I tried to put it back together before I took the photos, and the pieces would not fit. Maybe if one put it together in the beginning and then used like some stronger tape or crazy glue, the pieces would not come to the point in which they cannot go back together. But, if you have to struggle with glue and tape, why not just buy the once piece construction to begin with? EM would not look as nice with a big piece of tape, and I am not even sure that would work. One would need to put the tape on before the plastic began to change shape. In the current state I don't think tape would help. Compost has a lot of heat and as it expands with the heat there is pressured placed upon the unit. It might work better as a storage unit for only dead leaves instead as a composter. But, if one is getting serious about composting you need more than one unit. The first bin is for your active composting, as you are starting the process. Then you want to move to a finishing bin in which you let it stay put until it finishes. Afterwards you need a "finished compost" bin to store "ready to go" compost so you have easy access when you need to use it. If you store the finished compost in a tub with a bottom, it won't keep well. It needs to drain off back into the ground. I want something I can remove whole thing by myself without any help. The round bin is easy to pull off completely, as long as it does not have a bottom screen. I don't know what "tool" if any would be used to put the segments together. It's a snap system in which there are little tabs that you line up into little grooves. That is actually one of the better units, I have seen them with three segmented body pieces instead of two. Those segments end up lying around the yard like garden junk, unused. The unneeded bottom screen doesn't come off easily. There are plastic bolts. That would require a screwdriver. I don't know if they will come off easily or break, but they do not look easy and you cannot turn them with your hand. I am against the bottom screen concept. On the plus side the door is working fine. The lid keeps raccoons out. But, you have to learn to turn it correctly or it's hard to get off. The Eco bin has a better designed lid, that is easier to removed, but a worse fitting door.I once asked a friend to drop an apple core in the EM bin and she said she could not get the lid off. It just takes practice. You have to turn it like a child proof pill bottle cap. If you buy a compost bin, you want it to last as long as possible. I hope that the designs of future bins will take these things into consideration.

"There is a small school of thought that compost needs to be in contact with the soil so that the bacteria that wil ldigest the material can get in there, but on the material you put into your compost pile are the bacteria that will digest that material, they do not come from the soil, which is why compost tumblers, sometimes, work." Compost tumblers sometimes work? Small school of thought? If there are bugs in your compost throw it away and make a pile right the next time? Get a good reliable soil test for your lasagna bed before planting in it? Once compost is finished it is finished, there is no such thing as compost turning to humus? Some of your recent comments are beginning to cause concern among your fellow members, and sending a mixed message to newer members causing untold confusion. Is everything all right over there? Do you need someone to come see about you? Some of us are starting to become worried Mayaosu said: "I've also read that the compost being in contact with the ground is best for allowing worms and other critters to do their work." That is one of the best ways that I know of to allow worms to get from the soil into a compost pile; and too, worms may be found within manure added to the compost pile, thus there is more than one way to skin a cat. All of my bins are in contact with the ground, but that is not to say building one on concrete, as my friend Bill Hill (among others) does with very good success should not be done. Both ways will give good results; it boils down to a matter of choice. As it relates to making air passages in the compost pile, this too is a matter of personal preference. While it is true a well-constructed compost pile will allow good air circulation, it too is possible to make air circulate better with the addition of air channels of some kind within the pile. In my experience, these air channels allow the compost pile to decompose further away from the center of the pile towards the corners, thus allowing less turning. Again, it is not necessary, but a lot of things are not necessary; however I like the results I get with the air passages in all my piles. The best I can do with Bermuda grass is pull it up when it invades the pile, staying on top of it is the best defense IMO. Building a compost pile is something like cutting grass. There are many ways to get the job done, it is the state of mind and results after the job is complete that are important Blutranes

dalton thanks for the pics. I have been talking to my husband about making a bin. When I saw your pallets I knew that was the bin for me. Maybe because I can get the pallets free and it does not look hard to do. Swanz that is a very nice bin my hats off to you. I tried to do that once and my daughter just laughed at the finished product and my family threw it out. Oh well so much for building things.

I doubt if wood boards will significantly slow a rat if it wants to get in. Rats can gnaw through metal, so wood isn't much of a deterrent. I had some kind of animal get in my compost late fall/early winter last year, so I just emptied the bin onto the garden and decided I was going to call it a lasagna bed.