Yeah, there is all sorts of "information" about worms and what not to feed them, most of it just hogwash. Worms, like the compost pile itself, will eat just about anything that ever showed a sign of life. I give mine all the citrus and onions that I have as waste. Never heard a complaint. I've given them large amounts, small amounts,mixed onions and citrus, coffee grounds, bread, meat scraps, cat food, garlic...well you get the picture. enjoy your compost piles and your worm bins steve

It's not very clear from your post what you are trying to do :-) Let me start by clarifying a few things and we can take it from there. All lime is does is neutralize or raise the pH an acidic soil. Depending on the type of lime used it can also supply a couple of nutrients that may or may not be lacking, but it does nothing in the way of supplying nitrogen. If you still live in the Portland area, your soil is most likely slightly to moderately acidic as are most of the soils in the PNW. Except for lawns and a few specific plants, the vast majority of plants will grow best in a slightly to moderately acidic soil so you may not need to lime at all. Any large tree will draw nutrients out of the soil as they have wide spreading root systems that out-compete smaller plants for any available nutrients and any soil moisture. This is one of the reasons it is often hard to get plants to grow within the root zone of these big trees. But black walnuts also pose some other issues - they emit a chemical through their roots and leaves (juglone) that makes it difficult for certain other plants to thrive or even survive. One needs to pay careful attention to any plants selected to grow in this area and makke sure they are compatible and not subject to the juglone. Tomatoes are noted for being very hard to grow close to black walnuts. And the rot you describe sounds like blossom end rot, which is usually associated with uneven watering practices while the fruit is forming. It can also be affected by a lack of calcium in the soil. You can purchase products that address this but even watering is really the key. And you need to make sure that you are growing your tomatoes well away from the possible influence of the black walnut. Your soil probably is clay-based - much of the NW is. Adding good quantities of compost or other organic matter will help to loosen the soil, improve structure, improve drainage and add fertility. NW soils also tend to be nitrogen deficient and compost will help with that as well. Otherwise, to determine what other nutrients may or may not be needed, you might want to consider a soil test. And this will clarify exactly what pH you are working with and whether or not you need to lime. OSU no longer supplies soil tests but they can direct you to a good lab. Here is a link that might be useful: OSU extension service

This discussion seems to have strayed a bit from the original topic. I apologize to the OP for the apparent hijacking......it was not intentional, but sometimes one thing leads to another and is worthy of further discussion :-) Tom, I've made my thoughts on many of Ms. Chalker Scott's opinions pretty clear on this forum (and others) a number of times. I am not a big fan for various reasons. But I would not necessarily consider her 'myth busting' articles junk science. What is contained in these articles is a brief synopsis of her conclusions in response to these topics and yes, not documented by citations or attributions. But that doesn't mean the research hasn't been done or the scientific evidence doesn't exist......it is just not appropriate for that degree of detail to be included in a master gardener newsletter or extension service bulletin :-) But she is rather well-published in various scientific journals and has authored or co-authored a number of peer reviewed papers. For the most part, she's done her work. In some cases, I and others don't always agree with the conclusions reached, but the science is there. As to the allelopathic effects of western red cedar (Thuja plicata), quite a lot of research has been done. Allelopathy is quite the 'hot' topic in various horticultural circles due to the potential of these natural plant chemicals to effect plant growth and thus be useful as natural herbicides. And of course, forestry management organizations are very interested in this phenomenon as regards its implication in affecting or perpetuating healthy forest systems. I'm not going to take the time do the research for you but it's out there. Much of the online material is available only by accessing paid subscription scientific sites like springerlink but there are some accessible publications. And various scientific journals and texts are available at the library at CUH. And the literature does support her contentions - there is virtually NO scientific documentation of WRC being allelopathic. E.L. Rice, who has authored perhaps the most conclusive treatise to date on allelopathy, states a slight effect from WRC litter but no indication of the roots or other tree parts having this property in any significant concentrations. And while there is far less documentation of research conducted on mulches specifically, it stands to reason that if the tree itself does not demonstrate allelopathic properties, the mulch is hardly likely to. I think a lot of the confusion that arises regarding the "toxic" properties of various mulches has to do with how wood mulches act in a garden setting. And the nitrogen unavailability or tie-up they can create. Fine or shredded bark mulches or sawdusts can create a nitrogen imbalance at the soil surface. This is not an issue with established plants with well-developed root systems but can have an effect on the development and growth of seedlings or shallow rooted plants, as in many veggies and seasonal crops or plants. And there is a far greater chance of incorporation of the wood product into the soil with the necessary cultivation of most vegetable gardens, which will cause far greater and more widespread nutrient unavailability. I would not recommend this type of mulch for those situations for that reason. But not because the mulch itself is toxic or poisonous.

I'm also new this year to organic lawn care. I applied CGM in the early spring and was disappointed to see a number of weeds pop up soon after. However, in general, my lawn has been pretty healthy and weed free all summer, despite the terrible drought conditions, so I'll be keeping up with the program! I've read a certain amount of speculation that CGM works less like an anti-emergent but rather builds the health of the lawn so well that weeds can't thrive. Either way, it seems to be working for me.