4 years, so how they would have done after 10 I don't know. If the research literature is correct though, a given RMV-infected specimen will still tend to do significantly worse over several years than that same specimen were it virus-free. Whatever the reason for your CI's failing to thrive, it seems a good chance that the stock is weak for whatever reason. If you replace them with a source that has received good reviews (like RU), I think you'll be happy. I hope they'll have some available soon. If not, you might consider ordering from Northland Rosarium in Washington State. You have to order it specifically for spring, but they have a very good reputation for quality own-root roses, and they do try to screen out RMV-infected stock. As for the potted vs. in-ground issue, I should have mentioned my roses are all potted. I have a suspician I can't prove that own-root roses are happiest when given a chance to develop for a while in a pot with good potting medium, rather than being planted in the ground as a little rooted cutting. Plus, if you're in central or southern Florida, you don't want to plant into the ground unless you're planting China rose varieties or roses grafted onto Fortuniana. Potting the roses and keeping the pot out of direct contact with the soil from the ground will help keep root-rot nematodes from invading the rose's root area. Mike

Winter cutting is an option. For years I use this method for multiple fruits However, there are certain conditions for achieving results. A good start is half the battle. Winter cutting means, take cuttings about 30 cm long pensil thick to survive they need reserve substances use a good rooting hormone. plant cuttings about 20 cm deep in a good airy soil mixture and leave them all winter long dormancy outdoors Frost can do any harm, you need protect them from drying freezing cold wind. second option: take your cuttings and keep them until March. keep them in a plastic bag and keep on a dark cool place, optionally you can use clonex and leave it till March. By this time you can see callus, thatâÂÂs a good sign. After that you can plant in soil. third possibility: Propagating plants by air layering : application in spring you can find plenty info on the web. fourth application: propagation of pear rootstocks Quince simply through a bottle of water. happy growing pears from cuttings Alcedo

Judith: Pumice is porous volcanic rocks with neutral pH, versus red and black lava rock at high pH over 9. Pumice comes in smaller particles, and used for growing succulents with its fast drainage. Pumice is very expensive at over $25 for 3 gallons, versus I can get a 40 lb. of lava rock for $6 at Menards store. Inviting everyone to continue the discussion on soil & fertilizer & own roots in below new link, since this thread is getting too long: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6252246/tips-for-own-root-vs-grafted-roses-in-pots-longagoroses-bands#n=11

Thank you, Stephanie, for the tip of Garden Tutor Soil pH Test kit strips. I find that soil pH test via a solution (red-cabbage juice) is more accurate since it takes at least 1/2 hour for the minerals in soil to dissolve in water. I tested soaking coffee ground in red-cabbage juice, at first it was acidic (pinkish), but after 1/2 hour soak, the solution became clear, coffee ground is known as a buffer. Same with rose park nearby, they scattered a layer of gypsum on top of their clay. I scoop up 1 heaping Tablespoon of their soil and tested in red cabbage juice. At first the solution turned pinkish (acidic), from the 18% of sulfur dissolved first. After 1 hour, the solution became very blue (alkaline), from the calcium of gypsum being slowest to dissolve, plus the alkaline minerals in soil was slow to dissolve. SARENA: for the reason above, it's best to mix gypsum 1 month in advance into soil, and let rain or a few waterings release its acidic sulfur to dissolve minerals in soil (rather than to corrode roots). Since you are in a high-rain climate, it's good to have solid minerals on top to buffer acidic rain, such as a thick layer of Worm Casting (pH 7.4), or your clay (if alkaline like mine at pH 7.7). Vermiculite is to improve moisture and to hold nutrients, plus to make potting soil fluffy for wimpy own-roots. Perlite has zero nutrients but good to MIX-IN so roots can have more oxygen for growth. Own-root roses like moist but airy soil. Both vermiculite and perlite is best mixed into potting soil. One rooting method recommended by University of CA at Davis is to mix 1/2 vermiculite (for moisture & cation exchange) plus 1/2 perlite (for aeration).