Eddie, You're right to be concerned that the peat moss will exacerbate any pre-existing acidic soil if that's what you have or - at best - inordinately shift the balance and necessitate increased amendments of lime. A soil test, as you said, is a must-do, first step. I understand that you have to start somewhere in building up beds (been there/done that), and I empathize w/the need for mere "bulk" of fill ingredients like readily-available peat & vermiculite. They are, however, of no nutritive value to your soil or the microorganisms therein, which ultimately are the major supporters of your plant's health...not additional fertilizers. It's just too sterile an environment and is contrary to the primary paradigm of Organic Gardening: Feeding the soil and not the plants. . By far the most beneficial soil amendment is compost and the most available to the microherd. Initiating a compost pile would be a logical first step (even pre soil testing) toward an organic goal. But, here again...what if you don't have an existing pile? Organic bags of composted chicken manure, bat guano, worm castings or mushroom compost can be obtained and added in lieu. Kelp meal (probably my personal most oft used ingredient even in addition to my well-aged compost piles) is an excellent soil conditioner and creates a hospitable atmosphere for all other amendments and is especially kindly to transplants. :) Alfalfa meal is natural all around fert and soil amendment of roughly 3-2-2. Fish emulsion can be found completely deodorized. Alaska® brand, for instance, is OMRI approved and odorless. Liquid kelp is also readily available online (and lucked into at some local retailers) and simply smells of fresh seaweed. Liquid bonemeal is manufactured under the brand name of Aggrand® by Aggrene Products. Remember that newly planted seeds need no fert. All necessary food for their germination and initial growth is stored in the germplasm of that seed. I don't usually begin a diluted fish/kelp emulsion program till they've developed at least one full set of true leaves. Because I rarely measure (you should see me in the kitchen) I mix a part of peat, a part of perlite, a part of kelp meal and a big part of compost as my basic potting mix. Sometimes, when my compost availability is scarce, I'll "water down" my mix w/some purchased soiless mix. I like Pro-Mix in that pinch circumstance. For containers which notoriously leach more nutrients because of water demands, I'll add a spoonful of a granular organic fert. I've been organic gardening for nearly 25 years, and I'm still careening around that "learning curve" of which you spoke . :) Bottom line is (1)Don't sweat the details and (2) A good compost pile can accommodate a myriad of gardening problems: soil-wise, disease-wise, insect-wise, weather-wise and environmental-wise. Compost is your friend. Embrace the compost! And brew a tea of it to spray on your plants when they need a boost several times throughout the season. But not when they're under stress. Compost teas (as other brews) are most advantageous when used as preventatives as opposed to fixatives. Sorry if some of this came off as Preaching According to the Gospel of Organics. It's just that I've been in your bierkenstocks and wanted so desperately to do the right OG thing, leaving the lightest imprint on the earth and enabling the health of my own micro-environmental community. It's not really as complicated as you may think. Basically it's just following your gut. That...and recognizing that next to compost's rank in organic hierarchy...duct tape comes in a close second. :) Best of luck, Eddie. It's great to know that another gardener has found their way over to the bright, non-chemically-polluted side of the road. Linda (And you thought you were verbose! Hah!) Here is a link that might be useful: Aggrene - Liquid Products

Michael - anaerobic conditions don't cause ammonia production, it is just that it can occur under either aerobic or anaerobic conditions. pH will influence the release of ammonia. The lower the pH (more acidic) the more of any ammonia that is produced will exist in the ammonium ion form rather than free ammonia. The relative amounts of those two forms is an equilibrium that is pH dependent. Looked at another way, ammonia is a base, and its production will neutralize acids in the forming compost, increasing the pH. The principle cause of high ammonia levels in composting, under either aerobic or anaerobic conditions, is high nitrogen levels (low C:N ratios). In some cases, this is sought. Producers of mushroom substrate purposely use very high N mixes, sometimes via the addition of urea, to produce a high N compost as a base for the growing medium. Typically their mixtures will have a C:N ratio in the range of 10-20. Some recommended formulations are published by Penn State University, see link below. Note the point under V., Phase I is considered complete when as soon as the raw ingredients become pliable and are capable of holding water, the odor of ammonia is sharp and the dark brown color indicates carmelization and browning reactions have occurred ... Here is a link that might be useful: Substrate Preparation for White Button Mushrooms

Anyone interested in dispelling fertilizing myths should read this article below. This experimenter proves that: "Weak stems are not the result of too much nitrogen. In fact stems can be strengthen by fertilizing with additional nitrogen." My experience has been the same. I use cow manure compost and a fertilize additionally once a week. I get thick strong stems. Here is a link that might be useful: Mid-Island Dahlia society

I guess I never thought of it as "pork stock" but boiling a ham bone is just that. A favorite soup is boiled ham bone, cabbage, onion, and a couple jalapeno/serreno peppers.... high taste, high fiber, and low cal. I get a ham from work at winter solstice every year... being single that makes a good 3-4 pots of soup with a couple sandwiches on the side. Grandma's traditional christmas gift to us is a ham... another 10 lbs on top of my work ham. In general I'm eating soup until the first of April. Almost all bean based soups have some pork broth.... sometimes I cheat and use a couple drops of liquid smoke rather then meat. Only use pork with large bones. I boiled pork chops with sourkraut one time... while delicious it was filled with the small bones. About time I made pork with kraut and taters again. Now I'm hungry! : ) lyra