The ill effects of planting too deep would show up down the line not right away. If the top of the root flare is at soil level you might be ok although higher is better. The main issue with telephone poles sticking out of the ground is that the cells above the root flare were not meant to be underground and eventually can rot, girdling the trunk. That doesn't happen in a couple of months. Are you sure about the watering? Have you performed the Ken Soil Moisture Test (insert finger to second knuckle)?

tj

If I had loamy or sandy soil I wouldn't think twice and would just lift them out.

Problem is I have the heavy clay soil (as you know) and I'm afraid I may cause more damage when its not necessary to plant them higher if the top of the rootflare is at ground level. By the way these are all clay rootballs planted in clay soil.

I was also under the impression that planting too deep is an issue that shows up later in life. Its just odd that they all have droopy leaves. The only common varible is that they are planted closer to ground level than any other trees I've planted.

If anything they might have too much water but I thought leaves turn yellow or wilt vs become droopy.

Several Northwest Ohio communities have changed their planting specifications

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as far as i know.. OH is the clay capital of the world ... and i am not talking a bout the good clay ... as such.. i would read anything an OH resource has to say about clay ... as relevant PERHAPS.. only to their horrible clay ...

just about everyone i know.. in OH ... plants only half of the rootball in the native soil.. and the other half above.. then mounds over some good soil ...

sooooo .. i would take this instruction with a grain of salt.. unless you can verify it applies to your soil ...

i would prefer you talk to your local Ag office... and get there opinion of how it may or may not apply to your region ...

as far as i know.. it might be spot on for your region.. i am just saying.. it might not ...

in my sand.. everything goes in at ground level.. or above... if i mess it up.. its just not an issue.. as my soil is extremely forgiving ... and if it ends up too deep.. i can flood the area .. and in spring or fall .. simply pull the plant up an inch or so .. as the sand turns basically into quicksand ... bet you clay peeps cant do that.. lol ...

so make sure any reference you come across is applicable to your application

ken

Agreed. In the clay soil it is very important not to plant too deep. I usually plant the flare just above the ground with good results. I have some tulip trees and a maple just going crazy out at the old, clay-ridden house.

Most of Ohio is clay...Especially up here in NE Ohio. And you're right, it's not the good clay! It is the suffocating, horrible, clay.

Silver linden grows great here. At my old house, there were several volunteers that were over 60 feet high already.

Ken, not all soil in Ohio is clay. Right along the lake front, it tends to be very sandy. I live a few blocks from the lake and I am blessed/cursed with sandy soil that dries out way too fast!!!!!!!

Took your suggestion and called the local ext. office.

Bascially he said you definitely want the top of the flare to be ABOVE not AT ground level. As we discussed further he stated it is promising that I exposed the root flare to determine its at ground level. With that said he did not recommend replanting because the trees are stressed as is and I may do more harm than good because of the weight and soil type.

Lastly he mentioned the droopy leaves are more than likely caused by a limited root system but was surprised because we've had decent rains. All I can do at this point is water as necessary and be patient. The good news is that I have a 5 year warranty on 4 of the trees...I bought into the root stimulator but didn't use much of it. Figured what is $50 to extend the warranty out for four trees ranging from 3' to 10'.

In the end he went off on a tangent and said trees getting planted too deeply is serious widespread issue and still can't get over why nurseries still instruct customers to leave the burlap and wire cages on.

Would think the bottom of the root flare should be level with the existing ground. Sounds like you need to remove an inch or two of soil from around the trunk, probably for about a foot or so from the tree.

How do you guage planting depth off the bottom of the flare?

I have a Magnolia in which I had no choice but pull away 2" of soil in a 5' perimeter. Althought planting a tree too deep means the roots get girdlied underground, I can at least see the rootflare now.

"How do you gauge planting depth off the bottom of the flare?"

Just plant so that the top of the highest root (that should be the bottom of the root flare) is at or slightly above ground level. If you're planting a b&b or container-grown tree, find that top root before planting. Don't assume the root is near the top of the soil in the rootball or the container. Also, don't dig your planting hole deeper than the rootball. The hole should be at least twice the diameter of the rootball, but no deeper than the rootball.

Rather than debate the planting depth of your trees, take a good look at the roots as they leave the crown.

In the 2nd image of your other thread, I see a number of dead roots. The image is at http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/trees/msg0614251219677.html?1

Sorry, but that doesn't bode well.

Here is a link that might be useful: look at 2nd image -- many roots are dead

How do you know the roots are dead?

Those aren't my trees, I used them as an illustration as I know those are planted at an acceptable depth.