wordwiz, I cannot fully agree with you, at least for my garden. (and yet the world will continue to turn :) In my hot climate, I water daily with a hose and make the rounds of my pots twice, letting the water run through the pot the second time (here's where the leaching occurs). If I don't fully wet all the soil in the pot, I would have to water more than once a day, and that's not practical for me. In a milder climate, I am sure your way would work. No doubt, a weekly feeding would work, maybe better, but that's why I use the Osmocote. After having plants rot and/or smother in pots, I made the decision to use only commercial potting mixes several years ago. I do not add manure or compost to them (though compost would likely work, needing to be changed yearly, I expect). I recently had a friend asking me what is wrong with her tomatoes in pots. When I ascertained that she added half manure to her potting mix, I recommended that she dump out the pot and repot. I believe our climate is too humid, and our season too long to tolerate anything that reduces drainage or air uptake. I completely agree with digdirt when he said that since potting mix is not organic, there are no microorganisms to stimulate with compost or manures. I would add that there are also no earthworms in it to keep it stirred up, therefore manures, etc. just become totally compacted and smother the life out of the plants. Our difference of experience just goes to prove that gardening is not exactly the same from one climate region to another, and even from one garden to another. We all have to learn to adapt to our conditions. dgb, If I had enough compost, I would add a couple inches to the beds each time I plant a new crop, but I do not. So, I topdress all of the beds in late winter/very early spring (if the compost is not perfectly finished) or at spring planting time (if it is). I also add about a pound of Blood Meal to each of my beds (8'x3.5') and work it in with a spade at planting time. So far, the plants look the best they ever have, so I have not side-dressed them. At this point, I would be more likely to give them a liquid feed of Fish Emulsion if they start to look needy, but so far, so good. I will likely give the beds another 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen in mid summer when it's time for the second crop: 1/2 pound for beans/peas, and 1 pound for squash, cucs, etc. Come fall, I'll give them another pound for fall/winter vegs: brassicas, onions, lettuce, etc (along with some more compost if I have it). Tomatoes and peppers are, of course, an all season crop. I very well may side dress them again with blood meal in mid summer, but I am going to keep an eye on the plants and see how they look. I don't want to overdo the nitrogen at the expense of fruit. Again, I would love for other organic growers to join in to this conversation.

It is a low dose fertilizer, which is fine but different plants need different amounts of feeding and at different times. So it isn't a set schedule for the whole garden. Broccoli and cucumbers need more N than tomatoes and peppers but tomatoes need a bit more than peppers do. It also depends on how much you amended your garden soil before planting. If you added lots of good compost nutrients to the soil before planting then only the broccoli and cukes may need some after the first couple of weeks or so. Tomatoes and peppers after the first fruit set and then approx. every 6 weeks or so. But those are just very general guidelines. You learn with time and experience to tell when the plant needs feeding rather than going by a day of the week. Dave

Water long enough so the water penatrates the soil and saturates your current root zone and then add about an extra 10 - 15 %. Water again at the above measured time when the plants show the slightest sign of water stress. Check your root zone depth from as the season moves on adjust as needed. The frequency will depend on weather factors. I'm not a Tomatoe expert but thats about how you water anything ... believe it or not... except some plants can go longer with more water stress. Good Day ...

Thank you for all your suggestions. Good to hear I do not have to worry about fertilizing this year. I'll remember to water, abeit tentatively, because last fall I killed our lovely 2 year old Bloodgood maple with too much love, er, watering. What makes fushia different from these shurbs, other than it's flowering? Since planting I gave it fertilizer monthly during the growing season because otherwise, the leaves would turn yellow. The fushia is in the ground and looks like a small shrub. It seems to love my homemade compost better, though -- it's looking quite green these days. Amy