Ratings of scents & vigor for own root roses and LongAgoRoses
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Long Ago Roses...
Comments (13)umm, I am confused by RVRs website. I am thinking that there is no way, a baby band can be in a 5 gallon or 2 gallon pot. That's more like a regular young own-root, similar to what Roses Unlimited sells. In my humble opinion, it is very difficult for me to imagine getting heavy top growth from true actual baby bands. Baby bands stay very delicate in proportion to their size because they've been raised straight from cuttings and are less than a year old. An older baby band may be larger because it sat around unbought, but I would say it's pretty rare to get a top heavy baby band, in my humble opinion? Or am I just confused? But I do want to stress that Linda at Long Ago Roses does not have a greenhouse to coddle her bands. A weak band with weak roots is not going to survive winter. And no puny weak root system is going to be able to support two basal canes like my Viking Queen band. So do I have confidence in a great root system with my baby bands? ABSOLUTELY! You are right in that size of leaves and blooms never indicate a band's health, but what does give a sign is how fast does this band send up brand new growth and what is the texture and coloration of that new growth. All my baby bands leaves were in direct proportion to the girth of their canes so that indicates that the bands were not over-fertilized and manipulated into sending premature growth. In other words they are genuinely healthy bands with a good root system. Another thing you might consider is that baby bands do better pre-potted or cushioned with an "insulation" of potting mix because the potting mix is similar to the soil used in a nursery and it is easier for the roots to push through the potting mix as opposed to clumpy native soils. That way the roots have time to gradually adjust as rain and earthworms gradually seep in the native soil into the potting soil. Plus when the roots are strong and vital they will naturally push their own roots outwards into the native soil when they are good and ready. Sometimes native soils can be too harsh for certain baby bands and baby perennials. I've never lost a baby band from initiating them into my garden, but I did lose weak baby perennials (1/2"-2" in size from American Meadows) when I tried to plant them directly into my native soil without using potting mix as a buffer. All baby perennials that were insulated survived. My other perennial company Bluestone Meadows had very healthy root systems and were much larger, so I didn't need to worry about cushioning them with potting mix, but the ones that I did decide to "pamper" just took off like crazy, whereas the non-cushioned ones took longer to establish themselves....See MoreAustin Roses - grafted bare root or own root?
Comments (19)I have only two Austins (Golden Celebration and Darcey Bussell) on DH roots and they are planted in a spot with Sycamore root competition, which is probably the only reason I can grow them there. They both have spotless foliage. I am inland quite a bit and at 1800ft. We do get May-Gray and June-Gloom, but it burns off by between 10AM and noon. I have Paul Neyron, which is a rust bucket right next to Rein de Violettes with pristine foliage, never a spot of rust or mildew. All my Teas get a little mildew except Monsieur Tillier. My Lady of Shallot is on her own roots and does very well with perfect foliage. I really want Evelyn but now I am a little scared by the 12 foot canes jerijen mentions. I have Star of the Republic with only a couple blooms that have been scented and I really want scent in my roses so thinking about replacing with Evelyn. But will give SotR a 3rd year to see if those blooms get consistent scent. The 3 or so blooms that I caught with some scent were an amazing strong lemony fragrance. Maybe just doesn't give scent in the heat? I also have James Gallway on its own roots and near Golden Celebration but further from the sycamore. It is establishing more slowly and not behaving like a climber at all yet, next year with be year 3 so maybe I'll get long canes in the Spring....See MoreWhat is your favorite mail-order source for roses? Preferably own-root
Comments (106)@BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14) Great information, thank you! Like Aaron, I want to know what you think of Flavorette Honey Apricot rose. Also, please be careful when you plant it. This past year I received plants (not roses) from Proven Winners, ordered directly from the Proven Winners website, that had lots of bugs in the soil. :( I know you wrote this rose is from Garden Crossings, but please check the soil carefully anyway. My Spring order from them was clean with no issues, but my early summer order was really bad: snails, worms, ants, and a spider. I dropped one of the pots when taking it out of the box because all the ants started running out. Last year, I bought a Proven Winners plant at a local nursery and when I planted it noticed it had the invasive earthworm. Since that was from a nursery I can't blame Proven Winners, but just want to ask you to please be careful anyway....See MoreTips for own root versus grafted roses in pots & LongAgoRoses bands
Comments (100)Thank you, Stephanie, for the tip of Garden Tutor Soil pH Test kit strips. I find that soil pH test via a solution (red-cabbage juice) is more accurate since it takes at least 1/2 hour for the minerals in soil to dissolve in water. I tested soaking coffee ground in red-cabbage juice, at first it was acidic (pinkish), but after 1/2 hour soak, the solution became clear, coffee ground is known as a buffer. Same with rose park nearby, they scattered a layer of gypsum on top of their clay. I scoop up 1 heaping Tablespoon of their soil and tested in red cabbage juice. At first the solution turned pinkish (acidic), from the 18% of sulfur dissolved first. After 1 hour, the solution became very blue (alkaline), from the calcium of gypsum being slowest to dissolve, plus the alkaline minerals in soil was slow to dissolve. SARENA: for the reason above, it's best to mix gypsum 1 month in advance into soil, and let rain or a few waterings release its acidic sulfur to dissolve minerals in soil (rather than to corrode roots). Since you are in a high-rain climate, it's good to have solid minerals on top to buffer acidic rain, such as a thick layer of Worm Casting (pH 7.4), or your clay (if alkaline like mine at pH 7.7). Vermiculite is to improve moisture and to hold nutrients, plus to make potting soil fluffy for wimpy own-roots. Perlite has zero nutrients but good to MIX-IN so roots can have more oxygen for growth. Own-root roses like moist but airy soil. Both vermiculite and perlite is best mixed into potting soil. One rooting method recommended by University of CA at Davis is to mix 1/2 vermiculite (for moisture & cation exchange) plus 1/2 perlite (for aeration)....See Morestrawchicago z5
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