***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black?"*** That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. And in most machines built in the last 40 years or so, the negative/black is the ground conductor. But you must "cling to" every word of the description. "Negative", "Black", "Ground"! Each word must be considered as a separate and individual criterion when you are preparing to "put a tool" to the battery terminals. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. There are "generally accepted and recognized practices", but no REGULATIONS. Black is nearly universally used as the color (by OEMs) of the negative battery cable, Red for positive cable, but some OEMs might decide to use black cables for BOTH positive and negative conductors leading from the battery posts. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. ALSO, when you identify the negative post/cable of the battery......trace the cable to where it connects next. If the negative cable connects to the vehicle frame, chassis, or engine block....it is the GROUND conductor. This configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture. But, it makes sense to understand the relationship of "color vs. polarity vs. function" in a vehicle electrical system. IF the black cable is connected to the negative battery post at one end, and to the "vehicle ground" at the other end.........that is the only cable you need to remove from the battery in order to render the electrical system "inert" and safe to work on. Even that statement will have "limitations" if the vehicle has advanced electronics and engine/cab controls, but for MOST L&G tractors, it is the best, safest, practice. ................................................... Getting back to your Huskee. Before doing the next test, disconnect the GROUND cable from the battery. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. The black/blue pair will be removed but reconnected in this procedure. To further test whether the solenoid is defective (shorting inside the solenoid), if the first series of tests point in that direction, remove the mounting bolts of the solenoid (where solenoid mtg bracket fastens to chassis/frame. Reconnect the black/blue pair of wires to their same chassis/frame bolt and secure with nut. Use some kind of non-metallic, electrically insulating material (suitable piece of cardboard, carpet, even an old sneaker will do) to set the solenoid on so it can't touch a grounded surface (chassis). Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Now, operate the ignition switch to the start position. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Don't expect the solenoid to operate during the test. Access to the solenoid on my Huskee is somewhat "difficult at best", but I find I can get a better view of it by going in from the right side floorboard/step area (front end of center console and backside of engine). I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above.

James, it seems as if your camellia is too tender for your area and easily suffers from environmental stress, that is when temperature and/or humidity levels change. Some camellias will react with bud drop when the temperature/humidity change a lot so, when bringing camellias indoors, I would suggest doing it when the exterior and interior temperature/humidity are similar so the plant does not into a form of transplant shock. It is important to always maintain soil humidity levels as constant as you can. That is, try not to have dry soil conditions in between waterings. Or try not to have periods of wet soil either. To help with that, manually test the soil humidity by inserting a finger into the soil to a depth of 4" (10.2cm) and water the same amount of water when it feels almost dry or dry). Test daily for 1-2 weeks and make notes of how often you have to water the soil in a calendar. After 1-2 weeks, then review the results and plan on watering as often as your notes said you did (that is, water every 3/4/5/6/etc days). Inside the home, the humidity should be similar to the ones that camellias are used to in their country of origin (think greenhouse-like levels). This is usually difficult to do (inside homes) during winter and in areas where air vents are close to the shrubs. You may need some form of humidifiers to help sometimes. To make the buds open earlier, you can also use gibberellic acid. Camellia flower buds can be forced into blooming earlier following treatment with gibberellic acid say, in early Fall. See the link below. Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Gibbing Camellias Article by the V.C.S.

This disease was discovered in 1941 in parts of the USA and Canada according to a site I found. Another site I found talks about using the disease to eliminate the invasive multiflora rose. It's a good idea as it crowds out native plants and could be a problem for farmers, but not so great an idea for us rose growers. This site is the one I've linked, It is chock full of other info, so if you use the find and replace mode by clicking and holding down the ctrl key on your keyboard, and then pressing the F key, then using the word "rosette" you will find the info. I wonder if that's why there is very little really to combat the disease on garden roses. Farmers have different needs than gardeners, and I do understand why they would want to eliminate multifloras, instead of get rid of the disease. After all land is money for them. It's like the wolves are good wolves are bad debate, good when it comes to thinning out diseased deer etc, and bad when they eat livestock. Of course the livestock is money in that case, but the wolves are native. No easy answers sometimes. Yeona, a rose lover, (love the length, variety and color of bloom) and hater, (hate the diseases, blackspot especially) in one. Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Rosette disease in the eastern two-thirds of the United States

X-10 is the oldest, least expensive and possibly least reliable option. There are dozens of different systems. That you have the house mostly wired rules out systems like Lightolier Compose PLC and Multitset Pro with Brilliance. Systems without control wires include Insteon, UPB, Zwave, Lutron Radio RA. You might look at Control4. You'd have to relocate multigang boxes to nearby closets or wherever possible to hide them and use keypads instead. Since you have the walls still open and can run control wires that would be the most capable & reliable type of system. Check out the other threads on X-10 and Lighting Control.