Good Morning Zidane, The import of plant material into Canada is currently reglulated by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's Plant Protection Division (CFIA). I believe a decision was just recently made by the Canadian government to transfer Plant Protection responsibilities back to Agriculture Canada, but I'm not certain when that will happen. Your best plan of attack would be to contact the Oregon Department of Agriculture and tell them what you wish to do. ODA will be the ones who inspect your roses and provide you with the required Phytosanitary Certificate for export to Canada. They will also know what the certification requirents are and what the Phyto must attest to. Once you have things organized with ODA, I would suggest that you contact the CFIA in Vancouver and discuss things with a Program Officer with the Plant Protection Program in that office. When you are ready to move the plants to Canada, you will have to present them and the Phytosanitary Certificate to a Canadian Border Services Officer. They may choose to hold them for inspection by CFIA at the border, or more likely let you move them through for inspection by CFIA at destination. The good news is that no Import Permit is required between Canada and the U.S. I import roses from Oregon and other U.S. nurseries often. The CFIA has an online web system called the "Automated Import Reference System" (AIRS). As with all things scientific regulated by governments, plant import requirements are complex. AIRS allows you to access requirements for specific species and types of plants from various places and determine admissibility and import requirements. I have inputed a search for roses, with soil from Oregon to be imported into British Columbia for planting. The result is pasted below: ______________________________ Recommendations to CBSA/Documentation and Registration Requirements Refer to CFIA-NISC(must be accompanied by the following documents\registrations):•Phytosanitary Certificate Importer / Broker Instructions DOCUMENTATION INSTRUCTIONS PHYTOSANITARY CERTIFICATE - Obtain from Country of Export prior to importation. CONDITIONS OF IMPORT The Phytosanitary Certificate must accompany the shipment. The material must be certified free from Columbia Root Knot Nematode (MELOIDOGYNE CHITWOODI). 1)The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations: "The material was produced and prepared for export in accordance with the conditions of entry specified in Quarantine Directive 82-01 of February 1, 1982." or "The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Meloidogyne chitwoodi does not occur." Requirements for European brown garden snail (Cornu aspersum, syn. Helix aspersa): The Phytosanitary Certificate must list the following additional declaration: "The plants in this consignment were inspected and found to be free of European brown garden snail (Helix aspersa/Cornu aspersum)." 1)The material must be certified free from European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA). The phytosanitary certificate must bear one of the following additional declarations: "The soil originated in an area in which, on the basis of official surveys, Helix aspersa does not occur." OR "Material is free of European brown garden snail (HELIX ASPERSA)." 1)Requirements for Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica): The shipment must be accompanied by a Phytosanitary Certificate indicating the state of origin, OR a U.S. Nursery Certification Program Phytosanitary Certificate OR Shipping documents showing a U.S. Greenhouse Certification Program label. A Phytosanitary Certificate is required to accompany the consignment, containing the following Additional Declaration: "This shipment conforms to 7 CFR 301.92 which regulates the movement of nursery stock for Phytophthora ramorum from the States of California, Oregon, and Washington." OR "The soil originated in a production site in which, on the basis of official surveys, Phytophthora ramorum is not known to occur." --------------------------------------------------------- Moving your roses across the border should be relatively stress free, provided you do you homework with ODA and the CFIA. Good luck. Cheers, Rick

JJ and Lily, I move roses around like they were furniture in a living room. Here is my best experiences. First, when possible, I move them as soon as the dirt is thawed enough to be dug in the spring when they are dormant. Dig the destination holes first. Next, dig a large area around the roots to take as much root with you as possible AND, take as much dirt as possible. I use 2 shovels and place the rose between them before I lift them out. Sort of like a shovel/rose sandwich. Then I place them in their new hole and add water and fill in with dirt. Most often they don’t even know they have been moved. To do it later in the season is tricky. I did it last year. I used old sheets on copper pipe trellises in front of the roses and made sure I watered twice a day. It was 90-100 degrees. I moved 4 of them,and 3 of them were little. The 3 little ones did great. The jury is still out on the larger rose. It’s canes stayed green, but it didn’t grow leaves afterwards, so I’ll find out if it’s alive this spring. Believe it or not, I am going to be moving 3 of those 4 roses again this spring... it’s just the way I do. :) If you like the location, JJ, I would give them another year. Use a good fertilizer (I use Osmocote 1/4 cup per plant early in the spring) and water them well during the season. See if that doesn’t make a difference. Rebecca

wanted to give everyone an update! I moved over five roses about 2 days ago and when I have checked on them they look great! 3 of them don't even look like they are in shock at all and 2 are only very slightly wilty at the very tops. the weather was warm but not to hot/kind of cool, partly overcast, and light rain. Turned out to be perfect! The day I moved them I pulled them up and put them in their new spots (I could remember at least I KNOW I planted tall ones in the back and short ones in the front so I just kept them generally the same depth into the garden but moved them all way over to the right). Then I built little shades for them using landscaping fabric and bamboo sticks, set up the shades to block sun from the west and close to but not touching the roses. Watered them gently 3x the day I moved them. I am shocked at how good they look and am so happy! When my husband came up the driveway I was setting up the shades and I told him "I'm growing pirate ships!" because he was confused as to why there were black sails all over the garden hahah.

The only good privet is a dead privet -- my personal opinion. I removed a half-dozen first thing upon moving here and many in the neighborhood have followed suit (though not completely enough to totally eliminate those endless invasive seedlings). There are so many better trees. Some of the last ones left around here are, unfortunately, my neighbor's and on our fenceline. At least one of them is deeply infected with honey root fungus, to which they are highly susceptible. The presence of those infected roots on my side of the fence means I can only plant resistant species there, and that certainly does not include roses, which are also very susceptible. I keep praying ferverently for their death, or that the neighbor will take them out, considering how wretched they look, but honey root fungus takes a long time to kill entirely. Good to see 'Anna Olivier' coming back. I have also become an unwilling experimenter with cutting back roses hard (though not moving them, fortunately), due to having to accommodate tent fumigation for drywood termites. A few roses were even unavoidably within the tent due to having to include a pergola. So far, all have come roaring back, though the upper half of 'Narrow Water' did seem to suffer some from the fumigant. It is, however, putting up several strong-looking new basals and a lot of good foliage below the 3' level.