i NEVER fertilize a tree ... unless a soil test indicates something is lacking from the soil ...

a mulch ring big enough to keep the nut on the lawnmower and with the weedwhip far enough away to avoid damage ...

it will take a tree that size.. 3 to 5 years to become 'established' .. to replace the roots which were cut off with the spade ... and during that time.. if it leafs out .. i am happy ... its alive ...

during this time period.. i would not be all that concerned with its growth rate.. nor the size of its leaves... as long as it is growing.. and has leaves ...

mulch it.. water PROPERLY.. letting it nearly dry in between waterings.. insert finger in soil to figure out how that all works in your soil ...

and stop trying to love it to death ... there is a greater chance that you will injure it with too much love.. rather than simply making sure it is watered properly ... IMHO ....

good luck

ken

answers:
1.) cease & desist w/ fertilizer, root stimulator & "goodies".
2.) The farther the better. Keep mulch at least 6" away from the trunk tho.
3.) Moist, well drained is best.
4.) These will show varying size leaves during different stages of establishment and with varying nutrients in the soil.
5.) handful of acorns = good. bucketful of acorns = probably bad news.
6.) Nevermind the leaves. Keep the roots moist and watered well during establishment.
7.) Can't answer because i don't understand what's going on.

Here are a couple of pics of the oak.

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{{gwi:369258}}

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LOL.
That's not a northern red oak!
It looks like a white oak.

Whatever it is, it looks good and only needs adequate water at this point. I'd extend the mulch out to be twice as big as what you have it. You don't need that competition from the grass in the future.

Nice choice and good luck.

Another thing strikes me as odd.
Did a tree farm or nursery sell this as a 4.5" tree because unless you've got some special filter on your camera to make people look skinnier than they are, that doesn't look anywhere close to 4.5"

I guess im a complete idiot musicalperson; you are absolutely correct that it isnt a red oak. After looking on the internet and comparing the two trees it is blatantly obvious that it is a white oak. After checking on the internet it has also now become baware to me that you measure the diameter of the trunk 4.5' up from the ground and not 6" up from the ground which is how it was measured when purchased.

Also after reading the differences between red and white oaks i am sadden to see that white oaks dont like compacted clay soil which is pretty much what we have in our yard. Thank you for pointing this all out and i appreciate you laughing at my misfortune as well, real classy of you...

I wasn't laughing at your misfortune I guess you just got the wrong idea.
It's not really misfortune since white oak is a better tree. Repeat: IS a better tree.
Does grow in compacted soil and is urban tolerant. Unfortunately though, compared to red oak, it is more difficult to transplant.

What I was laughing at is how things are mislabeled and the green industry seems to not really care or know what they're doing (watch me get yelled at for saying that now).
You're not incorrect about your measurements when it comes to nursery stock. That is measured lower down. It didn't look like 4.5" caliper to me where it is measured which is why I asked if you were sold this tree as a 4.5" red oak. Because if you were, your tree dealer got some 'splainin to do.

If this is the first year just be happy that your tree is green throughout. Next year it'll really start to fill in and he third year it'll grow by leaps and bounds. Good Luck! White oaks are great trees and they seem to grow just fine here in the NC red clay.

Bumping this up for Ken et al to add some input.

Yes, I'd rather have a Quercus alba myself as well.