Will these roses survive bs in a no spray garden?
vettin
14 years ago
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sherryocala
14 years ago
olga_6b
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Brite Eyes a disappointment (how often should I spray it for BS?)
Comments (12)Well indeed but... it IS marketed as "disease resistant". I did LOADS of research both online and locally to try and discover which roses might work for a newbie in a bad BS zone, and this one looked promising. Not only the "official" reputation, but also a large nursery I spoke to in this region when I was trying to find it last year recommended it for that reason. BTW, this is the info on the starroses page "The most blackspot resistance climber we have ever introduced! Brite Eyes(TM) is another breaktrough rose bred by the famous Knock Out® Breeder, William Radler. It has an amazing salmon pink color and a pleasing fragrance. The compact growth habit makes it perfect for smaller gardens. The first of many winter hardy and disease resistant climbers we will introduce in the coming years." But, it would appear that for whatever reason it's not as disease-resistant as its KO cousins. I can understand a marketing department wanting to jump on the KO bandwagon, but if a plant piggybacks on that reputation and then DOESN'T do well... I wonder how that will play out? ::muses: In any case, my primary goal right now is to try and get it through its first year and hope that it starts to cope. All suggestions to nurse it along welcome!...See MorePros and cons of no-spray/organic rose gardening
Comments (123)Sandy, regarding the holy&berries, its usually not only spraying, but a whole set of things in the city environment. Most plants which are not self pollinating, need pollinators. However, in the city environment bees often are exterminated as a pest if the swarm happens to land somewhere by chance, also people tend to destroy bee nests if they find them somewhere in their property, instead of calling a bee keeper so safely remove it. Also usually there are not that many bee keepers close to the city, so no honey bees in flying distance from the city. In the city bumble bees are important pollinator, but again, in the urban gardens they lack habitat and food to really thrive (especially since bumble bees rarely make nest in same location next year). Even those few flowering weeds that somehow manage to appear in the lawns, tend to be herbicided and weeded out fairly quickly. Lawns, paved gardens, flower-less ornamental plants, all of that make any sane bee (or any other nectar feeding insect) to fly the other direction. Nectar feeding insects need continuous supply of it from different plants for the variety of diet, so you have to have something different blooming at any day of the season to really feed them well. In bee opinion wild flower mix seeds for 2$ are way better choice than roses and other fancy, but low on nectar plants for 200$. Also, in some climates bumble-bees are even more important pollinator, because they fly in more cold and wet conditions than the regular honey bees (or any other pollinator, due to their fur). Hence if you have an orchard and very cold wet weather when your orchard is blooming, you rely solely on bumble bees to pollinate it. Bumble bees in their turn need fallen tree logs, meadows, turfs or even just clumps of dried grass to establish their hives, so heavy cultivation and even tidy rose gardens are not really good for them. Also, many birds and insects like to use second hand nests for themselves, for example bumble bees like to use old mouse nests for their nests, so if the mouse population is exterminated aggressively, that also influences the well being of the bumble bees. It is possible to provide special hives for bumble bees though, but again, not everyone likes a bumble bee hive in their garden....See MoreI need help - please help newbie with organic spray for bs
Comments (10)First, do some research on the available chemical fungicides. If environmental concerns are your top priority, then understand that many chemical fungicides are less damaging to the environment than are many organic ones. Most chemical fungicides are also much less potentially damaging to the person spraying than are even the mildest of insecticides. If you wear proper personal protection at both during mixing and applying, then your risk of contacting enough of the chemical to cause yourself harm is rendered exceedingly minute, and this is for chemicals who have a lower toxicity profile to begin with. I've found that BannerMaxx combined with mancozeb will give you 95-99% control of BS, and this is in a climate much hotter and humid for longer than most, except for Florida. If, after fully informing yourself of the choices available and the consequences of each one of those, you choose organic methods to control disease, be aware that the first principal of organic gardening is to get rid of the disease magnets. That may mean elmininating most of your hybrid teas, as they are not really suited to growing organically in most of the East. Concentrate your energies on the roses that have at least some resistance to disease and your results will be far more pleasing. You must be willing to accept some damage to your roses as a total gardening philosophy. Growing roses organically doesn't mean you just substitute products and achieve the identical spotless results. Also be aware that roses with poorly controlled disease are far weaker going into winter and have a much greater chance of not surviving even mild winters. That again makes your cultivar choices of primary importance. The most effective organic fungicide that I've personally trialed for preventative spraying is horticultural sulpher. It must be applied at least weekly, and during times of rapid growth like in early spring, sometimes twice weekly in order to coat the most rapidly growing foliage. It had an effectiveness rate of 40% in my trial, meaning that Angel Face, a rose that will defoliate 100% with no spraying, will retain 40% of it's foliage if sprayed regularly with sulpher. On a more resistant cultivar, of course the retained foliage % would be higher, but I find ANgel Face a good "lab mouse" with which to judge a spray's effectivity. Sulpher has a tendancy to burn at temps above 86°, which is highly problematic in my location as we regularly have many many summer days with temps above that. None of the baking soda and horticultural oil formulations that you may hear regularly touted had any effectivity approaching even 10%. Neem oil, while a decent enough insecticide, burnt leaves badly and also wasn't terribly effective. Copper is is good, but it burns worse than sulpher and can build up to toxic levels in the soil and is far more dangerous to the human than is sulpher. The more folkloric remedies of milk and cornmeal aren't even worth the bytes......See MoreModern roses for a no spray high humidity Southern Garden
Comments (25)Two roses that I have in South Palm Beach County are Outta the Blue and Regatta. Both of these put on LARGE displays of flowers Outta the Blue smells divine and is a Floribunda. Regatta says it is a hybrid team, but I do get sprays like a floribunda. Neither seem to have much disease, but I do have to spray for insects. I have lots and lots of chili thrips and sri lanka weevil. Then my neighbors have a white flies! GRRR. So I have to stay after the insects in the heat of the summer.... I also have Beverly which seems to be doing quite well though I have only had it a year, but that being said it did go through July, August, and September in Florida.... That is doing pretty good. McCarnteny does really well. Nice and healthy. The weevils do love him though. He gets big here in Florida and you can get a nice bouquet. Another favorite, (I am getting a second if I can find one) is Gentle Giant. Long stems for cut flowers. Puts out new roses constantly and is healthy for me....See Moresammy zone 7 Tulsa
14 years agocecily
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