Apples pick up most of their N. in early spring just as they leaf out, as I understand it, because it is when they are pushing out a lot of fine root. The roots do a smaller surge in late summer and N at that time can be drawn right up into the buds so it's already there when trees start to grow the following year. I am speaking of free standing apple trees. Dwarfs are often served a more continuous dose. Cherries are capable of a more indeterminate growth habit if you control aphids, so a light late spring and mid- summer ap might push them a bit. A total annual amount of 2 pounds actual N per 1,000 sq. ft. is what I shoot for. I don't recommend more than 4.

Thanks Karyn, I knew someone would come through for me. I'm just using the milk jugs on my brug plants. That way I can make sure they get the fertilizer on them and it slowly soak into the ground. This way I have no run off. I water everything else except the dogwoods with a waterhose. Let me restate that, with several 100 ft water hoses hooked together. THey are extremely hard to pull when they are full of water. LOL I know this sounds awful but the last time I used the Epson Salt I just threw some on the ground around the plants and watered it in slowly. I guess that's the lazy way of doing things huh? I'm really thrilled with how big my plants are getting. I can't wait until this fall to see just how big they will get. Well I've got to run out and water a few things. I was holding off because it was suppose to rain but it looks like it's already south of us so...I'll go drag the hose around and water some of the stuff that looks dry. P.S. Those squash we're eatting are out of this world. George grilled some of them on the grill and they were to die for. ummmm ummmm Good! Happy Gardening, and thanks for the advice. Marian

Momma: About using Epsom salt. It is magnesium sulfate with water crystalyzed in (no calcium). It is often necessary to use on citrus if the water contains excess calcium (lime) which will show up as hardness in the kitchen and bath. Our city lies about the water. If you know anyone with a pool get them to test your water if you think you have hard water. Or get test kit yourself. Alkaline is pH above 7 (aka basic). Acid is below 7 pH. Most citrus are comfortable on the slightly acid side, about 6-7. Do not go treating with acid blindly and meters can be unreliable When I say comfortable I mean the actual roots of the tree perform well in absorbing nutrients. A grafted tree, is usually adapting the fruiting top to a local soil and water type by using a rootstock determined best by trial and error. However big box stores today dont care about that and sell you whatever they can. Try to find out if your tree is a cutting or grafted. Cuttings can handle a wider range pH than many rootstocks. They may need staking though. If you keep your tree in a outside in in z9b I reccommend an outer container with an air gap to avoid overheating the roots. Or some other shade on the roots can be helpful. Sun on the roots will cause huge problems. Roots like to be in the mid 80s max but that is impossible. Only after strictly controlling water pH and root temps can we discuss your original question. My pots are all outside in z9a/b and I try to keep modified organic program. My mix is based on pine bark and sand and is an attraction to earthworms. I tried perlite but our humidity is just too high. So I have to use a lot of water with a fast draining mix. I use 1 tbs Microlife 6,2,4 every 3 months in a 7 gal std nursery container. And 1/4 tsp/ gal potassium nitrate in the water twice a month along with 1/2 tsp / gal Epsom salt. I adjust the pH to ~6.5 with vinegar every time I water. I do not have the problems Mike has because the earthworms take care of the mix. It is O.K. to use a fertilizer or soil ammendment with urea if it says for citrus. That means they have taken out the impurity toxic to citrus which commercial urea contains. You can also use very small quantities of regular urea if it is in an ammendment because the impurity is small, the microbes will handle it if you use microbe promoting techniques. In hot dry periods when I have to water extra, I add nitrate and Mg more often. I stop fertilizing after mid Sept. to induce cold hardiness. In the spring my trees are looking starved but they can take 25 deg prolonged and never blink. One more thing, your lemon will be more likely to bear if you dont over pot it. That is, 5 gal -> 7 gal or 10 gal max. When these container plants feel constricted they respond with fruit, when you over pot they respond with vegatative growth. This is reason to go slow on the the fert. You cant be certain of how the thing will react to repotting. If I went over your head, pls ask on any point. I tried to not get too deep on any so you can catch up. Welcome to the wonderful world of citrus. Mike: Ppm / gal is incorrect. Use ppm. Or use Quantity / unit vol or unit weight. Larry

Well, I'll chime in with a straight face, MOL..... my 'maters are all in pots, and need water at least twice a day, I mix up some MG in a bucket and pour some into each bucket I have next to each plant, I keep that water-bucket there so all I have to do is dip out some water and not drag the hose all over the yard.. so essentially I am giving each 'mater some liquid fertilizer each time I water...I won't even speculate at what strength but the water is blue, from the MG... most of my 'maters are getting pretty big, they are from last year's planting Tom brought me.... but they are still setting fruit so I keep them going even tho' they are pot-bound now.....I speculate that the only thing that keeps them going is the liquid fert., by now, because any other nutrient in the potting-mix has been long-gone..... works for me.... sally