Well I don't know if I'd say "down pat" haha. I've tried a few methods so far. What I've come to learn is that it's really been mostly a matter of what plant you are taking a rooting of. Mirandy, for example, roots really easily, while others are a little more difficult like Variegata de Bologna for me. The method I use the most frequently is cutting a 2L pop bottle in half and putting some loose soil that doesn't pack together in it. I never put the cap on. I always leave the cap off for some ventilation and if it's hot in the summer I put it in a bright room like a sunporch but not in direct light for about a week or so....judgement call. After which, I actually will wake up in the morning and take the top half of the 2L off and let the plants sit in direct morning light for a few hours, but bring them in if it's too hot because they will obviously get torched by the heat without a root system. I drill holes in the bottom of the pop container for drainage and soak the soil. I take cuttings and just put the cut area in a solution of water and a just a LITTLE BIT of liquid fertilizer(miracle gro). By a little bit, I mean I take leftover prescription pill bottles, fill them with water and put in maybe 10 flakes of liquid fertilizer(very little). Just enough to get absorbed without any chance of burning it. Sometimes I use rooting hormone and other times I don't. In the summer, it takes about 3 weeks to root them when I see the roots at the bottom. The other approach I used was 1gal plastic baggies with soil in them. This approach works as well, but I tended to notice that mold and disease seems to affect the cuttings more(typically) due to the amount of moisture build up in the bag. I've actually had a few root just randomly. Midway through this summer, I pruned my original Pat Austin bush and had a lot left over, so just for curiosity's sake I put like 5 or 6 cuttings in a gallon milk jug cut in half......with no top.......no nothing. It was basically just an exposed pot where I kept the soil moist. They were actually in rather harsh conditions as well because I didn't care much for them, and they were open to 2-3 hours of mid day sun, but only a few didn't root and the remaining ones that survived are the ones I actually planted outside in her planter box and by her house. It's kind of more of an art than a method. On the bright side, if you ever prune the roses and just have leftover canes with buds on them, you can always experiment and give it a whirl and see what results you get. If they all die, it's not like you are missing out on much considering they were canes you were just going to pitch anyways. :)

The coefficient of expansion is different for each size of pipe, but for illustration let us consider 3/4" CPVC. For 3/4" CPVC the expansion is 1" per 100' of pipe for every 1degF of temperature change. Assuming the pipe begins at an ambient temp of 70 degress when you start your shower and the hot water is set for the code max of 125 degF the temperature differential in the pipe would be 125-70 = 55degF. The thermal expansion would then be 55" per 100ft of pipe. We rarely see a run of pipe longer than 50' in a residential system, but even at 50ft the thermal expansion would be 27.5". The CPVC installation handbook suggests a 18" expansion loop at every 30' on a straight run and the loop should be located near the center of the run. To make the expansion loop the pipe is cut and a 90deg elbow is installed. The line is then stubbed out 18" and a 90deg elbow is installed. A short 4 to 6" length of tubing to another 90deg elbow turning back towards the original pipe and then connect the loop to the original pipe with another 90deg elbow. On the ends where the pipe drops down through holes the pipe should be run about 18" to one side of the hole with an 18" offset from the pipe to the hole. IN this manner as the pipe expands the 18" horizontal offsets can flex slightly to absorb the expansion. Insulating the pipe will not prevent the expansion because the temperature differential results from the temp of the liquid in the pipe, however if the pipe is first insulated, then pipe hangers large enough to fit the exterior of the pipe insulation are installed, the pipe is free to move slightly within the insulation. If you have your water lines run through the attic space you definitely want the cold water lines insulated, otherwise as the pipe cools from the cold water moisture will condensate on the pipe and drip down on your ceiling causing water damage the same as a leak.

vesfl... oh that's nice, I'm glad he liked the photos... 'The GG' is one of those I mistakenly put inside the obelisk, but you can get away with it as you see, but it's a little awkward to train up the middle, which is why I recommend putting it outside.. I also have another rose on that obelisk outside of it, so they share the space, although can't see it much in that photo.. some of my obelisks for this season, I've got no less than 3 roses all planted outside, which I shall entwine together, but obviously this is for the adventurous [read insane] gardener. Your friend can make do with just one rose... I like 'The GG' very much, lovely scent, nice first flush, and continues to bloom until late... Oh, you asked about the training, well I just let The GG go straight up really, it's quite an upright grower fortunately, not too thorny and troublefree, but the other rose on the outside, I'm training it around the structure, twirling it around upwards as it goes...

oh gosh that's gorgeous...what a lovely summerhouse or whatever you use it for.. I'd love that, and the pergola too... I can see what you mean... I've never grown GJ as a climber so I'm not certain of her abilities to reach, but certainly the top of those posts should be attainable.. I'm not sure how much further she would go across the top.. Of course if that was mine I would get carried away.. and this is what I would do.. I see you have another post on the left close to the grass... I would remove about 18 inches of grass all along from left to right in front of the paved area, and right where that post is I would plant a 'Mme Alfred Carriere' rose or some other of one's choice.. I would infill the whole length of the strip with annuals or low perennials, whatever.. otherwise that post is going to waste and I'd want to make use of it with another rose... Love the boulders too...