David Austin's site lists the roses that do best in hot sun (see the link below--scroll down on that page). I don't know if he hasn't gotten around to classifying his newer roses or not, but most of them are not on the list. Abe Darby is, however. The only one that I grow on that list is Molineux and July and August here are often 100 degrees or higher, so I guess that might qualify as hot. Molineux does fine through most of hot July as long as I don't forget to water it. However, a few weeks into August, and it tends to give up struggling against the heat and goes semi-dormant, waiting for the cooler autumn weather to return. While some Austins get fried edges in the strong sun, others aren't that much affected--Molineux being one of them, although there have been occasional days when its blooms get wilted in the sun. Usually that means they need a drink. By the way, I do not find that my Austins need noticeably more water than my other roses, but that may be because I don't grow GC which some claim is a waterhog. On the other hand, my Austins definitely do not like missing their watering when it gets that hot. so just water regularly. That said, many Austins prefer some afternoon shade -- to look their best. Kate Here is a link that might be useful: Austins for hot weather

Thanks Dan for the info, unfortunatly, blaze and new dawn both bloom on old wood. Golden Showers looks like a nice hardy climber though, and it blooms on new and old wood. Not sure if I would want yellow though- If anyone else has a few more suggestions for a new wood blooming climbing rose? I have been seeing "Shade Tolerant" in the descriptions of some roses (including the Golden Showers) and I figured that would mean they can withstand part shade. I was hoping this meant it could still do well with 3/4 hours of direct sun a day- can anyone clear this up for me? How tolerant is "shade tolerant" when it comes to roses? And of course, if anyone is growing a rose bush/climber/polyantha in part sun, I would love to know which kind it is. Thanks!

Welcome, Erica! I garden in Sacramento, which has a Mediterranean climate, too. It can be intensely hot here, although it cools down in the evenings, thank goodness. Some rose blossoms scorch in the summer heat, particularly red or semi-double flowers, but adequate water really does help. Yellows often bleach out. I wouldn't worry about dappled light in the winter, or the intensity of the summer sun. There are many roses that will do just fine, and keep pumping out the blooms throughout the summer. Teas, chinas, tea-noisettes and hybrid musks are all reliable, virtually evergreen and in frequent, if not constant, bloom. I work with two different gardens - one is a collection of old found roses in the Sacramento cemetery's Historic Rose Garden. The soil there is sandy and well-drained, and there is room for the roses to get huge. At home, soil is silt/clay, and there is much less room. You can look at Helpmefind roses and see what roses are in each garden (Sacramento Historic Rose Garden and Anita's garden), and ask me about how specific varieties are doing. Polyanthas do well too - Perle d'Or and Marie Pavie are particular favorites. Chinas are good. Some of the early Hybrid Teas, such as Mme. Caroline Testout and Kauserin Auguste Viktoria, are in nearly constant bloom. The Austins are a mixed bag. They tend to grow much taller than English sources say, and the flowers may not be as big or intensely colored. For example, I've seen William Shakespeare 2000 in New Zealand, France and Sacramento - it was drop-dead gorgeous everywhere but here, where it is much smaller and washed-out. Enjoy. Looking forward to hearing about your choices, and how your garden develops! Anita

Welcome, Meredith. So glad you're not lurking anymore!! Ditto on what Luxrosa said. Your teas will take all the sun Mother Nature can hand out -- as long as they have water! If the soil dries out in the heat, it will get warmer than their roots find comfortable, and they will drop leaves, stop blooming and not re-leaf without more water. At least that's what they did in my garden which is sandy soil. Since you're already growing OGRs (which ones?) you must know what works in your garden. I just needed to make that caveat. Water is more important than anything else in my experience. Maggie - I used to have her. I would put her in the back of a bed with smaller roses/plants in front. She didn't keep a lot of leaves, got some BS and didn't bloom much in summer here which, I think, is what long-caned Bourbons do - bloom mostly in spring and fall. People said it would easily be 6-8' tall and almost as wide. Mrs. B.R. Cant - Another BIG rose. Easily 8' across in a few years - at least here anyway. Mons. Tillier - He will grow big quickly. First tall and then about the 3rd year get wide. At 3 yrs mine was 6x6 in a widening v-shape which makes it easy to get your companions somewhat under his spread. Mme. Berkeley - I don't have. Mme. Lombard - just planted in October. Clytemnestra - I don't have. Felicia - I used to have this beautiful rose. The first season I had it in all-day sun. She was very unhappy. Moved it to eastern sun from 10am until 4PM. Didn't fare any better. I took it out, and if I were you, I'd try it in morning sun only maybe until 1PM. I don't have any situations like that so I couldn't keep her. Buff Beauty - I don't grow it. Bermuda Kathleen - I don't grow it, Bridesmaid - I don't grow it. Le Vesuve - Full sun all day is great. I can't tell you how big it will get. I'll just say huge. Mine is in a 6' diameter bed - 2-1/2 years old with growth beyond the bed and about 4-1/2' tall. I've started nipping him back, trying to keep him near 6' across. Don't know how long this will work. Jackie in CA has one that is way beyond huge and 90 yrs old! I would imagine this rose can easily get 10' across. Don't know about placement. I do think Maggie and Levesuve might look good together because LeVesuve has near-red buds. Do you have a big front yard?? All the best to you and your garden! Sherry