Great idea, congrats for taking this on! I've been composting coffee grounds and food waste from an office building, about 5 to 10 lb per day, for 10 years now and will offer some suggestions.

I raelly think with that kind of volume worm bins would be a hassle, but that's JMHO. If you put a bottomless bin on the ground, worms will come up into it on their own and leave if the conditions don't meet their needs. Including ones you may put in there. Me, I would do a regular compost bin or two and leave it at that. Unless you have a lot of space to hide this, you will want an enclosed bin like a black plastic one. With a heavy amount of food waste, you'll need some dry browns to put in after each day's deposit - such as leaves, wood shavings or sawdust, shredded paper, etc. - to soak up the liquids and the excess nitrogen. Also, when the bin gets full, you'll need to turn it over into a second bin which can be the same kind or a chicken wire or pallet bin to finish for a few months. Doesn't need to be enclosed against critters because by that time it's partially composted and no one is interested.

Keep us posted on how this works out!

A purchased compost bin can be very pricey, although some places (to encourage people to compost their waste) offer free bins, but you can also spend about as much buying the material to construct elaborate bins. Spending some time with the composting tutorial at the link below may be of some help, but a bin, if needed, can be as simple as 12 feet of fence fabric or as elaborate as a 6 bin system that I have seen from one of Prince Charles farms.

Here is a link that might be useful: Florida on line composting

Depends on:

1) your yard
2) your available materials, and the neighbors
3) how much compost you need
4) how much appearance matters
5) any phyicial problems, such as backs

My suggestions would be:
Stay away from expensive purchased products, they are the most likely to disappoint.

Cheap and Simple bin, compost fork ($30-150), compost thermometer (as cheap as $15).

I would not have quessed Maine was Zone 6, which is also my zone. I prefer the cheap mesh bins, of which I have seven. Thirteen feet of 1/4" or 1/2" mesh hardware cloth 24" high. Costs about $15 where I get it cut. I'd pay the extra for stainless if it were not mail order only.

pallet bin. digging bar for fluffing.(no turning required)
worms will show up (after a while)
composting is as easy as piling it up and letting it rot.
IMHO make your bin first, fill it up, keep it wet (piles stop working when they dry out) when it gets hot, start adding food. if your compost is cold and smaller than 15X15x15 (not a normal home composting size, 3x3x3 is the average norm) rodents might figure out where it is and if you forget to cover your food waste with carbonish stuff (ie throw food on top and leaving it exposed ) rodents might figure out where it is.
don't worry, just compost.

ialbtc

I'd start with a chicken wire ring, because its cheap and easy. After you get addicted to composting,(which is usually inevitable), then you might want to build more of structure, pallet bins or fence panel bins.

You will need paper and carbon stuff to balance out the food/nitrogen stuff. I use shredded junk mail for my carbon source (its something most people have in excess).

I think purchased bins are often way too expensive for what they provide.

You can do what I do which is put together a cinder block enclosure (about 3' x 3' x 2'), fill it with horse manure and autumn leaves. Purchase some composting worms and put them in the enclosure. Bury your garbage in rotation around the bin. Very easy. The worms will quickly populate the bin and chow down on everything. And it only looks like a cinderblock box filled with horse manure. No garbage is visible or smell-able.

There are many local units of government in Massachusetts (MA) that offer free or reduced proce bins to residence, but they are usually too small to be of much value. While chicken fencing may be less expensive I have found that it does not hold up as well as the 2 x 4 welded wire fencing.

Agree with Robertz6 - Depends on factors yet unknown.
I harvest about 2,000+ pounds of finished compost/month.
All with pitchfork, flat shovel and garden rake.
Sounds to me like you are in the beginning stages.
Figure out what you want to accomplish, first...
Wood bins of any style need rebuilding, eventually.
Rotating bins don't work well due to lack of volume.
So recommend that you build two cinderblock bins 4'x4'x4'.
Two of them - side by side (into which to turn the pile).
Lay a 2"x10" form of pressure treated lumber FIRST.
Lumber for sides should extend 5' to the front (not 4').
Screw 2"x6" lumber vertical @ front center of middlle side.
2"x4" screwed vertical on the 2"x10" on the end sides.
To hold the front slats on the bins, for easy access.
Triangle piece of 2"x10" to stabilize vertical lumber.
You'll need to buy 26 half-blocks to build it correctly.
Block bins are no-maintenance, for your lifefime.
And costs less than one quality rotating bin w/shipping.
Stagger the blocks correctly, then fill holes with sand.
Recommend a 6" sloping-to-front dirt floor to the bin.
Dig a trench in front of both bins about 6" deep,
Sloping from sides, to front of the middle center.
Dig a 12" hole in center the size of a 5-gal. bucket.
Cover floors with 10-mil black plastic, including trench.
Cut plywood 'floors' to fit over the plastic, to trench.
For ease of shoveling the bottom 6" of compost to harvest.
Yes, the wood floor will need replacing every year or two.
Fill one bin with compost, watering-in each layer.
I use herbivore manure layered with grass clippings/hay.
Pile will need to be 2'+ thick to heat much. 36"+ is best.
Must attain critical biomass (compression) to heat high.
Read-up about thermophyllic fungi and what they eat.
Water will collect in the trench. Put it back on the pile.
Recirculated water becomes concentrated compost 'tea'.
The 'tea' is as good as your compost - if used fresh.
Full of nutrients (N,P,K+Micro) and microorganisms.
Collect 'tea' when watering-in each layer when turning it.
Pour it directly around trees & shrubs. Dilute for indoor.
Screen 'tea' to use as foliar feeding with a sprayer.
Purchase a 20" compost thermometer.
Purchase a 48" x 42" chain-link fence gate.
Place it on two 2"x4" lumber across the open bin to turn.
Turn the pile at 100F-105F as it cools down.
Place new materials/scraps in bottom of empty bin.
Then turn old pile on top of the collected materials.
Fence gate 'screens' pile material for high aeration.
Microorganisms assimilate oxygen and respire CO2.
CO2 buildup will kill them before the food supply runs out.
Remember to put slats in both bins, to keep 'critters' out.
Gate will keep 'em from getting into the bin from top.
Use diluted black molasses with pet food to heat new turn.
Recommend you view the following link for more info:
http://www.compostinfo.com/tutorial/index.htm
Happy Composting